2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

1989 GTUs =] oh happy day!

Old Jul 9, 2007 | 08:52 PM
  #26  
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mmmmm cool thanks guyz
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 12:09 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by F.C.3S
There is no difference ( if done right) with pulling a dent and using bondo/plastic from replacing a part.. Replacing this with a new door would cost so much more money and time it would be illogical.
New door??? Used dent free or only minor door dinged is less than $50 last time I priced one at a junk yard.

For $50 and an hour or so of work, I know what I would be using. No crappy bondo on my cars
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 12:51 AM
  #28  
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Many paintless dent removal people can work wonders if they can just get to the back side of the area. Doors are easy enough to get to. Fenders are too.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 02:39 AM
  #29  
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how much did you pay for that gtus? I to scored a gtus just last month, drag that thing all way from SF to LA.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 11:57 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Icemark
New door??? Used dent free or only minor door dinged is less than $50 last time I priced one at a junk yard.

For $50 and an hour or so of work, I know what I would be using. No crappy bondo on my cars
So if you had a dent in your rear quarter, would you replace the chassis before using bondo? Or would you cut/weld a new piece in before using bondo?

How about putty? Do you atleast block a car out with putty? Or are all of your cars just metal, primer and paint? Might as well just shoot clear over the metal.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 12:06 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Icemark
New door??? Used dent free or only minor door dinged is less than $50 last time I priced one at a junk yard.

For $50 and an hour or so of work, I know what I would be using. No crappy bondo on my cars
New dorr as in ''another'' door...of course.

And one hour for dismantling the door, sanding it, painting it, reassembling it and then putting it on and adjusting it?!

Wow, you're a fast worker

Use bondo.

Last edited by Spectator; Jul 10, 2007 at 12:24 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 05:26 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by micaheli
So if you had a dent in your rear quarter, would you replace the chassis before using bondo? Or would you cut/weld a new piece in before using bondo?

How about putty? Do you atleast block a car out with putty? Or are all of your cars just metal, primer and paint? Might as well just shoot clear over the metal.
Oh come on... funking grow up... are you that lame that that you want to crap all over this thread with lame *** **** like that??? Go back and read my funking post.

I am not getting into a lame *** argument about body work with you. I told her to replace the door, I didn't tell her to replace a quarter panel

{shakes head in disgust}

Originally Posted by F.C.3S
New dorr as in ''another'' door...of course.
Hmm don't know what a dorr is... a Door would be correct

And one hour for dismantling the door, sanding it, painting it, reassembling it and then putting it on and adjusting it?!

Wow, you're a fast worker

Use bondo.
why would you sand it, paint it?

Just get the right color. I mean common... FC's they only built what 200,000 or so of them, with less than half that still on the road. If you can't find a junk yard with the right color door, well....

and if it takes you more than an hour to swap doors (including swapping interior panels), then you probably should be working on cars, or need to spend a lot more time working on cars. Hell even if you got unlucky and had to re-adjust the hinges... that is only a 15 minute job.

The hardest part about swapping a door is swapping the key cyl... and even that is like a 10 minute part of the job at the most.

Last edited by Icemark; Jul 10, 2007 at 10:59 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 10:15 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by mazdamigastos
how much did you pay for that gtus? I to scored a gtus just last month, drag that thing all way from SF to LA.
i got it for 3k. it's in fair condition. i'm just happy it runs on stock everything right now.

anyone know how to get a re amemiya kit? is it only from japan?
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 10:21 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Pnoidrummer
i got it for 3k. it's in fair condition. i'm just happy it runs on stock everything right now.

anyone know how to get a re amemiya kit? is it only from japan?
It's not that hard to get your hands on one but be prepared to pay a hefty price though.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 02:28 AM
  #35  
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agreed. anyone know where i can get new parts? to replace like cracked plastic etc. i figure, if i go to a junk yard. the plastic parts are as brittle as mine. o.0
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 02:44 AM
  #36  
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Mazda actually still sells most of the parts for the FC. Get a part number before going to the dealer or they wont bother finding it for you.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 11:16 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Pnoidrummer
agreed. anyone know where i can get new parts? to replace like cracked plastic etc. i figure, if i go to a junk yard. the plastic parts are as brittle as mine. o.0
Mazda dealership for lots of them... blackdragonauto.com for others... mazdatrix.com for some...
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 06:27 PM
  #38  
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cool cool!! thanks guys. but i bet mazda don't sell new engine blocks anymore huh?
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 06:29 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Pnoidrummer
cool cool!! thanks guys. but i bet mazda don't sell new engine blocks anymore huh?
Nope.. but you can buy all of the parts new from mazdatrix.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 06:31 PM
  #40  
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Nope. The only way to get a new engine is to get the new parts and assemble them yourself or have a rotary shop do it for you.

Edit: damn! Got beaten to it.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 06:43 PM
  #41  
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they sell remanufactured motors. 10K installed I believe (last time i made the mistake of asking)
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 03:15 AM
  #42  
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I got my gtus for $1,300 but has low comp motor, body is perfct except for minor door ding.
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 09:38 PM
  #43  
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ohhh sweet... oh has anyone ever painted their car by themselves? i'm looking into it. but i'm wondering about like fumes and safety precautions. i have the process and stuff down and what i need. but i was wondering about safety. i don't want to die or get cancer or anything haha. main question is how do i keep particulates from the paint from getting into the grass or w/e then lifting up from the wind
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 09:47 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Pnoidrummer
ohhh sweet... oh has anyone ever painted their car by themselves? i'm looking into it. but i'm wondering about like fumes and safety precautions. i have the process and stuff down and what i need. but i was wondering about safety. i don't want to die or get cancer or anything haha. main question is how do i keep particulates from the paint from getting into the grass or w/e then lifting up from the wind
Your main question is about the environment? I'd be more worried about the cancer you mentioned.

First you'll have to check with your local laws to make sure its legal to paint at your home. I built a paint booth in my driveway. Got some semi decent paint guns, sealed up the booth, put in some fans for circulation... Put nice heater filters over the intakes (to keep particulates/bugs/etc off your car).. Works really good if you keep it clean/hose it off from time to time.


EDIT: As far as the environment, you can install filters AFTER the fans to catch the overspray...
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 09:51 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Pnoidrummer
i have the process and stuff down and what i need. ... main question is how do i keep particulates from the paint from getting into the grass or w/e then lifting up from the wind
If you talk about painting your car then mention "grass" and "wind", it's apparent you don't have "what you need".
One of the primary requirements for a decent paintjob (which includes not only your- but everyone else's safety) is a dry, dustfree place to work.
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 10:53 AM
  #46  
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oh **** nice booth. lol. micaheli what do you about the overspray on the floor? just leave it there? isn't that hazardous too? well i'm afraid personally of the particulate that just stays on the floor, and if it picks up into the air, it's around my house and i don't want it to harm anyone or myself or my family haha. XD. also do you just use a respirator? or you do you have fresh air fed in?
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 11:22 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Pnoidrummer
oh **** nice booth. lol. micaheli what do you about the overspray on the floor? just leave it there? isn't that hazardous too? well i'm afraid personally of the particulate that just stays on the floor, and if it picks up into the air, it's around my house and i don't want it to harm anyone or myself or my family haha. XD. also do you just use a respirator? or you do you have fresh air fed in?
Actually, I put a clean tarp down when I spray. And yeah. I always wear a respirator.. usually a two stage one with the stacked cartridge type. But, I'm pretty sure the cheaper ones are good too.. When I'm done, I fold up the tarp, put it in a garbage bag and throw it away. But, you can only eliminate so much overspray into the environment. HVLP really cuts it down over a conventional gun. One of the main reasons HVLP was developed.
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Old Jul 14, 2007 | 01:57 AM
  #48  
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ahh i see. i'm just worried about particles collecting into the air around my house yanno? as in like my house is more hazardous than others casue i got these dust all over. but i'm also thinking i'm over thinking about this, and it wouldn't guarentee harmful effects, especially in such small doses.
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