The only place I've found in my town is a diesel shop with a mustang dyno.
The guy wants $80 a pull and has no wide band or egt sensors
Is this normal?

 

100 for 3 pulls with wideband on a dynojet.

 

its probably $80 for 3 pulls, they need to get paid for strapping the car down

wideband is usually extra, you can bring your own if you dont agree with it, none of the 3 dynos I have been to have offered EGT sensors

I have paid $75-$100 to strap down and $100-$150 per hour for tuning time with my own tuner, another shop I was using the guy to tune a V8 car of mine so the dyno time was included.

"dyno-day" specials are usually $50 for 3 pulls so $80 isnt bad at all

 

RP told me $200 to tune a **** style power FC, plus dyno time and welding in a bung for the wideband that they provide.

 

Well dang I guess gettin off easy
I won't dyno until I get a wide band I guess
Not sure on how to go about that since I'm running a long primary collected before the muffler.
Is there a wide band I can run that far back
I don't really wanna pull A/F ratio from one rotor do I ?

 

Get your tuning done on the street, I tune part time to supplement my income. In the end I produce reliable results that only need 3 pulls on a dyno to finish everything off. This is my suggestion if pricing is an issue.

 

You cant skimp on tuning, this is one area you cant be cheap

 

I guess i should rephrase this...

dyno time and welding the bung was included in the $200.

 

and it has to be a GOOD wideband, not a BS one

you are better off just getting a bung and letting the tuner use his wideband than a cheap one, a cheap one is worthless.
You can even just remove the O2 sensor and let him put his wideband in there for the tuning, this is what I did every time I went. Now I have a good wideband so its no longer needed. Also makes for great highway tuning.

 

Most of the shops around here charge 50 bucks for 3 pulls I've heard.

 

any wideband will run fine further back. you can tune from one rotor too, although you have to make sure you use the leaner/hotter one, because there are no backsies

 

Well my bung is on the rear rotor right by the firewall maybe 10 inches back.
I have another weld in bung I wanna put after the collector about 120 inches back.
If I find an appropriate wide band.
AEM alright?
I know it's kinda vain but I'd like one with an orange analog style to match my gauges

 

120" back???

Ngk afx is what you want. A wideband display will drive you crazy i leave it in the glove box and check it from time to time

 

wow i pay 80 for an hour as many pulls as i want. And i bring my own tuner.

 

You need to make friends with a dyno operator. Most of the "$80 for three pulls" people are serving people who have no intention on tuning the car but only want a few power pulls.

If you intend to tune the car, you will spend hours on the dyno and make up to 100 pulls.

We used to have two dynos in London. One operated by a sort of hot rod fab shop and I knew the owner. I could spend hours on the dyno for a few hundred dollars, left to my own devices to tune the car and run the dyno.

On the other side of the coin, there is another shop in London called RSP that deals with high end cars (mainly Porsche). Dyno time on their dyno could run into the thousands for a few pulls as they will try to sell you extra services, datalogging, videos of the events, charge extra for wideband service, and then charge a significant amount for each "tuning pull". I nearly broke out laughing when I picked up their brochure at a local car show. Then again, they have to pay for that amazing dyno cell they have. Hardwood floors and everything.

It all depends on who has the equipment.

With good datalogging and someone to drive, a big hill on a backroad works as well as a dyno.

 

Please tell me your joking, that is ubber retarded. But i will certainly agree that tuning is the #1 thing you never cheap out on.

 

As far as data logging and tuning goes. I'm still on the stock ECU for the moment.
So all i can really do are small timing adjustments,injector swaps,intake manafold swaps, some AFM buggery, and see what works best

Also I'm pretty sure my 5/6 ports ain't doin **** on my half bridge and want to confirm it

Still wondering if I should atleast get a super afc or neo, you only can pull fuel out right?

I do have a set of 460s 550s and 680s to play with

A part of me still thinks I can squeak out 200 on a stock ECU
Well see this summer I spose

 

Whats to joke about?
You go on a dyno in another shop and they have to get a minimum for strapping down and an hour of use. Strapping it down, calibrating it for your car, correction factor, taking your car off the machine, etc. at that point if you are ten minutes or one hour its the same set up and break down for them.


i would not expect them to purchase an expensive machine like that and be giving away its use.
People need to understand geography plays a part in dyno fees, its expensive to operate here on LI, so tell me felix where do you go to dyno and what are their fees maybe i could save some money

 

I never been part of the dyno club so i am of no help. I been to a few dyno days and thats about it. Im aware dynos arent cheap and money needs to be made. I have never heard having to pay to strap it down, i figured you pay for the dyno time plus data logging, egt's and whatever.

I havent heard someone say "well we strapped your car down...thats $100" It takes all of 5min to get the car on the dyno and strap it down. You shouldnt be charged for just for strapping alone, that should be involved with the dyno time.

Example: a female takes her car to jiffy lube for an oil change (because men wouldnt do such a thing) And she gets her oil changed. Lets say on the bill you see... 1: $6 to drain oil 2: $6 to remove/replace filter 3: $6 to fill fresh oil.

Now that doesnt sound right does it? She should be changed a flat price for the oil change, not charged for every small step that is done. Thus being charged for a strap down is uncool. But thats life right? Can't win all the time!

 

Your misunderstanding, when i say strapping down i mean there is a minimim charge, usually an hour, for the reasons i listed. No one ever told me "im charging you $xx to strap the car down"

So for someone to get $80, as the OP stated, to do 3 pulls, the set up and break down is the same if he is on there for 3 pulls or for an hour of tuning so $80 really isnt all that bad

 

Ahh gotcha then. When i read your post saying "I pay $75-$100 to strap down" I was like say what? I took that the wrong way then.....good.