Yeaaaaaaaaa powdercoat :D
Yeaaaaaaaaa powdercoat :D
Well since im rebuilding the car I decided to powder coat some things ... heres a few pieces ... lots more are being done.
Here's a sneak peak
Here's a sneak peak
yea kevins is sick.
kevin yo know you are #1 in line for my business, but I couldn't wait til ya came down here to pick my car up
If I'm able to make it up to NC the first week of April for the Dragon I'll swing by on my way back down
kevin yo know you are #1 in line for my business, but I couldn't wait til ya came down here to pick my car up

If I'm able to make it up to NC the first week of April for the Dragon I'll swing by on my way back down
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What did you use?
I saw a craftsman powdercoating machine and the powder at sears the other day. I was tempted to get it and see if it worked good. It was only $200 or so.
Do you think you could powder coat parts of your engine with it still in the engine bay and just cover other stuff up?
I saw a craftsman powdercoating machine and the powder at sears the other day. I was tempted to get it and see if it worked good. It was only $200 or so.
Do you think you could powder coat parts of your engine with it still in the engine bay and just cover other stuff up?
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
PC is not like spraypaint. You have to have each part off, down to the bare metal. Like in the case of an alternator, there can be no electrical, plastic or rubber internals or externals left in place. You have to pretty much disassemble each part down to it's simplest form.
You have to prep the parts, usually by beadblasting and then rinsing, blowing dry with air, and wiping off with a chemical agent.
Then, any mating surfaces, threaded holes, etc. get masked, plugged, and capped off to keep the coating out. As you know if you've watched hotrod buildup shows on TV like american chopper, if powdercoat gets in the wrong places, it is a BITCH to get out, and nothing fits right again. Powdercoat is thicker and stronger than paint.
Then the part gets preheated for several minutes near 400*. Then removed and the coating sprayed. Then the part gets baked for about 15-20 minutes near 400*. This is what makes the coating turn from powder to gel, liquify and flow evenly across the surface leaving a glossy finish. This is also what makes it hard and tough.
You have to prep the parts, usually by beadblasting and then rinsing, blowing dry with air, and wiping off with a chemical agent.
Then, any mating surfaces, threaded holes, etc. get masked, plugged, and capped off to keep the coating out. As you know if you've watched hotrod buildup shows on TV like american chopper, if powdercoat gets in the wrong places, it is a BITCH to get out, and nothing fits right again. Powdercoat is thicker and stronger than paint.
Then the part gets preheated for several minutes near 400*. Then removed and the coating sprayed. Then the part gets baked for about 15-20 minutes near 400*. This is what makes the coating turn from powder to gel, liquify and flow evenly across the surface leaving a glossy finish. This is also what makes it hard and tough.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
That's one thing I can say...I am pretty meticulous about masking/capping/plugging things that do not need coated. Part of it probably comes from the fact that I work with these same parts and know what can and cannot be coated. But as a rule, any holes and mating surfaces should be protected, even if you dont know what they are used for.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
No, not a bad idea at all. Won't affect anything. But it will wear off over time, depending on how tight the belts are.
Areas like that would be very difficult to try and mask anyway, and you don't really know exactly where the belt would ride/how far to mask. I'd rather let the belt cut it's own path after installation, than to have a gap in the coating where it can be seen.
Areas like that would be very difficult to try and mask anyway, and you don't really know exactly where the belt would ride/how far to mask. I'd rather let the belt cut it's own path after installation, than to have a gap in the coating where it can be seen.
exactly .. that was one of my concerns originally, but then i thought about it logically and realized it will wear pretty quickly with the amount of revolutions generated from the pulleys on the belt
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Looking at the pics again, did they coat over all the threaded studs on the LIM, and all the gasket mating surfaces? IF they did, they are a bunch of rookies. I am not a pro coater, but I know better than that. Once those studs are coated, it's more likely they would snap in half before you could get a nut to thread onto them because of the thickness of coating. And the coating is not perfectly flat once applied, so it's a no-no to coat flat machined mating surfaces because they won't seal as well afterwards.






