Well im still having problems with my 10th AE. I figured I'd start a different thread, because ive eliminated the possibility of an AFM problem.

OK, so heres the situation. When the car is started, it runs at about 800 rpms for about 10-15 seconds, and then shuts off. It will start right back up without any issues, but will then shut off again. Now, heres everything I did:

I jumpered the fuel pump checker, and it was doing the same thing as before. Also, after about the 5th time of starting it, and having it die, it wouldnt start again. I think it flooded.

I also tested the AFM to the factory specs, and it checks out. It is an aftermarket AFM, but it still is working to the factory specs.

I decided it might have a leak somewhere, so i put a boost leak tester on it, and it wont hold over 8 psi. Also, at vacuum, it only has 5psi of vacuum at idle. What should it be at?

I tried to locate the leak, but it sounded like it came from the rear of the UIM, but nothing could be located. So, i pulled off the UIM, and everything looks perfect. Im currently replacing all the vacuum lines, because i think that it has some thing to do with old lines.

One thing I was thinking about as far as vacuum is concerned, is that when i pressurize the UIM and LIM, the EGR valve is releasing the pressure in the Intake tract into the exhaust. Could this be possible?

I know this is a long post, but i really want to try and explain everything as well as i can, and I really NEED your guys help on this. I have searched, and even read through the whole FSM. Let me know what you guys think might be the problem.

RoninRX7

 

Have you checked the compression on the engine? Also is the top radiator hose hard like thers pressure on it or is it soft?

 

The engine only has about 4k miles on it max, its a new rebuild from Adkins. And no, the radiator hose is not hard because the engine wont run long enough for the pressure to build up.

 

replace ur gaskets, make sure u tighten the bolts correctly, check the torque specs. replace all hoses, and make sure the engine warms up if u dont have cold start assist. you will have to hold the accelerator down at like 1-1.5k RPMS for 3-5 min for it to warm manually. If that dun work consult FSM!!

http://www.rx7city.com/88manual.htm
Good Luck

 

Just for kicks check if your MAF is connected properly. I know that without a connected MAF meter it will go through the startup and then just die.

 

Have you checked your intake manifold gaskets?? Try replacing those. If one of them is messed up itll cause a huge vac leak and it wont run.

 

Got any details about this aftermarket AFM?? really interested

 

Ill have to look up the name of it. Its got a sticker on it that says its and aftermarket unit setup to factory specs.

I did check the AFM, at least a couple times, and it is plugged in fully and correctly.

As for the vacuum leak, I still havent found where it is, but im in the process of replacing all the little vacuum lines on the thing since most of them are original.

Since i have the UIM off, and will most likely remove the LIM, should i just save myself the hastle of replacing all those vacuum lines and just eliminate the emissions?

Thanks,
RoninRX7

 

Ok, so Im in the process of eliminating the emissions. I have a question though, what do you have to keep to keep the twin scroll setup working propperly? Thanks.

RoninRX7

 

anyone?

 

Alright, so all my emissions are gone. The only thing it kept for vacuum was the pressure sensor, BOV, FPR, Twin scroll, brake booster, and the oil breather and charcoal canister are teed together and routed to the TID. Long story short,


There are no more vacuum leaks!!!! Hooray!!! Why wont it work still? Everytime i start it, it will run for only a few seconds, then shut off. No matter what I do with the throttle, it keeps dying. Are there any guesses as to what my problem is? Please, i really need the help. Thanks

RoninRX7