Back from a long break!
 

Glad to see this website still around. Ive been gone since 2004 when I sold my RX7. Well I'm back with a new project and Ive attached some photos of the car I was just gifted yesterday. Take a look at those KM's Car has been sitting for 25yrs. Look forward to any advice and will post journey of my rebuild.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bf0600023.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...78dba5add.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a14263ae9.jpeg

welcome back.

nice score. looks like it just needs a thorough going through and some TLC.

It's got hub caps?. . . Steelies underneath that. . . 4 lug?

Those louvers are kinda rare.. .. . Not many people made those in aluminum.

5 Speed?

I chucked the louvers! they were missing a blade. I like the look without it. Got into the gas tank yesterday and fuel pump looked mint and drained 20yr old gas using the fuel pump splice technique. Fuel and pump wont be issue. Went into air filter area and found a mice nest in air filter. Is there easy method to test MAF sensor before trying to start this thing? I turned motor by hand and seemed to move fairly free. Should I MMO cylinders? Clutch pedal next, hard as a rock

ya they are 4 lug

Well changed oil.. put a little mmo in each cylinder. New wires, new battery. Daughter watch as I attempted first start…. Nada.. simple click and nothing. Going to attempt starter manually next. Really hoped she would fire

When mystery has been solved. Clutch is not fully depressed and not engaging clutch switch. Pushed with finger, and voila car started…..sorta

Did mmo trick… car starts then almost immediately dies. I’m by clutch pedal and I almost hear a click then it immediately dies. I don’t want to change plugs yet because of mmo. Any suggestions?

Ensure the green rectangular plug on the back of the water pump housing below the alternator is connected firmly.

Hmm don’t see any green plug

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4c926978fa.jpg

It's kind of tough to see.

Stand at the passenger fender with a flashlight, and lean over the alternator. It's on the back of the housing, pointing towards the rear of the car. Way down below the intake runners.

I thought I'd responded earlier this morning, but my response doesn't show up for some reason.

The connector is hard to see. If you stand over the passenger fender and use a flashlight to look straight down behind the water pump housing, you should see it pointing towards the back of the car. It's way down below the intake runner.

EDIT: And now my response appears. Weird.

I do see it, it appears to be plugged in well I’ll take another look, also attached video with sound

Video

I took fuel line off fuel pressure dampener and jumped fuel pump, no fuel coming through not normal?
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a434b3e60b.jpg

With the fuel pump active there should be fuel coming from there. Have you checked the fuel filter on the driver's side frame rail? It's accessible from above, but you'll find it easier to jack the car up and access from below.

Also, whereabouts in Ontario are you located?

Sault Ste. Marie, so I’m knee deep right now in the car. Took fuel rail off and was currently looking at the injectors. One seems to spray and one not so good. Maybe I should ship these out. How can I test fuel pressure regulator?

Also, lots of fuel in rail. Pressure was there

If you were closer to me I'd offer to take a look in-person, but I'm really far from Sault.

Getting the injectors cleaned seems like a logical step. After sitting for so long, you'll need that either way. It's weird that it had enough fuel to fire off though and not enough to run. Normally you'd either have no signs of life, or some sort of idle.

Testing the FPR requires that the entire system is assembled. You tee in a pressure gauge between the fuel filter and the inlet of the fuel rail. The FSM has a spec for it. You also compare with / without the vac hose attached.

Also, is the MAF plugged in?

Yes plugged in the MAF. I'm going to pull the other injectors and send the whole lot in. New clutch parts are on their way so might have to focus on that until injectors return. Im really hoping that I will not have to change clutch, sitting so long is this going to be inevitable? Also, I heard RC a good place to send injectors, any in Ontario?

I don't know anyone near you, but you could just put "fuel injector cleaning" into Google and see what comes up nearby.

The last time I had them cleaned it was by a local-ish guy in Vaughan. $90, one day turnaround, and included before / after flow-tests. I don't have his info anymore unfortunately.

Going to try Toronto injectors, $160 full service. I managed to remove intake today to get last injectors out. Spray lubed anything that moves. Any stuff I should look at/test while it’s out?
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...95489e012.jpeg

Quite a lot you can look at:

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...te-up-1139279/

IMO the biggest thing is to replace the fuel line (make sure it's rated for EFI), check the pulsation damper, and replace the vacuum lines. Gaskets are a good idea, and you can use a vacuum pump to check the EGR and the double-throttle diaphragm. If you have the time, checking and servicing everything in there will save you a lot of time later. Removing the intake is a pain.

I got the pulsation dampner and rail off. if i shake it the dampner rattles, is this a good sign or is the diaphragm finished?

No, that usually means the little screw has backed out. If you pop the plastic cap off it is probably loose or entirely out.

I don't know enough about it to know whether putting the screw back is safe. IMO, get a banjo bolt and delete it. I wouldn't worry at all about it on an NA car.

I was looking at the Banjo bolt idea. Ive seen a few different types. Do i have to get a specific one?

You can use something like this:

https://www.13betc.com/product/1984-...on-banjo-bolt/

It fits where the FPD went and leaves the little passage so you can still install the collar with the hose barb for the fuel supply line.

NAPA or other automotive stores also might carry something that would work. I don't know the thread pitch or length offhand though, so maybe bring the primary rail and the little collar thing that fits between the rail and FPD, and check that it works before you purchase.

I think the end of the secondary fuel rail has a similar banjo bolt. So if you have a spare secondary laying around, just take the bolt off of that.

Ok I’ll order than banjo bolt. Injectors are now at the shop.. while I wait I am looking at maf. It seems off. Anything I can do to check it’s function?

Ok so I may have answer my own question. The door on the mass was seized shut. I clean corrosion and lubed the door and now it moves freely.

You can check the electronics using the process in the FSM. It has the different resistances you should be able to measure across the pins. Also make sure that when you push the door, the values move smoothly without jumping around.

Nice find!

Checked maf sensors and everything else on intake. Seems to all be ok.

Fixed clutch today and I think it’s good, new slave and clutch master.

Ok trying to locate parts anywhere. Looking for driver rear caliper and I found one that says:
Fits Rear Left; with Adjustable Suspension; Casting # 1313; with Metal Piston
or Rear Left; with Hard Suspension; Casting # 1313; with Metal Piston

Does hard suspension just mean that i dont have adjustable? My car is basic, no ABS, etc

Tough night last night. Had some parts come in and decided to work on a few things.

Installed alpine deck which actually worked out fairly well and looks good. Only real issue I had was that the power antenna did not work.

Second, got the banjo bolt to replace pulsation dampener. Bolt is too long! My ideas are to find thicker crush washers, and or cut bolt.

Third, which is the worst. My wipers only worked on one setting before I decided to replace the resistor as per other forums to return wiper function. I did that and now wipers are working on full and do not shut off at all.

Anyway, any help appreciated, especially with the wiper.

Mine worked only on one function and I had to replace the relays inside the switch and now they work great, search for wiper switch relay, i posted some of the process in my build thread.

I did the wiper switch relay as suggested and now they do not shut off. I only replaced one relay, the hard one to get at

Should I remove relay and try again? must be a short. Will I damage if I try to remove?

Maybe someone who knows more than me will help but I would check to see if the solder bridged between the terminals and make sure you have the right relay.

The power antenna on our cars has reversed polarity from normal. You can use a relay to reverse it, the guide is in the FAQ in the 2nd gen section.

Alternatively, our power antennas are also pretty unreliable. You can install a fixed antenna so you don't have to worry about it.

Either should work, but I would try the thicker crush washers first.

If you do cut the bolt, thread a nut down onto it before cutting. Then as you remove the nut it will help clean the threads out.

What are the part numbers for the relays you replaced? I think I have them written somewhere.

I also may have a spare switch somewhere. Is yours with / without wiper?

Ok! Dampener out of the way! I found thicker washers but then diameter too small, long story short cut bolt, bingo bango

the part number is Z950-ND which I ordered from digikey as suggested from the wiper switch repair I found online…. I’m sure it was my error in the soldering. I do not have rear wiper.

I’m going to leave antenna for a while, it was kinda cool to have working but not the end of the world.

put in the lower fuel rail. Was starting to look at that oil thingy (bar that comes from under engine to the top of the intake) not sure that’s moving properly.

That's one relay, but there are two that you need to replace. Three on models with a rear wiper.

FC3S Pro v2.0:&nbsp How-To - Fixing RX7 2nd Gen Wiper Switch

I don't recall which does which, but fortunately I was able to find my Digikey order from 6 years ago that has the part numbers:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...37c2c6b5aa.png

I also seem to recall the non-rear wiper switch has one of each and the rear-wiper switch has two of the G6 and one of the G5. The pictures in the article support that.

I was able to find a spare non-rear wiper switch of mine that I would offer you, but unfortunately it's currently missing the relays.

I also just noticed, you have the rare optional mudflaps too!

I wonder what the pinstripe / gradient options were from the factory? I've seen some with a white pinstripe down the black trim like yours, some with a red. You have this neat gradient decal below the trim too.

I just noticed those decals too! Not sure I am a fan of the mud flaps…. Just drained tranny and flush filled rad. Waiting on bushings I just ordered, pulled both an arms / ball joints/ tie rods. Not much left in that front end

Found a guy selling a used racing beat presilencer. My original rx had this and a down pipe and sounds awesome. How do you feel about used?

Is it the one in Vaughan on FB Marketplace?

I don't see why used would be an issue. Especially for a part that you don't see. The RB exhausts are stainless, although I think they used to make non-stainless versions, so if that matters to you then maybe check with the seller.

Yes thats the one, I see a rx in the background. Thought about saving a few dollars

Actually, I think the old ones are stainless (thats what I remember buying) the site shows non stainless now

Engine back together entirely! Haven't attempted start yet going after front end. Going to tackle bushings next..... Front control arms were no problem, however the stabilizer links are a pain in the @ss. I put the bushings together and then try to put the metal sleeve through and it squeezes out the other side! Brutal

Ok so is it starving for fuel? Correct me here if I’m wrong….. I pulled main gas line… turned key on it should try to pressurize system? That’s the line coming from fuel filter. Can someone confirm I didn’t mix gas lines up
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...20ce08175a.jpg

It should not run the pump when the key is on, to make it run either crank the car, push the afm open, or jumper the yellow test connector beside the air box on the passenger side. I believe you have the correct fuel line.