ok guys i have a problem, me and a friend just bought a 1987 rx-7 non turbo with the 13b 2 rotary engine, the old engine had bad apex seals, so we pulled it and installed a good engine. The old owner complained that the engine didnt get fuel, and that seems to be our problem now, the fuel pump is brand new, and theri is power to it, but when we turn the key over it doesnt come on. Also, the starter seems ot be a little beat, but we have trick two different ones with the same outcome. We can get the engine to turn over once in a while, but still no fuel.

Also, i tried using a normal compression tester and got no reading at all, just a little blip on the guage every time i cranked the engine, but ive heard that normal compression testers dont work on rotary engines anyway. We have good sparta nd all vaccum hoses and sensors and plugged in we THINK, this is our first rotary engine swap, so we are a little new to it, this is NOT our first engine swap by far tho, we have been building honda's and nissans for quite a while.

Any help with this would be awesome, we also dont have any dash lights so we dont know if we have a check engine light or not, any input on this would be awesome. Thanks guys...

 

fuel filter?....from what i remember the pump only activates when u try to crank the engine

 

sweet, we will change that and see what happens, if not we have 2 rx-7's, 2 13b rotarys and a turbo tranny from an s5 we will be selling cheap, lol

 

Fuel filter, also make sure that you have the feed/return fuel lines hooked up correctly. If you didn't do so when you installed the new engine, i've been told it will not start when this is true.

Are you sure that your getting no fuel? Did you pull a plug and smell it to check?
With the compression test, make sure that someone is giving it WOT and that your battery/starter are ok.
If your starter is week, this can explain why it won't start becuase its not building enough compression. A push start remedies this.

If I were you guys, I'd seriously invest the 20$cndn in a haynes manual, it covers alot of **** and has some good engine checks as well.

 

you started off on the right foot checking the fuel pump... but grabbing a volt meter and make sure your getting a solid 12 volts to it isnt a bad idea. It could be something as simple as an EGI fues, check all your fuses and relays... break out the volt meter (just trace the circut path for the fuel stuff with a volt meter before getting too woried, i've seen someone replace all four injectors, fuel pump, and have almost a month of headach's without a car all because one of the terminals on his fuel cut off swich wasn't connected and he never used a volt meter). Worst case is your ecu is crappin out on you (not likely if you've checked and are getting spark), or your primary injectors are junk... maby have them cleaned/flowtested (good idea at an engine swap anyway, cheep and can save alota flooding headach's). Best of luck and welcome to the world of rotory's .

 

ok i wasnt detailed enough, this is why its so weird, ive checked all fuses, ive checked all wires running into the fuel pump assembly with a test light then a voltmeter, i havent gotte nto check the fuel pump yet, we know we arent getting fuel because when we turn the car over with the fuel lines off no fuel flows, and u can NOT hear the fuel pump kick on when u turn the key over at first, the plugs are still dry, not one bit of fuel getting to them, we are having a starter problem also, but im pretty sure the main problem lies in the fuel system, ill check the fuel filter and get back to you guys, thanks! this is one of the best forum sites ive seen, you guys are helpful and not so rude like others...

 

You should check your ingnition switch and make sure that the fuel pump wire is connected to it... the wires could be corroded or something... after that get a haynes manuel and route the wire all the way back to the pump... if you do this, then there is no reason for the pump to not turn on when the key is turned.

 

Is there a fuel cut switch that might be turned off?

 

their is power to the wires where they go into the fuel pump, so im thinking the acutal assembly the fuel pump is mounted to is bad, also, the sensor on the intake tube, would that cause the car to not start if its not plugged in? i take it to be a mass air flow sensor?

 

someone help! im trying to ge tthis car running today

 

Look For A Plug Under The Dash And Check The Black Wire For Power. It Powers The Fuel Pump And Also See If There Is A Switch Conected To It.

 

ok thanks, my main concern is the mass air flow tho, im thinking that has something to do with it, is their any other small sensors that wouldnt let the car start?

 

whats this about if u leave the ignition switch on too long it can fry the coils?????????????? if so, then our are friend, and thats why we NOW HAVE NO SPARK

 

someone explain to me why i have no spark?

 

Check the ENGINE fuse in the interior fuse box.

About the fuel pump voltage. It is the large BLUE wire at the fuel pump connector that feeds the voltage to the pump. Voltage on any other wire is meaningless, unless its the black/white wire on the fuel pump harness side of the connector that MATES with the large BLUE wire.

ENGINE fuse has popped. Replace same.

The test light: go to the backyard. Get a shovel out. Dig a hole six feet deep. Bury that test light after hitting it with a hammer. Keep the volt meter.

 

haha thanks, that actually helped, eve ntho it was just a bad ground on the fuel pump! then we tried to start her up and now no spark!!!! this sucks os bad, im about to throw something!

 

did you ever hook your afm back up? sounds like in one of your last posts it was un hooked. every time i have lost spark it has been from popping the main 80a fuse in the engine compartment. its not often that these coil/ignitor packs go bad, which is why mazda wants your left nut and first born child for new ones. not to turn this into a for sale thread, but if[I] your coil packs have gone bad i do have an extra set. pm me if you need them.

 

afm????

 

afm=air flow meter, or what you referred to as the mass air flow sensor.

 

yea i got that like 30 seconds after i posted, lol, i had a brain fart, anyway, its hooked up, the coolant sensor on the bottom of the radiator isnt hooked up, and after abotu 10 seconds the buzzer comes on and the add coolant light comes on, could this have to do with whyit wont start?

 

Is the coolant level dropping when she's cranked? That's not good. But you probably already knew that

If you can, connect the temp sensor at the bottom of the rad. It's main function is a go/ no-go protection switch for the 3K warmup system, but it just may help you out to have it connected...

 

well, the problem is their is no connector that i can find on the wiring harness for the coolant sensor

 

i broke the terminal off the end of my sensor on my first car and drove it around for a couple weeks before i got a new one, besides the warmup and that annoying buzzer, the car still ran. that wire you should be looking for is green and blue, and if i remeber right i think it had a bullet connector on the end

 

yep its not there, so i shouldnt worry about that being something that could make the car have no fire, what else is there? this sucks

 

I am concerned that you said that you had no compression.
A standard compression gage should read some sort of pressure. The issue with a rotary is that you will capture the compression for each face of the rotor so you don't know which face is bad. You can take the schrader valve out and watch the needle jump when you crank it. You should be getting something better than zero. Also open the throttle when you take your tests.

For the fuel pump you might try jumpering the yellow test connector on the passenger side strut tower. This runs the fuel pump. It helps purge air out of the fuel system after having opened the fuel lines. You can then go back and listen to see if the fuel pump is running. You shouldn't worry about flooding as the injectors won't be firing but don't leave it connected too long.