so today im driving (6 port streetport n/a 13b) and get on it some but not very much and a few minutes after my car starts to run really rough and shaking alot and had no power i get to a stop light and my car will not idle and dies then floods got it started and home then come to notice the noise is coming from the rear rotor/housing so i need help to to figure out whats going onwill post video and link it on here tomorrow.

 

What do you have for a fuel controller?

 

right now i have nothing stock ecu and stock fuel pump/injectors

 

You may not like the result, but check the compression first.

 

check compression

 

Check compression first (http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/blown.htm ) and if the engine checks out, look towards a failed injector.

 

since i dont have access to a compression tester i went to your link aaron and did what it said and it all sounds good no pauses between the psssh noise on either rotor and the compression sounds pretty strong. is there a way i could check the injectors myself? or is that more of something i need to leave up to my local rotary mechanic?

 

When checking compression, were 2 of the chugs lower than 1 on one of the rotors? Does the car smoke at all?

And about the injectors:
1. Crank up car with hood open
2. Go to engine bay
3. Smack injectors 1 by 1 with a wrench till idle comes back to normal
4. ???
5. PROFIT

This usually works for stuck injectors but stock ones rarely get stuck. They just get clogged. This is more of a technique for high end injectors like 1200's or 1680's.

But really though. Theirs tons of posts on this forum for how to check if the injectors are clogged/stuck. Use the search button and see if anything comes up.

 

the car smokes a little but no more then usual for running a little premix and normal only on start up, and all the chugs noises sounds pretty much identical i just took videos of how both rotors sounds with the leading plug out and of the car running just waiting for them to finish converting for another site then i will link them on here so you all car hear what im hearing

 

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/f...ion_716370.htm
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/r...ion_716371.htm
here is the videos i took with the leading plug out on the front then the rear rotor

 

and here is the video of the knocking noise while the engine is running
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/s...ise_716372.htm

 

to me it doesnt sound like detonation.
It sounds like something is loose, and rattling.

 

Ken, I might be up that way in the next day or 2. I will bring the compression tester and a few other tools to check it out. Have you checked the front shaft for excessive end play? I have heard a simmilar sound on a Rotary that had a spun bearing. Also if you have a stethiscope you can listen for the buzz of the fuel injectors. Keep in touch.
- Robert.

 

have not thought about checking the front shaft for play dont really know how, and i dont have access to a stethoscope and if you are in salem in the next day or so or whenever and can drop by that would be great

 

Put a screw driver behind the front main pulley and see if you can pry on it a little bit and it will shift the pulley away from the motor. Pretty much any visible movement is bad. It should move, but barely any if at all.

If you have feeler gauges, the limit of end play is 0.09mm or 0.0035in (taken from the FSM). It should be somewhere between 0.040 and 0.070mm (0.0016 - 0.0028in)

Like I said, it should BARELY move. If your there with a friend doing it, its going to be one of those "did you see it?" "I'm not sure, try again" kind of things.

 

well i had everything checked out today and had 14psi of compression on the front rotor and 87 on the rear... so it spun a bearing and my front corner seals are gone time for a rebuild....

 

well since i am for sure facing a rebuild i have been thinking about other things i could do and i now wondering does anyone know a kinda ball park guess on how much it would run me to get a t2 motor and swap my streetported housing over to the t2?

 

I wouldnt count on any of your engine parts being good. This happened to my T2 and I only had 1 salvagable end plate. you can usualy get a stock JDM s5 t2 motor for around 1500. this has a better turbo and manifold and will make more power than a s4 motor but you will have to use some parts off your old motor. usually injectors throttle body and tps, and if you want to premix then you dont need to swap the front cover. I personally would go with the JDM S5 t2 motor.

 

if i was to get a s5 t2 i dont think i could use my old manifold cause im running s4 right now and if i go to s5 i would want to go full s5 and im wondering could i swap my streetported housing from a s4 na to a s5 t2?

 

how long it took for it to start, sounds like low comp. and that rattling sound definitely sounds like metal clanging on something.

btw your car sounds like an old snomobile

 

yea front rotor is shot for compression corner seal is gone and the noise if from a spun bearing the car sounded alot better before this happened its also running 3" straight exhaust with a corksport muffler with pretty much no packing left in it

 

How many miles did you have on the motor?

 

i got the car with 2k on it after rebuild and street port and i put another about 7k on it since so like 9000 some odd miles

 

I'd be calling up the P.O. yelling....

 

i want to but i got the car for 2000 with the streetport 13b 6 port full exhaust rims new tires and after market suspension all around so i got a bit of a deal to do that... i did get pulled over cause of the old owner tho he cut the oregon part off of newer tag stickers and had them on washington plates lol