tinvestor

So here are some pics of the new power distribution system, amps, box to hold the 2- JL audio 12W7 subs and if you look into the other storage bin you can see the "carputer" (as Karack calls them) under the carputer is 2 Xstactic batcap 800 battery/capacitors and in that bay you can also find a nice piece I found at tiger direct, it is a device that uses a USB input and converts it to RCA so I can use the carputer as an IPOD.

I have set up 12 independent fused connections for: alarm, inverter (computer and xbox), amp 1, amp 2, 30 band EQ, haltech, starter, front harness, 2 for the main 80 amp underhood fuse block, fuel pump, electric fan.

That is a DVD recorder/player in the middle of the storage bays (last pic). It will play through both the 14" glove compartment monitor and the Navigation/stereo unit. I put the top of the speaker box in the hatch to show how it will fit (it is too bulky to risk lifting the entire box in alone without damaging the car)

TitosToy

nice job and set-up you got there. i got 2 questions on the sub-box. 1) how are you fastening the box to not move when you're driving? 2) why did you setup the speakers to point out to the car? wouldnt it sound better to point it up on the glass?

p4nc7

iTrader: (1)

Very nice, I'm guess this is for a show car? Those W7's are really going to pound =)

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

I can answer that one for you, the box is made out of MDF (which is very heavy), plus the metal reinforcement, plus the speakers; that box is going nowhere once everything is installed.

tinvestor

Yes this car is for show in the beginning. Lets face it I want people to see it once it is finished. $30 K and 2000 hours of my labor coupled with being the only 10th AE in the world that is RHD at 500 HP, 150 DB, 14" monitor for on board computer and everything polished, painted, chromed, or shot with colored bedliner I am hoping for the cover of TURBO or IMPORT TUNER.

As far as mounting the box it will be through bolted in three places with 3/8" bolts and nuts, however this is more to protect the box from my driving than me from my box. It fits VERY snugly between the strut towers and can only move backwards right now because of the design of the box itself.

The subs are rear facing because I have tried many configurations on this car and this seems to give the most DB and cleanest sound, the box is also designed to break the standing wave which no one ever seems to do anymore. This allows the driver to operate without "tripping over itself". Sound waves are projected in both directions and when it hits the back wall of the box and bounces back at the cone the wave causes pressure and interferes with the smooth operation of the sub. You may notice from some of your own experiences that certain enclosures produce ALOT more clean base for 1 or 2 frequencies so you find yourself showing the system off with the same three songs all the time because they sound best. This is a result of the standing wave interfering with the movement of the cone, and the reason it doesnt cause a problem at a given frequency is because that frequency sends the wave back to the cone and matches the timing of the movement of the cone. So if you break the wave you can get better response through a broader frequency range.

And yes of course port tuning affects frequency and performance at a given frequency range, but you really have problems when that tuned range is the same frequency that causes the wave to return to the cone at the wrong moment and distort the movement of the cone which causes you to think that the sub is crappy or box is crappy when really it is just the box.

If you guys havent seen the rest of the project click on the links in my signature. The stereo although a nice touch is really not as nice as the overall project.

synesthete

What are you running for batteries and alt? I have two 500watt 3 channel amps and just a regular alpine deck, and running it all for long starts to kill my charging system with a FD alt and a optima redtop. Car runs like a pig when i crank it up too. That sytems gonna pull a lot of juice from this old car. I doubt my car would even run while trying to burn a dvd, or watching one on a powered display.

~Rev Free~

man wanna come do my setup? its a mess of wires that i dont know what to do with. hahaha.

Icemark

I think you are gonna have serious skipping problems with that DVD player while the car is moving.

synesthete

Yeah computer stuff isnt generally all that shock resistant. I would wonder how long your harddrive would hold up too, if your running a standard 3.5" drive they are not supposed to take any shock while operating. The dvd burner would only work at stand still, the one in my computer will crap out sometimes just by having drunk people walking less that lightfootedly near it in my house with old floors.

loudazzrx7

iTrader: (6)

Not sure about the setup,your going to have problems with trying to achieve that much db with it,its going to shake too much and skip like a bitch.If you want a really clean box,and want to make it in a mag,fiberglass a box for those subs.The w7s are heavy as hell and with mdf that box is going to be heavy as hell.I also got a better seal for my hatch and moved the hatch locks down about 1/4 inch to make it tight as hell.I hit 151.3 dbs and the seal blew out of the corners.Tweeters built my box.the ****** is bullit proof.

synesthete

Does that hatch mod work pretty well for silencing that bitch at high volume? I need to try something like that. How hard was it to do?

I've got two McIntosh amps, with about 500watts to two 10" kicker solo-barics, and even though i cant hear it.. i know it is rattlin i have to turn it down when i'm stopped in traffic. boooo

tinvestor

The DVD will only be used to introduce software and to download to the hard drive for storing movies and songs (for shows). Head unit plays DVD, and CD so no problem with driving. I have MMR mounts all around so I dont even think the DVD will work at idle

For power I am running two Batcap 800 battery/capaciters they are amazing they were $300 for the pair but I was assured they can handle the systems I have in place. When the guy SELLING the stuff to you says "three would be too many". You can believe him. I am running stock alternator now but I anticipate either a Phoenix Gold or Stinger or custom alternator or there is a guy on here that is selling them for his dad? He makes up to 300 amp alternator so when I burn mine up I will upgrade to one of those choices.

loudazzrx7
"Not sure about the setup,your going to have problems with trying to achieve that much db with it,its going to shake too much and skip like a bitch.If you want a really clean box,and want to make it in a mag,fiberglass a box for those subs.The w7s are heavy as hell and with mdf that box is going to be heavy as hell.I also got a better seal for my hatch and moved the hatch locks down about 1/4 inch to make it tight as hell.I hit 151.3 dbs and the seal blew out of the corners.Tweeters built my box.the ****** is bullit proof."

Yes "heavy as hell" 500 HP on street tires I will need to have a girl laying on top of the box to get the car to hook up. The subs weigh in at 91 lbs. and the box is 45 +- a few pounds so in all it is 135 or so over the rear end with my KYB AGX adjustables I should be able to grab a little better. What are you running to achieve 151? My hatch seal is brand new from Mazda and I dont think I need to make it any tighter but if I do I will use your latch lowering idea.

With all of the bedliner on the bottom of this car and over 100 square feet of dynomat in it I dont think it will vibrate the panels but the glass may be a problem.

tandolla

iTrader: (1)

Not trying to steal post but.. this is how i did mine.. ( i made it my self fits REALLY good but ( REALY Heavy)




but anyways.. looks really nice..

tinvestor

I would be more worried about my glass if I pointed my subs at them. 2- JL 12W7 would kill the hatch quick.

iceblue

My ears hurt.

TitosToy

nice set-up. it does look heavy as hell.

tandolla

iTrader: (1)

oh it is HAHAHAHA it unbelive how heavy it is it takes 2 people to get it out of the car lol but it sounds nice though

Zokus

So you're telling me that I don't have to strap that load of concrete blocks down on the back of the truck next time because it weighs so much it isn't going to go anywhere?

tinvestor

Yes that is correct. If the load of concrete blocks is one block, and it is surrounded on 5 sides it wont move

Again for the record my box is secured.

sTaLa

Well... I don't see any problem if the car is only for shoe; but I have some security issues if it is a daily driver. In the case of an accident, with the impact, I don't think it would be really safe to receive a pair of subs with their box behind your head.

What I did with with mine is to mold the fiberglass in the trunk. So the box is stucked between the strut towers and the back of the car.

And back in the time I only had an MDF box... it moved if I didn't secure it with the straps.

tinvestor

If you look at the box that began this discussion it will be clear that it is IMPOSSIBLE for it to move

HOWEVER, FOR THE THIRD TIME THE BOX IS SECURED WITH THROUGH BOLTS.

tinvestor

Just realised I never posted a pic of the completed box. threw in a pic of the engine bay.

sTaLa

I know. If you take a look at whom I quote, it was not directed at your work.

sTaLa

And I just realised I misread my first quote... he was talking about croncrete and a truck... anyway.

trust7

Saw this while checking your vert out and thought I would chime in, I was a sound designer for a long time and:

1. tinvest the S5/S4 hatch can take 166+ I know from experience, the rx glass is made to sustain a pretty serious impact actually, I dont know very many people who have had the back glass broken without something real dumb happening.

2. Since you have "had" the box now for a couple years in the car I guess in theory (havent finished reading through your threads) I would be interested to know how your stereo worked out. On a UPV we have checked almost every location in an Rx FC style and found sub bass firing in to the glass in a folded horn style to be the most efficient, loudest, and most correct wave related placement, every box we have built even with 7's or otherwise regardless of power that faced rear like you have there sounded like utter ****, so.......I am curious.

C