The pulsation damper is there to smooth out the flow of fuel.

I have a banjo bolt in my car now but haven't been able to get it started yet .... Once I get it started I'll know more about what its like to have a banjo instead of a PD.

RETed should beable to help you more on this subject than me.

 

My cousin's 87 N/A FC has been acting VERY strange over the past few months and we have always noticed a STRONG smell of gasoline under the hood! Recently his tach stopped working and their is a constant series of 2 beeps and a pause when the car gets going. Also, when he makes a right turn while driving over a certain mph his car makes a buzz that sounds like the redline buzzer (this only happens when turning right but not left?). When I turn the key halfway without starting it, their is a very rapid clicking noise coming from around the fuel injection system area. I can visually see the fuel dripping right out of the FPD and the FPD is soaked in fuel (Noticed this today 3/23). When the car starts, it idles VERY high (3-4k?) and it starts to idle up and down when it warms up (after about 10-20min. of driving). I know that the harness runs under there and I was wondering if any of the harness wires could have gone bad because of the fuel drip and caused his tach to knock out? (I'm not sure which harness wires run under here but I'm pretty sure none of them have anything to do with the tach!?). The car is parked as of today until it can be fixed and I am VERY surprised that the car has not caught flames yet seeing how we race so much!

IF I CAN GET ANY HELP OR INPUT ON WHAT IS MAKING THIS CLICKING NOISE AND HIGH IDLE IT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! I ALREADY KNOW HOW TO CHANGE THE FPD AND THIS IS GOING TO BE A MUST!

I REALLY WANT TO GET HIM BACK ON THE ROAD BECAUSE HERE IN ODESSA, TX THEIR ISN'T MANY ROTARIES BESIDES HIS N/A AND MY TII!

THANKS FOR ANY HELP RECIEVED!!!

 

The ecu on the 87-88 Turbo IIs ABSOLUTELY causes hot start flooding problems. I spent over a grand trying to figure out why my 88 T2 wouldn't start when it was hot (new injectors, O2 sensor, plugs, wires, igniters, solenoids, etc).

After much research, it turns out that the computer just makes the mixture too rich when the car is hot (and if you are running a more powerful aftermarket fuel pump than stock, its even worse). A cheap simple one second delay circuit inline with the fuel pump relay line off the ECU fixed the problem once and for all (some people just put in a switch, but I didn't want to have to mess with a switch every time I wanted to start my car when it was hot).

Later,
Salguod

 

Man, after reading all these posts I ran out side opened the hood of my car, sniff-sniff, no gas smell. I started it up, raced it around the block a few times, sniff-sniff, no gas smell. Still not feeling secure, I drove over to the auto parts store and bought a fire extinguisher and mounted it on the passenger side right in front of the seat! Whew, now I can sleep tonight.

 

I have seen pulse dampers leak in all the generations of Rx7's. 1984-85 Gsl-se, 2nd gen,3rd gen. Many fires.......... I Have fixed so many leaking pulse dampers. most of the fires under the hoods of your stock FD's that I have seen, come from a leaking pulse damper...

 

hey you know guys you listen to ito he is the man

 

hey judge ito here chato race saludos

 

Hey Luis nice to have u online in this forum. know hurry up and let's get to englishtown and run that 12 second E.T. with your 2nd gen.

 

Just some info for you all:

I replaced the FPD with a banjo bolt and there seems to be no immediate problems. Any long term though??


2nd gen N/A

 

Nope, not that I know of...


-Ted

 

There seem to be many differing opinions on the Banjo Bolt. Since there also seems to be no ill effects from the mod, can someone clarify this once and for all. RETED your last post says that there are no long term effects (that you know of). Can you post your full opinion and write-up on the Banjo Bolt? I have searched the forum and found the instructions and information, but your opinion seems to be well respected, and I am sure it could help those of us with the original 86-88 PD.
Thanks,
-DL

 

A) What is a Banjo bolt?

B) Maybe for those cars not yet burned down, Mazda can supply new PD's at cost or for free?

 

MGUIRE/////If you want to see a banjo bolt, go to this thread https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ght=banjo+bolt and look at a response from HAILERS. He put two jpgs of a banjo bolt, near the bottom of the thread.

 

Thanks HAILERS. I have my manifolds off anyways for an injector cleaning and Pineapple Racing 6-port sleeves install anyways. I took the cap off of the PD and viola, loose screw was inside, but no leaking fuel. I think I'll just reinstall the screw with some thread locker, drill a small hole in the plastic cap that points towards the drivers side and glue the cap back on. The PD looks like it's in good condition.

 

Judge Ito-san, have you found the banjo-bolt fix to be a suitable fix?

 

I've been digging around, and Summit Racing offers JUST THE BANJO BOLT, which is an Earls part number 997591.

I punched in part number "EAR-997591", and it's priced at $7.99 each.

I know people were buying the banjo bolt AND banjo double fitting, which is the Earls part number 807991, but you're wasting money with the extra parts.&nbsp Summit price for EAR-997591 is $26.39 (it's currently on back-order).&nbsp What is good enough this part is that is comes with two aluminum crush washers, which you actually need.

You can get the fuel rail (copper) crush washers from the Mazda dealer.



-Ted

 

Salguod,
Will you please supply more info on the one second delay circuit you used, such as manufacturer and part number ? It would be nice to rid the car of this annoying problem. I have known for years it wasn't the injectors and was pleased to see the Aussie gadget for the hot start problem, but I 'm sure what you are talking about is less than $85. Good work.

 

I got my Banjo bolt off of a honda tranny ideal length . I`m pretty sure its from an accord 5 speed, but I`ll confirm that.

 

The PD on my S5 J-Spec TII motor does not have the little rubber nib sticking out of the hole anymore. Looking at the picture, it doesn't look like that is indicative of a failure, but I'd like to be sure!

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Manolis

 

I was just about to ask the same thing piston eater asked. Id also like to know if the nib is gone should I JBweld over the hole? Also If you have a S5 fuel rail and the PD is part of it would that mean that you have to replace the entire primary fuel rail if its bad?

 

Piston-eater and RX7-8593..........you need to go back and read this post from beginning to end. Did you not see the graphic of the two pulsation dampers in motion???????? There is where you will find the answer to your question. Thats in reference to the *nib*.

 

Hailers Ive already looked at the graphic of the two PDs and read the entire thread but I could not find any information regarding the nib on the s5 one other than the graphic. I only found warnings not to JBweld the screw on the s4 one because it moves in and out with the diaphram. On the graphic of S5 PD it shows a small plug (or nib) in the end which use to be on the end of my PD. Because there is no screw to move in and out like on the s4 one the only use I can see for that small hole is to vent air in and out when the diaphram is moving. But then why is there orignally a plug (or NIB) there? If this is a vent then I should not plug it up. If it is not and the diaphram ever tears it will be spurting fuel out the hole just like the s4 PD with the screw out. I want to be safe and cant decide weather to plug up the whole, leave it open, or replace the entire primary fuel rail.

 

My mistake 8593. Sorry 'bout that. Seems they should have made an overboard drain for these things if they have such a potential for burning the car to the ground.

 

My 87 has the brass cap. If im understanding this right it should have had a plastic one? guess mine had problems before I got it.

 

Hailers its cool, maby ill try what you said and make a remote vent. I could put a fitting on the end of the hole and use a small vacume hose to vent it under the car away from the engine and turbo heat. Then if it does leak it wont poor all over the top of the housings just dump to the ground.