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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 09:06 PM
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Body work

So I am about to start sanding on the FC. I would like to know what your opinions are on the best sanding method. I have fiberglass body panels as well. Thanks in advance for the help.
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 09:40 PM
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Are you just prepping for paint, or doing some repair work?
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 10:01 PM
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From: tha burg
320g is a good place to start
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by kanundra
Are you just prepping for paint, or doing some repair work?
This ^ we need info on what you are doing? Are you prepping for paint or repairing the body or doing fiberglass repairs? Some photos of what you are attacking would also help.
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 07:18 AM
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Prepare for paint. What kind of sander do you recommend? I know once I get downs to metal do a finer grade. Looking to go metalic
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 10:32 AM
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Thanks for the info.

Get a DA (dual-action) sander, you can get electric or air powered ones. If you're just prepping for paint, here's what I recommend:

320 grit: Use on rough spots or areas that need to need blemishes repaired (rock chips).
500 grit: Use to feather out the above spots and to remove scratches
800 grit: Use to "scuff" paint, basically it removes the top shiny layer and allows paint to adhere to the surface.

Progressively work to the finer grit paper to remove the deeper cuts from the coarse paper. You don't need to go all the way down to the bare metal. If you want to, I suggest picking up a chemical remover such as Aircraft Remover. Be careful - that stuff is nasty. Also pick up some
3M scuff pads 3M scuff pads
to work the areas you can't get with paper like the edges.

Let me know if you have any more questions, I was a auto painter's apprentice for a while.
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by kanundra
Thanks for the info.

Get a DA (dual-action) sander, you can get electric or air powered ones. If you're just prepping for paint, here's what I recommend:

320 grit: Use on rough spots or areas that need to need blemishes repaired (rock chips).
500 grit: Use to feather out the above spots and to remove scratches
800 grit: Use to "scuff" paint, basically it removes the top shiny layer and allows paint to adhere to the surface.

Progressively work to the finer grit paper to remove the deeper cuts from the coarse paper. You don't need to go all the way down to the bare metal. If you want to, I suggest picking up a chemical remover such as Aircraft Remover. Be careful - that stuff is nasty. Also pick up some 3M scuff pads to work the areas you can't get with paper like the edges.

Let me know if you have any more questions, I was a auto painter's apprentice for a while.
This is all correct though you probably don't have to go as far as 800 grit.and though you are only painting it I'd still recommend priming it first. Sand whole car with 240 (if you want it really flat block all the big flat areas and then go over with the DA) wipe it down with prepsol, then primer it. Next day block it down with 320 then sand with DA using 500 and what, at work, we call fine pad or superfine (they are a 3m product and probably are the scuff pads above poster mentioned)do the areas the DA isn't suitable for. Again wipe it down and blow it off with a airgun.mask it all up and paint, hopefully in a spray booth

Last edited by ben.farnath; Oct 15, 2012 at 12:43 PM.
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 01:53 PM
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grits depend on the primer and paints you are putting on there, some primers will fill 100-180, some you cant sand coarser then 320

tech sheets for the products are available online and will give you the grits you need
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 07:32 PM
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What's up with the temperate rating. Is that for the paint booth?
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