I spotted an Energy Suspension Polyurethane bushing set (Part no. 11.18101G) for sale local to me for a good price. It appears all the components are still in the original packaging, includes grease, instruction booklet and the box. Looks like it was purchased but never installed. I'm pretty sure I will go pick it up this weekend since my bushings are either cooked or are probably original. I've read through some how to threads have a good idea of what I'm getting into.

The only thing I was wondering about, is there any bushings that should stay OEM because of binding or some other problem?

 

In my younger years, the mantra was always Poly Everything.
As i get older, I'm less about the compromises that come with harsher suspension to chase a slightly tighter behaving car.
Do you plan to street drive this almost exclusively? Will you ever be pushing the car to the limits?
My opinion, and others may disagree, is that MOST of the bushings in the car should be OEM, or OEM+ (like the mazda-performance mounts). There are a few areas where this rule may not apply, such as the DTSS bushings, but overall I'm just not willing to sacrifice NVH in chasing a slight improvement for a street car.

However, having said that: Refreshed poly bushing > worn out rubber bushings.

 

I think the primary end goals for the car are primarily street, with some hard driving through the summer months. I totally understand the ride quality compromise perspective. Interesting about the DTSS bushings. Is the idea to try to dampen (get it?) the effect of DTSS?

I honestly haven't even driven the car with the stock and worn out bushings...yet. I have no perspective on what kind of a difference I'd be looking at. This kit is at a price point that I'm thinking about putting them in just to move the project along. If it's too harsh I can come back and swap some out for some fresh OEM ones when I can't stand it any more.

 

On the FC the only bushing in the kit you definitely shouldnt use is the rear semi trailing arm bushing.

Its semi trailing arm because it has multi axis movement unlike a trailing arm suspension.

When you put poly in the front of the rear trailing arm it causes suspension binding and you will have worse traction over undulations/bumps.

Dont use #6

Dont do this-

 

Thank you, that's super helpful. Definitely want to avoid annoying binding noises.