13B-RE FC engine mounts
#27
Lives on the Forum
Judging from the pics, it's 1/4" mild steel?
Who does the welding???  That's some super nice MIG welding!
Man, you "cheated" on the passenger side engine bracket. Paul triangulated with the top stud, so it uses all the factory mounts points.  You might be able to get away with this on the 13B-RE, but is it strong enough for a 20B?  That rear oil orifice gets in the way!
Yes, cutting and then welding all the flat pieces is surely a cheaper way to make these.  Paul has to get some of the piece bent, so this adds into his costs.
We were talking about the predicted costs of these mounts offer to the public, and I shot out $250-$300 for purchase price.  Obviously, he thought otherwise.  Funny, this is the price you're shooting for.
I welcome the added competition.  This should force Paul to drop his prices somewhat.  In the end, the customer wins out.  Good luck!
-Ted
Who does the welding???  That's some super nice MIG welding!
Man, you "cheated" on the passenger side engine bracket. Paul triangulated with the top stud, so it uses all the factory mounts points.  You might be able to get away with this on the 13B-RE, but is it strong enough for a 20B?  That rear oil orifice gets in the way!
Yes, cutting and then welding all the flat pieces is surely a cheaper way to make these.  Paul has to get some of the piece bent, so this adds into his costs.
We were talking about the predicted costs of these mounts offer to the public, and I shot out $250-$300 for purchase price.  Obviously, he thought otherwise.  Funny, this is the price you're shooting for.
I welcome the added competition.  This should force Paul to drop his prices somewhat.  In the end, the customer wins out.  Good luck!
-Ted
#28
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Yup it is 1/4" mild steel. And we didn't cheat, we improvised The new owner of the Project 86, Craig, is the one doing the welding. He was going to break out his TIG and hook them up, but they are just proto-types, and this isn't a show car. He hasn't decided the final weld type, but it will more than likely be MIG.
The price is reasonable we think. I don't get any share of the profit, I am just offering them for the maker. Sorta using my presence online if you will. Besides, we will probably start offering these as an option when ordering 13B-RE's from us See how it all works out?
Again, we are focusing these towards the 13B-RE's buyers/owners. I am getting another 20B in a month or so, so we will be test fitting the final products on it once it is here. I won't be selling it right away, since I need it to display at SevenStock 5 in our booth (among other things)
The price is reasonable we think. I don't get any share of the profit, I am just offering them for the maker. Sorta using my presence online if you will. Besides, we will probably start offering these as an option when ordering 13B-RE's from us See how it all works out?
Again, we are focusing these towards the 13B-RE's buyers/owners. I am getting another 20B in a month or so, so we will be test fitting the final products on it once it is here. I won't be selling it right away, since I need it to display at SevenStock 5 in our booth (among other things)
#29
RX-7 Bad Ass
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On the subject of better motor mounts -
KSP/Attain in Japan is now making some VERY serious motor mounts - they use 'em in their 700-800 HP drag car.
http://www.ksp-eng.co.jp/ATTAIN/Newi...nginemount.htm
Use http://world.altavista.com (or Ted ) to translate.
KSP/Attain in Japan is now making some VERY serious motor mounts - they use 'em in their 700-800 HP drag car.
http://www.ksp-eng.co.jp/ATTAIN/Newi...nginemount.htm
Use http://world.altavista.com (or Ted ) to translate.
#30
Lives on the Forum
Holy crap!
You really don't need any translation; the pics tell everything.
It looks like FEED has come out with a new engine mount (rubber) replacement for the FC3S and FD3S.  FD owners are going to be happy, cause the stock FD engine mounts are stupid expensive.  It looks like they did some testing on them too, cause I see weight numbers posted.  Their engine mount is designed for some deflection, with a "plastic" (i.e. polymer) insert for slight damping.  I could find no price on these things, but they look rather pricey!
-Ted
You really don't need any translation; the pics tell everything.
It looks like FEED has come out with a new engine mount (rubber) replacement for the FC3S and FD3S.  FD owners are going to be happy, cause the stock FD engine mounts are stupid expensive.  It looks like they did some testing on them too, cause I see weight numbers posted.  Their engine mount is designed for some deflection, with a "plastic" (i.e. polymer) insert for slight damping.  I could find no price on these things, but they look rather pricey!
-Ted
#33
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Re: 20B goodness
Originally posted by gr0undz3r0
I know this is a little off topic. However what is the best way to get my hands on a 20b turbo setup for my FC.?
I know this is a little off topic. However what is the best way to get my hands on a 20b turbo setup for my FC.?
Do a search on google for jspec or japspec and call around to the engine importers that come up on the search, you're sure to find one in stock, but expect to pay in excess of $3800 for one.
As far as a single turbo kit goes, there really isn't one. It's mostly one off custom jobs... however, Mariah does have a dumb kit that they sell, you can call them for a price quote, but I wouldn't touch that manifold with a 10 foot pole.
For quality, I would contact Greg as he has a direct connection with Australia and will be able to provide you with a VERY nicely priced turbo and a decently strong and flowing manifold from RPM... or you could just call Australia yourself
As far as oil and coolant lines, I think that you are on your own for that... but you could email tim at RPM and ask him if they sell those as well, but it would probably be cheaper to just make em up here yourself stateside.
Back on topic.....
Those FC3S.org mounts look pretty nice. I think its awesome that there will be a bit of competition out there.... however, I do like the passenger side mount that K2RD sells and how it goes up along the rear housing for added stability... its pretty cool that you guys are doing your own R&D on them as well... something I didn't have patience for That picture with the level on top of the intake paints a pretty good picture
As far as solid motor mounts go, there was a nice discussion on the 20B forum where J9FD3S brought up the possibilities and negatives of using a solid motor mount to strengthen your chasis and applying undue pressure to the engine....
here is a link to that thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=84711
Last edited by Kurgan; 06-21-02 at 03:43 PM.
#34
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Well, they are finished with the proto-type stage. Now we will finish up the rest of everything to make sure they are just we are looking to acheive and then we will start offering them to people. With these mounts the water neck and intake pipe fit under the hood without any cutting to shorten it like alot of people have had to do. This is with a TII hood mind you, and we will have to put an N/A hood on the car to see if it fits as well. We have also included pics of the inside of the engine bay with the hood on so you can see what we mean about the fitment. We also included some other pics to show how wel the Griffin radiator works in this application in an FC.
Again, feedback is welcome.
Again, feedback is welcome.
#42
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As far as the PS pump, not sure yet as we still have to test it, but a good point that we will look at. On the drain plug, yes we will probably just drill a hole so that the water can drain, but another good point that we missed. This is why we posted this here since I knew that all of you would catch the things we forgot.
I don't think a strut bar will fit over the engine at all. We will look at some options and maybe just come up with a design for one for use with this engine.
I don't think a strut bar will fit over the engine at all. We will look at some options and maybe just come up with a design for one for use with this engine.
#43
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wow, it fits under the stock hood? that radiator fits perfectly with that water pump housing too. there is no way that the stock intake pipe will fit with power steering on ours it they go thru the same space. when you change the tstats in that engine can you check the thermo valve in the t stat housing? out of 4 three of them have been bad so far.
mike
mike
#46
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Originally posted by fc3s.org
Mike,
Is that with the stock PS or retro fitting the FC PS onto the Cosmo?
Also, we will be adding a small drain hole at each end for coolant drainage.
Mike,
Is that with the stock PS or retro fitting the FC PS onto the Cosmo?
Also, we will be adding a small drain hole at each end for coolant drainage.
mike
#47
I Raise Chickens
Originally posted by fc3s.org
Mike,
Is that with the stock PS or retro fitting the FC PS onto the Cosmo?
Also, we will be adding a small drain hole at each end for coolant drainage.
Mike,
Is that with the stock PS or retro fitting the FC PS onto the Cosmo?
Also, we will be adding a small drain hole at each end for coolant drainage.
we used the stock FC power steering and mount, so the elbow cant be used. We didnt have the bracket or power steering pump off the 13B-RE.
#48
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Originally posted by HN
does the hood close perfectly? have you test fitted it with the twins' downpipe installed?
does the hood close perfectly? have you test fitted it with the twins' downpipe installed?
We don't have a stock DP, but there is plenty of room to install a DP. Anyone know if the FD DP would fit it?
#49
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Originally posted by cymfc3s
we used the stock FC power steering and mount, so the elbow cant be used. We didnt have the bracket or power steering pump off the 13B-RE.
we used the stock FC power steering and mount, so the elbow cant be used. We didnt have the bracket or power steering pump off the 13B-RE.
#50
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The FD downpipe does fit......but BARELY!!! I mean it. I have been running mine with it for almost a year but it hits on the heatshields and it's positioned to high up in the tunnel. I have a custom connector pipe that I made. I have found that when the engine pitches, especially on starting the engine that it hits awfully hard on the underside of the car. I will be having it bent sometime in the next month or two to correctly position it in the tunnel. The FD engine sit's VERY low in it and the downpipe is designed in accomidation to that.