***help***
#1
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***help***
Have anybody heard of the car after the car warms up if its turn off when you try to turn in back on it wont turn on... can anybody give me suggestion on what could it be!!
#2
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how long was it running before you shut it off? when you try to start does it just crank? after it cools down does it start fine? what year is the car? turbo or n/a? need more specific info..
#3
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im sorry but that is such a vague discription of nothing. sit down and really think about what you want to say and about what is happening to your car and then ask the question when you have more info for us to go on. good luck
#5
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ok I have an Rx7 2nd gen GTU non turbo its 1989 the car turns on fine but when it warms up if it turn off its very hard to turn back on i took it to the mechanic and he said that I need a new engine... the mechanic doesn work often with rx7 and well i turn on the car and while is on it works fine... i dont know if maybe becuase there is major leak on the exhaust that can cause the engine to lose alot of power but i dont know if thats it... can you guys give me suggestion
#6
Retired Moderator, RIP
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So,you are saying that you can start it,but After you have ran the car,Once you shut it off,the car won't start up right away?
That would be a symptom of Leaky injectors,a Bad water thermo sensor on the back of the Water pump or God Forbid,Low compression(which means it is time to Hand over a Bucket of cash to get it rebuilt!).
you should look up "compression Check" with a regular piston engine compression tester..www.rotaryresurrection.com Try that site.
And If you are taking you car to people who have No EFFIN clue what they are working on(visa vie; the Rotary engine) then STOP IT!..you may just as well Get another car,as they will either Screw the car up worse,or Bill you for **** that isn't even affiliated with the Problem the car has.
The Best Suggestion that I can possibly give you is:go and Get a Cup of COFFEE,then click into the Sec Gen Archives,and start Reading..you have to get to know your Car,and If you don't,then it is just Money pissed in the Wind.
Work on your own car,as most mechanics won't touch a Rotary,as it Scares the crap out of them.,In reality it is just the same principles as a Piston engine..intake,compression.power,exhaust,Only done with Rotors,instead of pistons.
anyways,sorry If I come off being Nasty,but hey!,I'm gettin UP in age and everything Pisses me off!
..But anything that HAS gone wrong with a Rotary Engine,IS ON This FORUM!,,you just have to look for it..Good luck,it's a blast once the car is workin Good!.STYX!~
That would be a symptom of Leaky injectors,a Bad water thermo sensor on the back of the Water pump or God Forbid,Low compression(which means it is time to Hand over a Bucket of cash to get it rebuilt!).
you should look up "compression Check" with a regular piston engine compression tester..www.rotaryresurrection.com Try that site.
And If you are taking you car to people who have No EFFIN clue what they are working on(visa vie; the Rotary engine) then STOP IT!..you may just as well Get another car,as they will either Screw the car up worse,or Bill you for **** that isn't even affiliated with the Problem the car has.
The Best Suggestion that I can possibly give you is:go and Get a Cup of COFFEE,then click into the Sec Gen Archives,and start Reading..you have to get to know your Car,and If you don't,then it is just Money pissed in the Wind.
Work on your own car,as most mechanics won't touch a Rotary,as it Scares the crap out of them.,In reality it is just the same principles as a Piston engine..intake,compression.power,exhaust,Only done with Rotors,instead of pistons.
anyways,sorry If I come off being Nasty,but hey!,I'm gettin UP in age and everything Pisses me off!
..But anything that HAS gone wrong with a Rotary Engine,IS ON This FORUM!,,you just have to look for it..Good luck,it's a blast once the car is workin Good!.STYX!~
#7
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Lame lame lame *** thread title. Please put a description of your question in the thread title.
As per the BIG annoucement at the top of this section, that says: READ BEFORE POSTING
As per the BIG annoucement at the top of this section, that says: READ BEFORE POSTING
* Thread subjects/titles should be descriptive and clear, and specifically refer to the contents of the thread.
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#10
1308ccs of awesome
iTrader: (9)
+1
to make it easier to start, when you turn it off rev it up to like 3 or 4 and then turn the key off when it's revved up.
this will take the pressure out of the fuel lines and make the injectors not leak as much so it'll be easier to start.
EDIT: and also, you really should use better subjects in the future, most people (especially the really smart ones) just ignore threads with poor non-descriptive titles.
#11
Clean.
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Whenever this happens, pop the hood and pull the EGI INJ fuse. Then crank. That should clear the flood. Put the fuse back and see if it starts. If not, clear it again.
If this isn't a rare event, try to find the cause. IIRC failure to start when the car is shut off warm is a sign of bad compression. Check the compression. If that's bad, you just gotta live with the flooding until you want to rebuild the engine for mucha moola. You could install a fuel cut switch to make clearing floods easier in the meantime. If compression is good, try to find out why you're getting so much fuel in there.
If this isn't a rare event, try to find the cause. IIRC failure to start when the car is shut off warm is a sign of bad compression. Check the compression. If that's bad, you just gotta live with the flooding until you want to rebuild the engine for mucha moola. You could install a fuel cut switch to make clearing floods easier in the meantime. If compression is good, try to find out why you're getting so much fuel in there.
#12
Trunk Ornament
iTrader: (11)
Fuel pump cutoffs are BAND-FREAKIN-AIDS!!!
There's obviously a reason why it's doing this. Check this out: Check fuel pressure by popping off the fuel supply hose, splice in a tee fitting, and put a fuel gauge on it. Run the engine, snap the throttle a couple times. If the fuel pressure rises each time the throttle opens, the fuel pressure regulator is good. Sweet, now turn it off. Does pressure stay around what it was? Does it slowly trickle down to very low pressure? If so, you probably have a leaky injector.
Other things to check: Water thermo sensor. It's on the back of the thermostat housing. Make sure it's plugged in. Pull the connector and see if the little brass/copper lugs are still in the connector, making contact with the sensor. If not, it'll default to a failsafe, and it'll start just fine when cold, then suck to start hot. This problem beat my *** for a year before figuring that one out. I was so close to installing a fuel cutout switch, but I HATE BAND AIDS!!!!!!!! Compression is also definitely a culprit. Like they said, search "compression test" to see how it's done, and find out if it's low. You may have to rebuild, and if that's the case, take it easy on your car until you can afford it, and for God's sake, rebuild before it blows. It's cheaper, trust me.
And your topic... it fails. Be more descriptive next time. If it weren't for the drag-over preview feature, I would have skipped it.
There's obviously a reason why it's doing this. Check this out: Check fuel pressure by popping off the fuel supply hose, splice in a tee fitting, and put a fuel gauge on it. Run the engine, snap the throttle a couple times. If the fuel pressure rises each time the throttle opens, the fuel pressure regulator is good. Sweet, now turn it off. Does pressure stay around what it was? Does it slowly trickle down to very low pressure? If so, you probably have a leaky injector.
Other things to check: Water thermo sensor. It's on the back of the thermostat housing. Make sure it's plugged in. Pull the connector and see if the little brass/copper lugs are still in the connector, making contact with the sensor. If not, it'll default to a failsafe, and it'll start just fine when cold, then suck to start hot. This problem beat my *** for a year before figuring that one out. I was so close to installing a fuel cutout switch, but I HATE BAND AIDS!!!!!!!! Compression is also definitely a culprit. Like they said, search "compression test" to see how it's done, and find out if it's low. You may have to rebuild, and if that's the case, take it easy on your car until you can afford it, and for God's sake, rebuild before it blows. It's cheaper, trust me.
And your topic... it fails. Be more descriptive next time. If it weren't for the drag-over preview feature, I would have skipped it.