Installing S2 RX8 6-Speed in an FC
#26
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
For me, the #1 issue is availability. There is absolutely no way I will find a TII transmission local to me in the bible belt. Everyone in California, New Jersey, and Florida has them, and very few of those people are willing to ship. I considered using the CD009 from the 350Z. Those seem to be able to handle the abuse of moderate power and high-rpm shifting. But getting one swapped in would be around $2000. I can't justify that. But seeing that there are plenty of RX8s in junkyards around me or people are LS swapping them, those transmissions are available for relatively low cost. I got mine, including RX8 starter, alternator, and a slew of other parts I didn't even need, for $160! And no fooling around with custom bell housings or any of that mess!
#28
Full Member
Thread Starter
She dynoed at 291whp/244tq last year. That was with 2.5" downpipe/midpipe to 2" duals. I'm running 3" to 2.5" duals now at the same boost level, so we're probably closer to 300whp now. How far have you gotten into your swap?
#29
Nicee... I just relocated the shifter so far.....engine is out atm so I going to try and mount engine and box together... How you like the box so far?
#30
Full Member
Thread Starter
Sounds like you're making good progress! Keep us updated on it.
I'm loving it! Shifting is so smooth, and the gearing paired with the 3.9 differential is perfect in my opinion. I can get halfway through third gear at my local autocross.
#32
Full Member
Thread Starter
Wow, I'm loving all the custom fabrication! That's some great work! I got my BW S360 in the car just a few weeks ago, and I have to say I'm very happy with it. I'm elated that my home-built manifold hasn't taken a dump on me yet even after an autocross event. It looks like you're headed for higher territory though.
#33
Wow, I'm loving all the custom fabrication! That's some great work! I got my BW S360 in the car just a few weeks ago, and I have to say I'm very happy with it. I'm elated that my home-built manifold hasn't taken a dump on me yet even after an autocross event. It looks like you're headed for higher territory though.
#34
Full Member
Thread Starter
Exciting times! No problems with the drivetrain this far. I try to be easy on it because it's always in the back of my mind. But there are those times where I roast the tires a bit and the trans has handled it well. It probably helps that I'm using an organic clutch. When I launch I can smell the clutch a little. I'd rather replace a disc than rebuild the transmission LOL
#36
Full Member
Thread Starter
Is this in person, or could you provide a link to this Miata build? I'd like to check it out.
Also, that's great news! It's nice to see people testing the limits of these components. I selfishly wish him the best!
Also, that's great news! It's nice to see people testing the limits of these components. I selfishly wish him the best!
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Hayamate (10-07-20)
#39
Full Member
Thread Starter
Realistically, I think the best I can do is post my measurements here when I get a chance. If my projects settle down in the near future I'll see if I can get a hold of a mock-up trans and start fabbing up kits if there is enough interest.
#40
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
Thanks for the response. At the very least, measurements would be fantastic. I have access to a welder and my friend is a machinist. If dimensions could be provided for the trans shift rod extender, I could also get those machined.
I'm not in any rush, but am always eager to pursue this project when someone comes up with a realistic solution.
I'm not in any rush, but am always eager to pursue this project when someone comes up with a realistic solution.
#42
I would also like to get this if a kit was made. Any way you would be able to copy the extension bracket ? I'm currently using one in a few and I'm getting tired of punching my radio in 3rd.
#43
Full Member
Thread Starter
Hey y'all, sorry for the late responses... I'm such a lurker and hardly post anything.
Thanks! I'm pleased with most of it. I could have done better on the trans mount, but it isn't terrible considering I just used what I had laying around.
Sorry, I'm pretty swamped right now. The past few months have been dedicated to rebuilding the engine and restoring everything in the engine bay. It's a pretty simple concept though, If I can do it any experienced fabricator could come up with one easily. I think the real challenge would be coming up with the shift rod extension and welding it to the existing rod.
#44
Junior Member
I said I'd get a pic of how much the drive shaft protrudes from the transmission.
This is the mount before I realized it's impossible to install my exhaust. FAIL!
Revision #1... The exhaust still hit the bottom of the large angle iron to the right.
Revision #2... Oh God, what have I done?! It was ugly before the changes! Well, it works, so whatever.
Everything is installed and running!
I'm feeling so good about this, I've made new plans...
That annoying beeping from the power steering computer was, well, annoying. This should take care of that! XD
Thoughts: This transmission is amazing! The close gear ratios are really like a race car's. I think it complements the 3.9 diff currently in the car. Geez, I couldn't imagine having a 4.3 or shorter, I'd be shifting endlessly.
As mentioned above, the power steering CPU starts beeping after a while without a way to get input to the speedo. I read on the forum that if you have the RPMs above 2000 for 18 seconds or longer without speedo input, the CPU will start beeping. It seems to be true. So I desoldered the speaker.
The solid trans mount... It is definitely loud in the cabin! It sounds like I'm driving a car with straight-cut gears. Every time I engage the clutch, I can hear the gears mesh. It gets much louder with load and RPMs. I'll definitely be building a new mount with bushings.
I'm not sure if it's the length of the slave cylinder piston or what, but the engagement point of the clutch pedal is low. Not like on the floor low, but noticeably low. I might experiment with the slave cylinder later. But man, does this clutch feel good! If you forgot, it's an Exedy Stage 1 HD. The pedal pressure is kinda heavy, but the engagement is magnificent. It's been a very long time since I've driven a car with a carbon clutch.
The RX8 starter sounds very different from the FC's, so much that it takes me by surprise every time I turn the key. It does turn hard, though. Good upgrade.
I might be forgetting something here... Anyway, I'll post an update later on after the clutch has been broken in. Again, questions and comments are appreciated!
#45
Full Member
Thread Starter
The rest of the wires like reverse switch for the reverse lights I just zip tied out of the way and left alone. I didn't care enough at the time to wire them in. I think there was a wire for 5th gear or something like that, but again I didn't do anything with it.
I didn't remove any modules. I did end up moving to a standalone ECU, but I left all other electronics under the dash intact.
#46
10000 RPM Lane
iTrader: (2)
you can touch it; just make sure you adjust it properly, because at some point you'll likely need to
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=237737
think I have a pdf somewhere that illustrates it better, will post if I can find it
This same 6-spd transmission is also used in the NC Miata; slightly different tailhousing since the PPF attaches on the opposite side in the MX5 chassis; 2009 and newer would be best as they were upgraded some from the earlier version
.
#47
Full Member
Thread Starter
Thanks, TeamRX8! I'll keep that in mind if I ever experience any shifting issues. So far it's been flawless even after taking constant abuse this past year.
#48
Junior Member
ok thank you very much, at first my starter did not start and what I did was connect the black and white wire, from the neutral switch harness, (the plug that you mention) that wire made the starter boot erratically, so I put together the black and red wire along with the black and white wire and now it starts well but no turn on the car.Most likely can be something else...because the fuel pump don't active and the main relay don't click when you hit the ignition switch most likely is something else, but anyway thank you for take your time to answer my question.
#49
Junior Member
To get the starter to engage, I had to bypass the inhibitor switch/neutral safety switch. I don't remember offhand which pins I jumped, but it was very simple once I figured out why the starter wouldn't do anything when I turned the key. The plug is close to the starter. You could probably look it up here or on Google to get the details.
The rest of the wires like reverse switch for the reverse lights I just zip tied out of the way and left alone. I didn't care enough at the time to wire them in. I think there was a wire for 5th gear or something like that, but again I didn't do anything with it.
I didn't remove any modules. I did end up moving to a standalone ECU, but I left all other electronics under the dash intact.
The rest of the wires like reverse switch for the reverse lights I just zip tied out of the way and left alone. I didn't care enough at the time to wire them in. I think there was a wire for 5th gear or something like that, but again I didn't do anything with it.
I didn't remove any modules. I did end up moving to a standalone ECU, but I left all other electronics under the dash intact.
#50
Full Member
Thread Starter
So I was getting a ton of noise from the auto driveshaft. It turned out the front U-joint had dry bearings. I took it apart and rust fell out. I replaced the unreplaceable joint, but the new one quickly developed play.
I got tired of messing around and went to my local driveshaft shop. They fabricated this stout unit the same day I contacted them! Not only is the length more appropriate for the trans swap, but these U-joints aren't going to have problems for a very long time. And when they do, they're easily replaced with OTS parts.
$412 is a lot, but in the grand scheme it's justifiable.
I got tired of messing around and went to my local driveshaft shop. They fabricated this stout unit the same day I contacted them! Not only is the length more appropriate for the trans swap, but these U-joints aren't going to have problems for a very long time. And when they do, they're easily replaced with OTS parts.
$412 is a lot, but in the grand scheme it's justifiable.
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the faster one (02-28-22)