I was looking at the Banjo bolt idea. Ive seen a few different types. Do i have to get a specific one?

 

You can use something like this:

https://www.13betc.com/product/1984-...on-banjo-bolt/

It fits where the FPD went and leaves the little passage so you can still install the collar with the hose barb for the fuel supply line.

NAPA or other automotive stores also might carry something that would work. I don't know the thread pitch or length offhand though, so maybe bring the primary rail and the little collar thing that fits between the rail and FPD, and check that it works before you purchase.

I think the end of the secondary fuel rail has a similar banjo bolt. So if you have a spare secondary laying around, just take the bolt off of that.

 

Ok I’ll order than banjo bolt. Injectors are now at the shop.. while I wait I am looking at maf. It seems off. Anything I can do to check it’s function?

 

Ok so I may have answer my own question. The door on the mass was seized shut. I clean corrosion and lubed the door and now it moves freely.

 

You can check the electronics using the process in the FSM. It has the different resistances you should be able to measure across the pins. Also make sure that when you push the door, the values move smoothly without jumping around.

 

Nice find!

 

Checked maf sensors and everything else on intake. Seems to all be ok.

Fixed clutch today and I think it’s good, new slave and clutch master.

 

Ok trying to locate parts anywhere. Looking for driver rear caliper and I found one that says:
Fits Rear Left; with Adjustable Suspension; Casting # 1313; with Metal Piston
or Rear Left; with Hard Suspension; Casting # 1313; with Metal Piston

Does hard suspension just mean that i dont have adjustable? My car is basic, no ABS, etc

 

Tough night last night. Had some parts come in and decided to work on a few things.

Installed alpine deck which actually worked out fairly well and looks good. Only real issue I had was that the power antenna did not work.

Second, got the banjo bolt to replace pulsation dampener. Bolt is too long! My ideas are to find thicker crush washers, and or cut bolt.

Third, which is the worst. My wipers only worked on one setting before I decided to replace the resistor as per other forums to return wiper function. I did that and now wipers are working on full and do not shut off at all.

Anyway, any help appreciated, especially with the wiper.

 

Mine worked only on one function and I had to replace the relays inside the switch and now they work great, search for wiper switch relay, i posted some of the process in my build thread.

 

I did the wiper switch relay as suggested and now they do not shut off. I only replaced one relay, the hard one to get at

 

Should I remove relay and try again? must be a short. Will I damage if I try to remove?

 

Maybe someone who knows more than me will help but I would check to see if the solder bridged between the terminals and make sure you have the right relay.

 

The power antenna on our cars has reversed polarity from normal. You can use a relay to reverse it, the guide is in the FAQ in the 2nd gen section.

Alternatively, our power antennas are also pretty unreliable. You can install a fixed antenna so you don't have to worry about it.

Either should work, but I would try the thicker crush washers first.

If you do cut the bolt, thread a nut down onto it before cutting. Then as you remove the nut it will help clean the threads out.

What are the part numbers for the relays you replaced? I think I have them written somewhere.

I also may have a spare switch somewhere. Is yours with / without wiper?

 

Ok! Dampener out of the way! I found thicker washers but then diameter too small, long story short cut bolt, bingo bango

the part number is Z950-ND which I ordered from digikey as suggested from the wiper switch repair I found online…. I’m sure it was my error in the soldering. I do not have rear wiper.

I’m going to leave antenna for a while, it was kinda cool to have working but not the end of the world.

put in the lower fuel rail. Was starting to look at that oil thingy (bar that comes from under engine to the top of the intake) not sure that’s moving properly.

 

That's one relay, but there are two that you need to replace. Three on models with a rear wiper.

FC3S Pro v2.0:&nbsp How-To - Fixing RX7 2nd Gen Wiper Switch

I don't recall which does which, but fortunately I was able to find my Digikey order from 6 years ago that has the part numbers:



I also seem to recall the non-rear wiper switch has one of each and the rear-wiper switch has two of the G6 and one of the G5. The pictures in the article support that.

I was able to find a spare non-rear wiper switch of mine that I would offer you, but unfortunately it's currently missing the relays.

 

I also just noticed, you have the rare optional mudflaps too!

I wonder what the pinstripe / gradient options were from the factory? I've seen some with a white pinstripe down the black trim like yours, some with a red. You have this neat gradient decal below the trim too.

 

I just noticed those decals too! Not sure I am a fan of the mud flaps…. Just drained tranny and flush filled rad. Waiting on bushings I just ordered, pulled both an arms / ball joints/ tie rods. Not much left in that front end

 

Found a guy selling a used racing beat presilencer. My original rx had this and a down pipe and sounds awesome. How do you feel about used?

 

Is it the one in Vaughan on FB Marketplace?

I don't see why used would be an issue. Especially for a part that you don't see. The RB exhausts are stainless, although I think they used to make non-stainless versions, so if that matters to you then maybe check with the seller.

 

Yes thats the one, I see a rx in the background. Thought about saving a few dollars

 

Actually, I think the old ones are stainless (thats what I remember buying) the site shows non stainless now

 

Engine back together entirely! Haven't attempted start yet going after front end. Going to tackle bushings next..... Front control arms were no problem, however the stabilizer links are a pain in the @ss. I put the bushings together and then try to put the metal sleeve through and it squeezes out the other side! Brutal

 

Ok so is it starving for fuel? Correct me here if I’m wrong….. I pulled main gas line… turned key on it should try to pressurize system? That’s the line coming from fuel filter. Can someone confirm I didn’t mix gas lines up

 

It should not run the pump when the key is on, to make it run either crank the car, push the afm open, or jumper the yellow test connector beside the air box on the passenger side. I believe you have the correct fuel line.