6 Port Turbo, Megasquirt Build
#1
6 Port Turbo, Megasquirt Build
I am building a car for a local. Finally was able to start and get it to idle on a MS2 V3.
Car is running Walbro 255, 4x720cc injectors and Megasquirt for fuel and management.
Turbo is a China with a 1.15AR exhaust housing and .65 AR compressor housing. The turbo came with the car when he got it so we are going to run it and keep an eye on shaft play. If it gets out of spec it will get replaced with something reliable but for now since it was included with the car why not right?
Exhaust is full 3 inch stainless to duels. Heat wrapped headers and complete downpipe. LC1 for a wideband placed 32 inches down the downpipe.
Here is the first start video and some pictures. There was an exhaust leak at the time and the ECU was not getting a MAP signal. Once I fixed the MAP the car ran smooth as butter.
Enough words, here you go.
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Main relay and power blocks.
There is not many people using the stock 6 port intake manifold so here you are.
Also a picture from my old 6 port turbo build back when I was 17
Car is running Walbro 255, 4x720cc injectors and Megasquirt for fuel and management.
Turbo is a China with a 1.15AR exhaust housing and .65 AR compressor housing. The turbo came with the car when he got it so we are going to run it and keep an eye on shaft play. If it gets out of spec it will get replaced with something reliable but for now since it was included with the car why not right?
Exhaust is full 3 inch stainless to duels. Heat wrapped headers and complete downpipe. LC1 for a wideband placed 32 inches down the downpipe.
Here is the first start video and some pictures. There was an exhaust leak at the time and the ECU was not getting a MAP signal. Once I fixed the MAP the car ran smooth as butter.
Enough words, here you go.
<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/7AlqxIpexXk&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/7AlqxIpexXk&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>
Main relay and power blocks.
There is not many people using the stock 6 port intake manifold so here you are.
Also a picture from my old 6 port turbo build back when I was 17
#13
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cool man workin on the same setup but street port and rtek two questions tho where did you tap for the oil feed i see you have the drain goin to the pan directly?. are you useing any aux port sleeve for better flow?
#16
I will take photos as soon as possible.
No Aux port sleeves although I was working on a custom pair in the past. I may bring the project back and see what I can make of them.
Thank you very much for the positive support. Its rare to see a thread not get flamed down one way or another around here.
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thanks man i was tring to figure how I was goin to do that. i will be useing a ported turbo manifold with turbo oil filler neck so i can slap on my fd turbo easy.
one more question are you running a knock sensor and if so where is it mounted?
one more question are you running a knock sensor and if so where is it mounted?
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"Also a picture from my old 6 port turbo build back when I was 17 "
wow I wish I had a turbo rx7 when I was 17 lol
nice build though! Can you send me a pm of a wiring diagram or something on how you wired up the battery in the back? please
wow I wish I had a turbo rx7 when I was 17 lol
nice build though! Can you send me a pm of a wiring diagram or something on how you wired up the battery in the back? please
#20
-Chriz88DX
First to answer your previous question. Yes the drain line goes directly to the pan. -10 AN bung welded to the pan with a perfect seal.
No knock sensor, just a slow conservative tune.
Ask as many questions as you would like.
-infinite7z
As soon as I find the time I will make you and and others a detailed write up on the electrical system. If you are in a hurry for it I can get you something quick and in less quality by tomorrow PM.
-TheAbsence
The block was not removed from the car during the process. Only external modifications were made. As far as boost, I plan to run the injectors up to 75% duty cycle and whatever it lands us at we will be happy with.
First to answer your previous question. Yes the drain line goes directly to the pan. -10 AN bung welded to the pan with a perfect seal.
No knock sensor, just a slow conservative tune.
Ask as many questions as you would like.
-infinite7z
As soon as I find the time I will make you and and others a detailed write up on the electrical system. If you are in a hurry for it I can get you something quick and in less quality by tomorrow PM.
-TheAbsence
The block was not removed from the car during the process. Only external modifications were made. As far as boost, I plan to run the injectors up to 75% duty cycle and whatever it lands us at we will be happy with.
#21
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-Chriz88DX
First to answer your previous question. Yes the drain line goes directly to the pan. -10 AN bung welded to the pan with a perfect seal.
No knock sensor, just a slow conservative tune.
Ask as many questions as you would like.
-infinite7z
As soon as I find the time I will make you and and others a detailed write up on the electrical system. If you are in a hurry for it I can get you something quick and in less quality by tomorrow PM.
-TheAbsence
The block was not removed from the car during the process. Only external modifications were made. As far as boost, I plan to run the injectors up to 75% duty cycle and whatever it lands us at we will be happy with.
First to answer your previous question. Yes the drain line goes directly to the pan. -10 AN bung welded to the pan with a perfect seal.
No knock sensor, just a slow conservative tune.
Ask as many questions as you would like.
-infinite7z
As soon as I find the time I will make you and and others a detailed write up on the electrical system. If you are in a hurry for it I can get you something quick and in less quality by tomorrow PM.
-TheAbsence
The block was not removed from the car during the process. Only external modifications were made. As far as boost, I plan to run the injectors up to 75% duty cycle and whatever it lands us at we will be happy with.
interesting this is making me want to run mega squirt instead lol. but i already have a rtek so i will have to use the factory knock sensor.
have you driven a 4 port turbo? if so how does it compare to the 6 port?
my guess would be that the 4 port may have more lowend get up and the 6 port turbo would have more power in higher rpms. but the 6 port turbo should be able to run less boost pressure to put out the same horsepower.
#25
-Chriz88DX
The higher compression makes the low end a little better off. I have not driven a 4 port turbo. But stock for stock with turbo, the 6 port is a better option in my opinion. More stock port space, higher compression but still not enough to be considered "High". The car is real drivable not much worse then a N/A 6 port with the actuators removed.
Lots of pictures taken today. Ill get that battery relocation write up done soon.
The higher compression makes the low end a little better off. I have not driven a 4 port turbo. But stock for stock with turbo, the 6 port is a better option in my opinion. More stock port space, higher compression but still not enough to be considered "High". The car is real drivable not much worse then a N/A 6 port with the actuators removed.
Lots of pictures taken today. Ill get that battery relocation write up done soon.