[PICS] Pulled apart my blown engine....56K...Maybe
#26
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Originally Posted by Dan H
Ask Kevin Landers, Rotary Resurrection. He builds engines with Atkins seals all the time and its been said that if an Atkins apex seal blows, they hardly do any damage at all.
I almost guarentee you kevin never said anything like that.
#27
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Hmm...maybe your right. I tried to do a search. But with the Atkins seals, damage should still be minimal since the Atkins seals are softer than OEM.
"The apex seal debate is never ending. I've run the stockers, atkins and Rotary aviation in my FD. The stockers hold tons of power, but when they go...they destroy tons of stuff in their place. The atkins don't like high EGT's so they'll let go faster than the stockers...but when they go, they do minimal to NO damage to ANYTHING. I've had 2 engine's go out that had the atkins seals in them...not one single scratch when the engine blew. I currently have the rotary aviation seals in and they seem to be holding quite well. I'm trying to be the first person to blow them up...but I'm having a little bit of difficulty doing it." -jspecracer7
"The apex seal debate is never ending. I've run the stockers, atkins and Rotary aviation in my FD. The stockers hold tons of power, but when they go...they destroy tons of stuff in their place. The atkins don't like high EGT's so they'll let go faster than the stockers...but when they go, they do minimal to NO damage to ANYTHING. I've had 2 engine's go out that had the atkins seals in them...not one single scratch when the engine blew. I currently have the rotary aviation seals in and they seem to be holding quite well. I'm trying to be the first person to blow them up...but I'm having a little bit of difficulty doing it." -jspecracer7
Last edited by Dan H; 12-19-04 at 11:09 AM.
#28
Haven't we ALL heard this
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by drago86
You motor blew because it was knocking like you admitted, stop trying to pawn it off on poor build quality.
That is, however the neatest looking blown seal ive ever seen,.. they usually crack,.. this ones has big jagged edged chunks out of it.
If you think that rotor is reusable you need to not do your own rebuild, you obiously dont know what to look for, Id'ing perfectly fine and normal parts as suspect and an obiously trashed parts as reusable?....and yes,.. your housing is shot too.
I know why it let go...it was all me
I understand this is my first time and that is why I am on here asking questions with pictures. Thanks for the info on the bluing.
Two new rotor housings are already part of the plan.
What makes a rotor not reusable? I haven't found any info on here from threads. Is it basicly any gouges from a seal letting go?
Thanks for the info guys!
#29
Haven't we ALL heard this
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
There doesn't seem to be a spacer missing. That washer sits under the counterweight, and the torrington bearing sits on top of the thrust plate.
The larger chamfer on the the CAS gear goes toward the engine. If you look at each side of the gear where the e-shaft goes through, one will be cut at an angle on the edge. That side toward the engine.
The larger chamfer on the the CAS gear goes toward the engine. If you look at each side of the gear where the e-shaft goes through, one will be cut at an angle on the edge. That side toward the engine.
James
#31
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5k? No, it's more like 10k when all is said and done. Besides this is not the part of the forum for v8 discussion so leave it out of here as most people in here wouldn't consider doing a v8 swap.
V8 swap = death to the rx-7
V8 swap = death to the rx-7
#32
Haven't we ALL heard this
Thread Starter
Not in a million years....never...never
But thanks for the good luck part
Edit - Yeah, it is an option to consider...just not my stick...
James
But thanks for the good luck part
Edit - Yeah, it is an option to consider...just not my stick...
James
Last edited by Wankel7; 12-19-04 at 12:34 PM.
#36
Haven't we ALL heard this
Thread Starter
I wish I knew...the timing equipment was focking up.
Atkins Streetported Engine
Upgraded stock turbo
TO4E-46
Ported wastegate
8° Exhaust clip
TB Mod
Apex N1 Dual
Mid Pipe
RP DP - With exhaust wrap
Walbro High Flow Fuel Pump
Water Temp, Boost, Oil Temp, Oil Pres, Air intake temp
Techedge wideband
HKS FCD
S-AFC
Atkins Streetported Engine
Upgraded stock turbo
TO4E-46
Ported wastegate
8° Exhaust clip
TB Mod
Apex N1 Dual
Mid Pipe
RP DP - With exhaust wrap
Walbro High Flow Fuel Pump
Water Temp, Boost, Oil Temp, Oil Pres, Air intake temp
Techedge wideband
HKS FCD
S-AFC
#37
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
didn't read all the posts but...
the only seals that i know of that do the least amount of damage are carbon seals.
the CAS gear, there is 2 beveled edges, one small one larger, the larger bevel goes towards the engine.
the bearings look fine, nothing is missing int hat first picture.
you were pushing past the redline and admitted to having detonation at times, the engine likely let go because it wasn't feeling very good, probably not about the rebuild but about the tuning of it.
the only seals that i know of that do the least amount of damage are carbon seals.
the CAS gear, there is 2 beveled edges, one small one larger, the larger bevel goes towards the engine.
the bearings look fine, nothing is missing int hat first picture.
you were pushing past the redline and admitted to having detonation at times, the engine likely let go because it wasn't feeling very good, probably not about the rebuild but about the tuning of it.
#39
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Originally Posted by Wankel7
Thanks for the input man. I am not trying to say it was poor build quality...I said "I am not \mad at Aktins or looking to scare people away from them. There are just to many variables on why my engine let go. Most prob. lying in my engine bay."
I know why it let go...it was all me
I understand this is my first time and that is why I am on here asking questions with pictures. Thanks for the info on the bluing.
Two new rotor housings are already part of the plan.
What makes a rotor not reusable? I haven't found any info on here from threads. Is it basicly any gouges from a seal letting go?
Thanks for the info guys!
I know why it let go...it was all me
I understand this is my first time and that is why I am on here asking questions with pictures. Thanks for the info on the bluing.
Two new rotor housings are already part of the plan.
What makes a rotor not reusable? I haven't found any info on here from threads. Is it basicly any gouges from a seal letting go?
Thanks for the info guys!
sorry i was a bit harsh,.. your first post just seemed like you were pointing out things you thought atkins did wrong.
It's best not to excite the noobs is all,... theyll be taking about how atkins uses blue shafts that arnt good and leaves out thrust plates for ages if you hint at it..
you could theoretically use it,.. but i wouldnt,.. unless it was just a crap-thrown together-to-make-something-that-runs motor. If you were to do this youd need to carefully measure the griooves as a seal breaking usually totaly screws their clearences up.
In general if theres any damage to the rotor at all trash it,.. the gouges can become hotspots, and while you can lessen this by fileing them as smooth a possible i still wouldnt do it. Also, you have a chunk or apex seal embeded in your rotor,.. this could dislodge at a latter date and blow the motor again,..,... i REALLY wouldnt re use it if you want a motor that does more then just run for a few thousand miles.
#40
Lives on the Forum
HOLY CRAP!
That's the worst pic I've ever seen of an apex seal "failing"!
From my limited knowledge of metallurgy, those seals are soft; no wonder they don't recommend them for high boost or high power applications...geez!
-Ted
That's the worst pic I've ever seen of an apex seal "failing"!
From my limited knowledge of metallurgy, those seals are soft; no wonder they don't recommend them for high boost or high power applications...geez!
-Ted
#41
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by Wankel7
My first question is ... how do you know to align the CAS gear...this is how it was when I pulled the front cover. The FSM said the Camfered side towards the engine....camfered?
You can't tell from that pic.
Here is the stuff in the front cover. It seems like there is a spacer missing in the order of things? There was still a spacer in the engine my finger is point to.
There is what is left of my rear rotor apex seal.
How much boost were you running?
Were you running a wide-band?
EGT?
How much power?
Here is the rotor tip it came out of. Not nearly as bad as I thought. IE...maybe the rotor is still good?
Here is the porting job that Atkins did. I asked for a streetport. Is that what I got?
Front housing secondaries:
Front housing secondaries:
It looks like they do not increase any overlap - i.e. earlier port opening.
I would like the closing edge to have been bevelled to save the side seals.
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/TNT/JISS/jiss.html
Intermediate housings primaries:
The other thing that concerened me was blueing on the E-Shaft. Is that a concern?
That is production marks from heat treating the e-shaft.
-Ted
#42
Haven't we ALL heard this
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by drago86
sorry i was a bit harsh,.. your first post just seemed like you were pointing out things you thought atkins did wrong.
It's best not to excite the noobs is all,... theyll be taking about how atkins uses blue shafts that arnt good and leaves out thrust plates for ages if you hint at it..
you could theoretically use it,.. but i wouldnt,.. unless it was just a crap-thrown together-to-make-something-that-runs motor. If you were to do this youd need to carefully measure the griooves as a seal breaking usually totaly screws their clearences up.
In general if theres any damage to the rotor at all trash it,.. the gouges can become hotspots, and while you can lessen this by fileing them as smooth a possible i still wouldnt do it. Also, you have a chunk or apex seal embeded in your rotor,.. this could dislodge at a latter date and blow the motor again,..,... i REALLY wouldnt re use it if you want a motor that does more then just run for a few thousand miles.
It's best not to excite the noobs is all,... theyll be taking about how atkins uses blue shafts that arnt good and leaves out thrust plates for ages if you hint at it..
you could theoretically use it,.. but i wouldnt,.. unless it was just a crap-thrown together-to-make-something-that-runs motor. If you were to do this youd need to carefully measure the griooves as a seal breaking usually totaly screws their clearences up.
In general if theres any damage to the rotor at all trash it,.. the gouges can become hotspots, and while you can lessen this by fileing them as smooth a possible i still wouldnt do it. Also, you have a chunk or apex seal embeded in your rotor,.. this could dislodge at a latter date and blow the motor again,..,... i REALLY wouldnt re use it if you want a motor that does more then just run for a few thousand miles.
Yeah, that one picture with the seal embeded in the rotor. I could flake it out with a finger nail. I really need to clean the carbo off to see how deep the gouges really do run. Oddly enough...there is not ONE spot on the rear rotor housing that will snag my finger nail. Seems to be a popular test here Those seals must be soft. I found little bits of seal in my exhaust manifold they were all balled up. I do not want this motor to go quick again. I know these new rotor housings are going to be expensive and I don't want to waste housings because I know they dont grow on trees.
Unfotrunally, I wont be able to work on the engine till Jan
Thanks again for your input!
#44
Haven't we ALL heard this
Thread Starter
ReTed - Thanks for the input! Much appreciated!
I have no idea on the power however it ran a 13.72 at the track (MPH unknown) but I would guess 105 or lower based on previous runs.
Just had installed the EGT and the car had run about 30 minutes with it installed before I blew it.
Running 12 psi when it blew. Before that it was about 14 psi of boost. AFRs were no
Thanks for the info on the secondary ports to protect the side seals. I looked at your link and that makes allot of sense. Cleaning that closing part of the port seems like something I can tackle my self. I didn't even want to get near my ports because I know that is over my head
Thanks!
James
I have no idea on the power however it ran a 13.72 at the track (MPH unknown) but I would guess 105 or lower based on previous runs.
Just had installed the EGT and the car had run about 30 minutes with it installed before I blew it.
Running 12 psi when it blew. Before that it was about 14 psi of boost. AFRs were no
Thanks for the info on the secondary ports to protect the side seals. I looked at your link and that makes allot of sense. Cleaning that closing part of the port seems like something I can tackle my self. I didn't even want to get near my ports because I know that is over my head
Thanks!
James
#45
Haven't we ALL heard this
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by vipers
about the gouged rotor.......... wouldnt having a gouged rotor make it off balanced, and therefore unusable (or having a piece of apex seal stuck in it)??? not a statement.... just a question....
James
#46
Haven't we ALL heard this
Thread Starter
Found my AFR logging fun.
Never was correlated to RPM but it was from about 4000rpm on up to 7000ish under wideopen.
James
Never was correlated to RPM but it was from about 4000rpm on up to 7000ish under wideopen.
James
Last edited by Wankel7; 12-19-04 at 11:00 PM.
#48
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (8)
My first question is ... how do you know to align the CAS gear...
Here is the stuff in the front cover. It seems like there is a spacer missing in the order of things? There was still a spacer in the engine
There is what is left of my rear rotor apex seal.
Here is the rotor tip it came out of. Not nearly as bad as I thought. IE...maybe the rotor is still good?
Here is the porting job that Atkins did. I asked for a streetport. Is that what I got?
The other thing that concerened me was blueing on the E-Shaft. Is that a concern?
I thought Atkins seals did not do damage if they blow?
From what I heard about bearings if you see brass that is a big problem
I dont know what kinda housings they used in the build. On the bottom of the rotor housings there are compression numbers written in bar and at the rpm. I can't remember specfic numbers but they were all between 9.3-10.3. So, according to those numbers it had good compression when it left there. I am going to use new housings in my rebuild though.
I run all my rebuilds (that I do not personally install) on a test stand and compression test them before they leave.
I almost guarentee you kevin never said anything like that.
Perfect time to drop in an LS1 and run 11s for about 5K.
#50
Haven't we ALL heard this
Thread Starter
Man, thanks alot Kevin for the run down on ALL of my questions. That was great!
Could you expand on this one thing you said...
"When a 2pc seal breaks along it's length, it means the rotor tip clearance could be more than what it should be. Letting the seal rock side to side, bending right where you see the break in the center. IF the rotor tip clearance is looser than it should be, it places more stress on the seal, and eventually it'll break somewhere, but they usually hold up longer than that. "
When you say rotor tip clearance you mean the clearance between the rotor tip and the housing?
Or the clearnace of the apex seal inside the rotor tip?
Thanks again!
James
If I didn't have such motivation to do this rebuild myself...my rebuild would be rolling your way
Could you expand on this one thing you said...
"When a 2pc seal breaks along it's length, it means the rotor tip clearance could be more than what it should be. Letting the seal rock side to side, bending right where you see the break in the center. IF the rotor tip clearance is looser than it should be, it places more stress on the seal, and eventually it'll break somewhere, but they usually hold up longer than that. "
When you say rotor tip clearance you mean the clearance between the rotor tip and the housing?
Or the clearnace of the apex seal inside the rotor tip?
Thanks again!
James
If I didn't have such motivation to do this rebuild myself...my rebuild would be rolling your way