After battling a rough and inconsistent idle and hesitation when accelerating for a minute now,,,,, I decided to do a compression test (normal cylinder compression tester) and I think I found the problem, but I'd like any and all input please.
I pulled and tested both bottom spark plug holes (one at a time) EGI fuse out, I just forgot to have the throttle open, and this is what I got.

Front rotor
30:30:85 continuous

Back rotor
85:85:85 continuous.

Schrader valve pulled from the compression tester and the car wasn't cold. I also tested a few times for consistency. Like I mentioned, I've been having a hard time dialing in the idle (basically adjusting the throttle cable, I tested the TPS and it seems fine but adjusting the idle screws doesn't really get me anywhere... So, I think I'm dealing with a couple bad apex seals in my front rotor. would y'all agree? I guess I'd just like the hard truth from y'all experienced guys (and gals) out there before I start researching seal replacement - I assume rebuild as well. I have videos, just not sure how to upload them.

Thank you!!

 

would definitely agree, you can try squirting some marvel mystery oil into the lead plug holes then reinstall the plugs, crank the engine for 3 seconds with the egi fuse out and let the engine sit for a few days, then do a water treatment/injection and see if the numbers change at all. if no change then the engine needs to come apart.

 

A few more things to add; New plugs / wires, new injectors, fuel pump and filter.

I just called and spoke with Atkins Rotary, and he told me it might be that there is carbon build up on the rotor faces (from sitting for quite a few years) that needs to be blown out. He mentioned taking it down the highway for a little bit to try to blow the junk out. I will say, since we got it running a little bit ago, we've only driven it around town here and there. No smoke or anything unusual, it just runs like its being starved of fuel.

 

i would suggest what i said above, it's best to get some lubrication on the seals instead of trying to break them free with brute force from the engine at high revs. some spirited driving might free them up, it also might fracture a seal and destroy an otherwise usable rotor and housing.

 

Thank you for this, I'll run the oil through tomorrow.
I've never heard of a water treatment / injection. can you elaborate pls?

 

best place to do both rotors on an tii is the rear middle vacuum line near the throttle body(this feeds both primary idle diffusers for both rotors). put a tee on the line and place the end of the vacuum hose in a gallon of water and rev the engine to around 2500 rpms to prevent it from stalling. run the whole gallon through until finished then do a compression test and or subsequent oil change.

it's called a decarbonization treatment.

 

Awesome! Thank you for all this great info

 

I'm a little lost with this vacuum line location. We did the Emissions Delete and there are 4 ports on the back of the intake mani. one is for coolant (I believe, it's larger in diameter) the other tree should be vacuum lines one below the coolant line and two above. there are three ports on the front.... we capped the bottom two.

I just used the pressure sensor line and it took about 28 ounces of water it didn't want to do much more than that, this concept sounds like it works, it just feels odd sending water thru the engine. What I really want is to send water through the front rotor.
I'll take a few pics so you can see what I'm working with.

 

the top large line should be for the oil metering pump air supplies. the second one down from that should be for the center port on the lower intake next to the primary fuel injectors(might be the third hose, the vacuum diagrams usually only show 3 ports), the one you want. yeah the pressure sensor line only leads to the rear rotor so isn't effective for whole engine cleaning.

 

ok, so your talking about the line circled in green right? I remember hooking this line up when plugging the OMP injector right next to it. So, I would siphon from the end plugged into the back of the intake manifold, in front of the firewall to treat the front rotor..?

 

yes that one, it will do both rotors at the same time though, not just the front. if the engine starts to bog down too much just pull the line out of the water momentarily until it catches back up.

 

So I put a T in between the two ports (back of the manifold and the line going to the port by the OMP injector) and started siphoning from a gallon jug (which was on the ground) it started out super slow; water level was barely dropping. After 5-10 minutes I lifted the jug higher to help the vacuum (maybe I had too much line going to the T? As I lifted the jug the car started back firing pretty bad every couple seconds resulting in a bunch of air blowing back into the gallon jug. It just didn't seem to be working as it should of. So I disconnected the line going to the back of the upper manifold and plugged it. Then I just plugged the open end of the T and siphoned the water directly to the port down by the OMP injector. That seemed to do the trick; water level dropped much quicker and the engine ran more like I expected, a bit rough and choppy while keeping the RPMs ~2500.

So my question is - just using the one port, did the water make it to the front, back, or both rotors? And a follow up - If what I did worked for just the front, next time could I use both the pressure sensor vacuum line (for the rear rotor) and the line going to the OMP injector at the same time for both rotors?

I hope this is too confusing... This process does seem to be work tho, the car does seem to be running a bit smoother when accelerating, tho I haven't ran a compression test yet for the front rotor. It's tough to want to get down there when it's so hot.

Thank you again for all the assistance!

 

cap the port at the manifold and run the tee to an extra length of line to the water bucket. i suppose i should have specified to cap that port so it's drawing a vacuum instead of bypassing to the intake manifold.

that line off the back to the center of the lower intake feeds BOTH rotors at the same time, so it avoids the need to mess with alternating lines around. but this might make the engine struggle a bit more to stay running. it spits out at the primary atomizer ports, technically it should atomize the water better than any other vacuum port location.

it won't matter where you place the bucket if you cap the port and run that vacuum line directly to it. so you'll need to manage the throttle to keep the engine alive and periodically give the engine a break by pulling the line out of the water. i start with the vacuum line vented to atmosphere then put it in the bucket to see how the engine is reacting.

alternatively just use your finger over the tee you're using to extend the vacuum line so it draws water from the bucket. don't stab the throttle or anything, just keep the engine alive while it labors through the water mixed with the fuel.