soldave

iTrader: (1)

Wondering if the stock harness will handle 120W or 130W headlights in an FC or not. We all know how brittle the stock wiring harness is in these cars and am thinking a lot more power in the lights is gonna heat up those wires quite a bit more. But is it an excessive amount?

If it is, then is a parallel wiring system what you'd need to get it working, right? Bear with me as I'm not the most electrical-minded guy but want to make sure I'm thinking this through right. Looking at the wiring diagrams it looks like I'd need to get a 30A inline fuse running from the battery. This would then go through 2 new relays alongside the 2 original ones (the signal wires being spliced so it all comes in at the same time) and then a ground from the 2 lights back to the battery or a suitable grounding point.

Does that sounds vaguely sane or am I completely off?

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

do you not care about other people on the road?

soldave

iTrader: (1)

Yes, which is why I'd be getting E-coded lights (or the equivalent here in Japan) and not DOT ones.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

what is that some kind of light that cuts off the beam pattern?
100w lights are legal there?
That is BRIGHT

soldave

iTrader: (1)

130W lights are fine too. And yes, the E-coded lights have a different shape that when used and tilted, won't blind other road users.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

All I was able to find was that insulation temperature limits range from 60C-90C. I can also tell you that the temperature rise above outside temperature (in number of degrees) is proportional to the heat, so a 130W light will produce a temperature rise that is 75% more than a 75W light. So if it's 20C outside and the wire is 40C on the old light (rise = 20C), the new light will make it 55C (rise = 35C, 75% more). Finally em-brittling comes from the evaporation of thin oil in the plastic. Once all of that oil evaporates it's as brittle as it will get. In the short run more heat will only make the plastic softer, until you turn the light off. OTOH expanding and contracting from all that heat/cold might be a good way to crack the wire, I dunno. That is also proportional to temperature rise which is proportional to heat.

So I can't give you a straight answer but hopefully all that engineering info will help a little.

87TIIFC

iTrader: (2)

ur harness gets fried. my car came with 85w bulbs if i remember right, and my harness got fried. get pele to rebuild them and he will make it handle the wattage you want. but in my opinion, there is a gb for sakebomb projector lights going on that im in on. only a 35W draw, but better light output and spread than any non projector light source can do with any wattage. plus the stock harness can handle it. oh and when my harness went out, my interior lights went out as well as random exterior lights on my car. it sucked...