*** How to Questions ***
08-30-07, 07:22 AM
#1
Rx7 with Civic Si Engine!
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*** How to Questions ***
Okay, I"ve searched around and have no luck, i wanna get everything right when removing air condition, i dont want to remove the wrong things.
So my question is,
Where should i begin on removing Air condition & Power Steering Pump.
So my question is,
Where should i begin on removing Air condition & Power Steering Pump.
08-30-07, 08:23 AM
#2
You're removing both at the same time?
Including the power steering rack as well?
*The following assumes that your bay is stock i.e., factory airbox, fan, shroud, etc., and there is no coolant in the AC system...*
-Start at the front of the car, remove the coolant overflow tank, the air shrouds from the area around the hood latch and the hood latch itself.
-Remove the airbox, AFM and the air intake duct.
-Drain the coolant and remove the clutch fan, shroud and radiator.
-Remove the battery and it's box/tray.
-Remove the sway bar
-Counterintuitively, I found it easier to remove the AC first.
Starting at the passenger side of the firewall, unscrew the AC lines where they connect to the interior and just continue forward, undoing as you go. Remove the drier and the AC condenser (which will lift up and out) and continue back down the driver's side removing the line that's left.
Unbolt the line(s) from the AC compressor (you can now remove the last big line that runs across the firewall).
The compressor is held to the bracket with four bolts (two top and two bottom).
I was lucky, mine were easily undone with a wrench and the compressor pulled out.
-Now that the AC compressor is gone you can undo the soft line from below the PS pump and drain the fluid (this is going to be messy, prepare for more to escape as you remove the rest of the system). Unbolt the lines from the pump and remove.
-Unscrew the lines from the steering rack quill area (no need to remove the hard lines that span the rack itself) and remove the hardline loop that goes above the oil cooler.
-After undoing the tierod ends and the steering shaft, the steering rack can be removed.
-Now the engine bracket that held the pump and compressor can be unbolted.
You'll have hours of fun cleaning that side of the motor and engine bay- it's guaranteed to be nasty since it was all but inaccessible previously.
But wait! There's more!
-Inside the car now, undo the dash panel below the glovebox.
-Remove the PS computer
-Remove the plastic box that holds the AC exchanger(?), there are three nuts and two clamps.
-Pop the clips that hold the box together and pull the guts out. Reassemble the now empty box and block the three holes (two for the exchanger and one for the drain)- I used rubber body plugs but duct tape would probably work in a pinch.
Reinstall the box.
*If you are incredibly fortunate you may be able to locate the duct that connects the blower motor and the heater core on non-AC equipped cars (I was not) in which case the box is not needed.
Lacking this duct, the box is necessary or there is no connection between the blower motor and the rest of the heater system- this is also why you plugged the holes in the box, so the blown air wouldn't escape.
-Plug the three now open holes in the firewall with body plugs (every car in the junkyard has these in abundance so they're easy to source...).
Done!
I just did this a few days ago...working at a leisurely pace it took about four hours but I had no stripped/broken/frozen hardware to contend with.
YMMV.
Including the power steering rack as well?
*The following assumes that your bay is stock i.e., factory airbox, fan, shroud, etc., and there is no coolant in the AC system...*
-Start at the front of the car, remove the coolant overflow tank, the air shrouds from the area around the hood latch and the hood latch itself.
-Remove the airbox, AFM and the air intake duct.
-Drain the coolant and remove the clutch fan, shroud and radiator.
-Remove the battery and it's box/tray.
-Remove the sway bar
-Counterintuitively, I found it easier to remove the AC first.
Starting at the passenger side of the firewall, unscrew the AC lines where they connect to the interior and just continue forward, undoing as you go. Remove the drier and the AC condenser (which will lift up and out) and continue back down the driver's side removing the line that's left.
Unbolt the line(s) from the AC compressor (you can now remove the last big line that runs across the firewall).
The compressor is held to the bracket with four bolts (two top and two bottom).
I was lucky, mine were easily undone with a wrench and the compressor pulled out.
-Now that the AC compressor is gone you can undo the soft line from below the PS pump and drain the fluid (this is going to be messy, prepare for more to escape as you remove the rest of the system). Unbolt the lines from the pump and remove.
-Unscrew the lines from the steering rack quill area (no need to remove the hard lines that span the rack itself) and remove the hardline loop that goes above the oil cooler.
-After undoing the tierod ends and the steering shaft, the steering rack can be removed.
-Now the engine bracket that held the pump and compressor can be unbolted.
You'll have hours of fun cleaning that side of the motor and engine bay- it's guaranteed to be nasty since it was all but inaccessible previously.
But wait! There's more!
-Inside the car now, undo the dash panel below the glovebox.
-Remove the PS computer
-Remove the plastic box that holds the AC exchanger(?), there are three nuts and two clamps.
-Pop the clips that hold the box together and pull the guts out. Reassemble the now empty box and block the three holes (two for the exchanger and one for the drain)- I used rubber body plugs but duct tape would probably work in a pinch.
Reinstall the box.
*If you are incredibly fortunate you may be able to locate the duct that connects the blower motor and the heater core on non-AC equipped cars (I was not) in which case the box is not needed.
Lacking this duct, the box is necessary or there is no connection between the blower motor and the rest of the heater system- this is also why you plugged the holes in the box, so the blown air wouldn't escape.
-Plug the three now open holes in the firewall with body plugs (every car in the junkyard has these in abundance so they're easy to source...).
Done!
I just did this a few days ago...working at a leisurely pace it took about four hours but I had no stripped/broken/frozen hardware to contend with.
YMMV.
Last edited by clokker; 08-30-07 at 08:33 AM.
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