I recently went to racing beats web page and checked out the lightened rotors. I heard that with them you can rev up to like 12,000 rpm or something. A friend told me that there are usually cooling problems when you are revving that high. I remember reading in SCC's issue titled "Drift Dreams" there was the Apex'i FD on the cover. The FD had custom venting which channeled air through the stock dual oil coolers, a water cooled waste gate, fuel coolers, a v-mount inter cooler setup with custom ducting, and im sure, a bunch of other things to keep things cool.
Im wondering what else can and should be done to keep a TII engine cool at 10 to 12,000 rpm at slightly above stock boost pressure? Im planning to do this sometime in the future, when i get enough money. so thanks for all the help in advance.

 

that motor wont last long

 

agreed

brain storn and cool every thing you can think of, if you can afford it

you can pull just as much power at 8K than you can 12K unless your moded up the ying yang (I feel sorry for the E shaft at 12K :

 

It's my understanding that high rev engines benifit more as naturally aspirated, carb engines with pports.

Anyone that's actually done this with some input?

 

As long as you retain flow (wether it be NA or turbo) you will usually make more HP with RPM. Since HP is a mathematical equation they are directly proportional at a constant torque.

 

 

wastegate cooler huh? Did that come in the box with the with the automatic wheelbearing greaser kit?

12krpm with slightly above stock boost pressure huh? The stock turbo runs out of *** at 7-8krpm...how are you gonna continue to push it (without boost dropping off) on up until 12k, even if your engine *could* handle it?

This whole thing is a bad idea. Built turbo engines generally observe a 7.5k-9krpm redline depending on setup. You have to have a big turbo and a ton of fuel to make safe, useable power above 7.5krpm.

 

yep the only thing that should be reving over 9k is bridge/peripherial ported built n/a motors.

or a reni

 

Oddly, I just noticed that today when I was flipping through the very same SCC mentioned earlier. The Apex'i turbo kit for the FD comes with a water cooled WG.... wacky.

 

i have also heard that an NA benefits more so from high revs. but if so, why would they sell turbo light weight rotors? check them out at http://racingbeat.com/FRmazda2.htm

 

http://racingbeat.com/FRmazda2.htm

 

Less rotating mass = less E. shaft flex. Among other things that a lighter flywheel will do.

Couple years ago, I was running a factory 12a peripheral port with a set of mazda comp. race rotors. (They are lighter from the start and have the same style of combustion chamber as the 13B rotors.) Rob@Pineapple Racing removed around 2lbs off of each rotor. Along with a 7lb aluminum flywheel, 3 puck solid hub clutch, and pressure plate that had anouther 2lbs removed. To say the least the motor was very rev happy. Imagine a built Yamaha Banchee. Thats the way the engine reved. Insanly quick. If I ever build anouther N/A motor, I'll be sticking a set of lightend rotors in for shure. CJ

 

Even the IMSA P-Port or the 26B monsters didn't rev to 12k RPM.... Point is that you're not going to be doing what you've proposed.

 

someone probably already said this, but what if you get the new rotars and just rev it to where you used ot or just dont mess with the rev limiter? wouldnt that help produce a little more power and let it rev faster?

 

Sorry...maybe Im just not thinking clearly..but what the hell is the point of a wastegate cooler?

 

if you read the SCC mag titled "drift dreams" they say that (this is almost verbatim, i think) "rotory engines are well known for melting waste gates, so a water-cooled waste gate has been installed to prvent that."

 

Now I remember why I dont read SCC..

 

think about it if you had an fd running over redline like imamura does somethings going to get hot. its not like the baby those drift cars the trash the **** out of them and then have there sponsors rebuild to better than new so they can trash it again drifters work there cars over!!

 

i think you are missing the point. the extra heat is coming from making all that extra power, not directly from the rpms. high rpms are a symptom, not a cause of the extra heat.

 

were the hell are you going to rev to 12k?

 

Get Ceramic 2mm apex seals and hardened stationary gears. You might want to upgrade your oil pan to hold more oil too.

 

You will also want to upgrade your job to produce more funds, and you will want to upgrade your garage to keep your car on the road...

 

haha, yeah. we had a rotor gear come out at stock revs and it screwed up everything except the front iron and rotor (rear rotor came out). thats not a cheap rebuild!

 

what the ****! i shall explain it. rpm revolutions per min. that would be the rotor going around and around haha ok so the rotor going around causes friction and friction causes heat. u are getting the power from the higher rpms. high rpms are a symptom? heat is a symptom of high rpms...
like other people b4 said that u need a bigger garage and more money u also will need to get another car while u are fixing your fc