Judging from the pics, it's 1/4" mild steel?
Who does the welding???&nbsp That's some super nice MIG welding!
Man, you "cheated" on the passenger side engine bracket. Paul triangulated with the top stud, so it uses all the factory mounts points.&nbsp You might be able to get away with this on the 13B-RE, but is it strong enough for a 20B?&nbsp That rear oil orifice gets in the way!

Yes, cutting and then welding all the flat pieces is surely a cheaper way to make these.&nbsp Paul has to get some of the piece bent, so this adds into his costs.

We were talking about the predicted costs of these mounts offer to the public, and I shot out $250-$300 for purchase price.&nbsp Obviously, he thought otherwise.&nbsp Funny, this is the price you're shooting for.

I welcome the added competition.&nbsp This should force Paul to drop his prices somewhat.&nbsp In the end, the customer wins out.&nbsp Good luck!



-Ted

 

Yup it is 1/4" mild steel. And we didn't cheat, we improvised The new owner of the Project 86, Craig, is the one doing the welding. He was going to break out his TIG and hook them up, but they are just proto-types, and this isn't a show car. He hasn't decided the final weld type, but it will more than likely be MIG.

The price is reasonable we think. I don't get any share of the profit, I am just offering them for the maker. Sorta using my presence online if you will. Besides, we will probably start offering these as an option when ordering 13B-RE's from us See how it all works out?

Again, we are focusing these towards the 13B-RE's buyers/owners. I am getting another 20B in a month or so, so we will be test fitting the final products on it once it is here. I won't be selling it right away, since I need it to display at SevenStock 5 in our booth (among other things)

 

On the subject of better motor mounts -

KSP/Attain in Japan is now making some VERY serious motor mounts - they use 'em in their 700-800 HP drag car.

http://www.ksp-eng.co.jp/ATTAIN/Newi...nginemount.htm

Use http://world.altavista.com (or Ted ) to translate.

 

Holy crap!
You really don't need any translation; the pics tell everything.

It looks like FEED has come out with a new engine mount (rubber) replacement for the FC3S and FD3S.&nbsp FD owners are going to be happy, cause the stock FD engine mounts are stupid expensive.&nbsp It looks like they did some testing on them too, cause I see weight numbers posted.&nbsp Their engine mount is designed for some deflection, with a "plastic" (i.e. polymer) insert for slight damping.&nbsp I could find no price on these things, but they look rather pricey!


-Ted

 

I know this is a little off topic. However what is the best way to get my hands on a 20b turbo setup for my FC.?

 

Order one online

 

20Bs are getting harder and harder to find... and more expensive at that... but it doesn't mean you can't get one.

Do a search on google for jspec or japspec and call around to the engine importers that come up on the search, you're sure to find one in stock, but expect to pay in excess of $3800 for one.

As far as a single turbo kit goes, there really isn't one. It's mostly one off custom jobs... however, Mariah does have a dumb kit that they sell, you can call them for a price quote, but I wouldn't touch that manifold with a 10 foot pole.

For quality, I would contact Greg as he has a direct connection with Australia and will be able to provide you with a VERY nicely priced turbo and a decently strong and flowing manifold from RPM... or you could just call Australia yourself

As far as oil and coolant lines, I think that you are on your own for that... but you could email tim at RPM and ask him if they sell those as well, but it would probably be cheaper to just make em up here yourself stateside.

Back on topic.....

Those FC3S.org mounts look pretty nice. I think its awesome that there will be a bit of competition out there.... however, I do like the passenger side mount that K2RD sells and how it goes up along the rear housing for added stability... its pretty cool that you guys are doing your own R&D on them as well... something I didn't have patience for That picture with the level on top of the intake paints a pretty good picture

As far as solid motor mounts go, there was a nice discussion on the 20B forum where J9FD3S brought up the possibilities and negatives of using a solid motor mount to strengthen your chasis and applying undue pressure to the engine....

here is a link to that thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=84711

 

Well, they are finished with the proto-type stage. Now we will finish up the rest of everything to make sure they are just we are looking to acheive and then we will start offering them to people. With these mounts the water neck and intake pipe fit under the hood without any cutting to shorten it like alot of people have had to do. This is with a TII hood mind you, and we will have to put an N/A hood on the car to see if it fits as well. We have also included pics of the inside of the engine bay with the hood on so you can see what we mean about the fitment. We also included some other pics to show how wel the Griffin radiator works in this application in an FC.

Again, feedback is welcome.

 

 

 

 

 

Looks good will that intake clear a P/S pump? or a strut bar?

 

For the coolant drain plug, will there be a "hole" to assist w/ the drain off. It seems that the coolant will have no where to go......

 

Maybe...welding on a "split" brace instead of a full piece will do the trick....

The brackets do look very good.

 

As far as the PS pump, not sure yet as we still have to test it, but a good point that we will look at. On the drain plug, yes we will probably just drill a hole so that the water can drain, but another good point that we missed. This is why we posted this here since I knew that all of you would catch the things we forgot.

I don't think a strut bar will fit over the engine at all. We will look at some options and maybe just come up with a design for one for use with this engine.

 

wow, it fits under the stock hood? that radiator fits perfectly with that water pump housing too. there is no way that the stock intake pipe will fit with power steering on ours it they go thru the same space. when you change the tstats in that engine can you check the thermo valve in the t stat housing? out of 4 three of them have been bad so far.

mike

 

Mike,

Is that with the stock PS or retro fitting the FC PS onto the Cosmo?

Also, we will be adding a small drain hole at each end for coolant drainage.

 

does the hood close perfectly? have you test fitted it with the twins' downpipe installed?

 

its the stock fc ps, with the 13b swap we didnt get the ps pump, and it didn't enter my mind to try and use the 20b pump. heres a good idea maybe put a little tube one the mount so when you drain the coolant it doesn't make a huge mess like the stock ones do.

mike

 

we used the stock FC power steering and mount, so the elbow cant be used. We didnt have the bracket or power steering pump off the 13B-RE.

 

The hood closes without contacting anything as of right now. We still have to connect the turbo's and reconnect the outlet side to make sure it doesn't hit, but we don't think it will. We will test to make sure.

We don't have a stock DP, but there is plenty of room to install a DP. Anyone know if the FD DP would fit it?

 

OK cool. I have the A/C and PS pumps on one I have in the garage so I will check it out and see what we can come up with. Do you have any more pics of the engine and the setup I could look at? If so, please just email them to me at dave@fc3s.org

 

The FD downpipe does fit......but BARELY!!! I mean it. I have been running mine with it for almost a year but it hits on the heatshields and it's positioned to high up in the tunnel. I have a custom connector pipe that I made. I have found that when the engine pitches, especially on starting the engine that it hits awfully hard on the underside of the car. I will be having it bent sometime in the next month or two to correctly position it in the tunnel. The FD engine sit's VERY low in it and the downpipe is designed in accomidation to that.