guys im need some help/advice.

my engine starts good and strong, but sometimes it's not able to keep up the rpm at idel and would die on me.

so i would have to keep the throttle to 1k-1.5k rpm to keep the engine running for an amount of time to warm the car up, else it would die on me and i would have to start the car up again.

this usually happens when i drive the car on the road for bout 15min and when i turn it off to buy a coffee and start it back up. it'll die on me with the problem.

one of my friend told me it's the problem with my N318 Pressure Sensor
*anyone know what's the part # to this coz i want to get a new one from dealer.

any experts know what's going on?

 

It's probably just hotstart issues due to slight flooding. You can send out your fuel injectors to be cleaned, and it should help.

Buying a new pressure sensor from Mazda would be about $500 (no joke). I doubt it's related to your issue anyway.

 

what does flooding do to my engine? i checked the dealer, the boost sensor is $400!! where is the fuel injector located btw?

 

If you're flooded you should be able to pull your EGI INJ fuse (40a in the fuse box on the right side of your engine bay)

Crank it.

Replace fuse.

Start.

 

Get a copy of the factory workshop manual and work through the troubleshooting section for your problem. The manuals are available from links in the 2nd gen FAQ section of this forum.

Trouble starting a warm engine can be due to one or more of several things including poor compression, faulty fuel injector, fouled spark plugs, etc. The only way to diagnose the problem is to systematically work through a troubleshooting routine. Good luck!

 

*********die on me with the problem.****************************************** *************************************
What does that mean. It'll start up but won't hold a idle? OR you come out of the shop and the car flat won't start?

 

it'll start nice n strong, but it won't idle unless i apply gas to it manually.

 

You need to follow the FSM and set your idle according to it. The FUEL AND EMISSIONS SECTION. A download of it is in the FAQ thread.

You might pull the BAC plug off and look in the plug to see if the two contacts are pushed back or not.

 

this doesnt happen all the time tho. only after i ran the engine for about 10-15min, turned it off, and starting it again.

 

Check engine compression.

 

hmm It could be prob injectors, they can be dirty or some thing is wrong with them...
the gas can go threw the injectors maybe when you are adding more power then the fuel goes threw but hmmm..... id check the injectors if i where you.

 

Then your engine warmed up enough for the cam to fall off the roll pin, (see FSM, FUEL AND EMISSIONS SECTION for what those terms mean), which in turn closed the throttle plates all the way. So, the next time you started the engine up, the waterthermowax was not there to carry the load and all that was left was a engine with the idle needing to be set up right and or the BAC gone south because the plug isn't on/a pin is pushed back or a burnt out transistor in the ECU that drives the BAC. I'd suggest going to the FUEL AND EMISSIONS SECTION of the free FSM, and set the idle.

Or farm it out to the local RX shop. They need your money to replenish their 401K/Roth/IRA.

Just in case: The Way Things Work on RX........With a cold engine, there is an item called the water thermowax. It has a piston on it. This piston rests on a screw that is attached to a cam. The cam rides on a rollpin and if the Piston is fully retracted, like you'd find on a cold engine, then result is the primary throttle plate is held open a crack more than normal. So. When you start the engine and all that 3000rpm b.s. is over, the cracked open throttle plate lets the engine idle at approx 1300rpm to WARM the engine up. As the engine water gets hotter, the Piston mentioned above, extends, and eventually extends enough for the Cam to come off the Rollpin completley. That results in the primary throttle plate to close all the way. NOW the engine idle is completley dependent on the idle that was set by someone long ago. Plus the BAC should be trying to maintain a 750rpm idle by the ECU driving its duty cycle to let more air in at the BAC.

If the idle was set right Long ago, the BAC would almost not be needed, since they should have set the Idle Right when they did it, which it sounds like they didn't. Now it's YOUR turn to set the basic idle speed, using the Tool called FSM.