OMP-Pre-mix mod Write-up
04-24-03, 12:04 AM
#26
FC Mobsta
Id check the lines to see if you can see oil moving..there usually all old and yellow, but you could still see oil moving through them I'd think. The S4 OMP's are pretty reliable units, but the lines get oil and brittle, any oil leaking?
04-24-03, 10:04 PM
#29
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No oil leaks that I know of. I don't even know where to look to see the oil lines. So, I need to keep using MMO but only use more now? Or do you all have a favorite premix product?
Craig
Craig
04-24-03, 10:37 PM
#30
I use costal. Use whatever you want as long as it is TCW3 then it is good. The OMP is on the front of the enigne it has four lines comming off of it. If you ever take off your UIM you will see the two oil injectors on the LIM and two on the block.
04-26-03, 10:48 AM
#31
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Would`nt it be better to just fix the OMP so it is working correctly?? Even if you modify it for more oil, either way it would be more convenient that adding oil at every fill up IMO.
John
John
04-26-03, 12:26 PM
#32
Originally posted by JonEQuest
Would`nt it be better to just fix the OMP so it is working correctly?? Even if you modify it for more oil, either way it would be more convenient that adding oil at every fill up IMO.
John
Would`nt it be better to just fix the OMP so it is working correctly?? Even if you modify it for more oil, either way it would be more convenient that adding oil at every fill up IMO.
John
The point is not to get more oil into the engine the point is that two stroke oil does not leave as much crap behind after it burns. The point of this mod is not convinience it is to increase the longevity of your engine. I am willing to spend an extra minute at the pump for my car I don't know about you.
04-26-03, 01:36 PM
#33
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can some one point me in the way of a thread where they discuss the efficienty of 2cyle oil vs. regualar motor oil?
i guess that it will lube just as well since thats what it was made for im just very scepticle
sorry about the spelling i cant do it for ****
EDIT: just saw this on K2RD's web site
Elimination of the factory oil metering pump is reccommended only on race engines which REQUIRES pre-mixing of fuel.
why?
i guess that it will lube just as well since thats what it was made for im just very scepticle
sorry about the spelling i cant do it for ****
EDIT: just saw this on K2RD's web site
Elimination of the factory oil metering pump is reccommended only on race engines which REQUIRES pre-mixing of fuel.
why?
04-26-03, 01:50 PM
#34
lol
that just means that normal people(us excluded) don't want to bother with putting the two stroke in every fill up. I have been runing pre-mix for a good while. The two stroke lubricates just fine and it burns cleaner leaving less carbon behind.
that just means that normal people(us excluded) don't want to bother with putting the two stroke in every fill up. I have been runing pre-mix for a good while. The two stroke lubricates just fine and it burns cleaner leaving less carbon behind.
04-26-03, 02:00 PM
#35
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so basically it just says that its for racers only because they dont think the everyday joe will bother with puting in premix a tthe station?
thanx RX7GUY i have always had respect for you and you always have tons of usefull information
thanx RX7GUY i have always had respect for you and you always have tons of usefull information
04-26-03, 02:08 PM
#36
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Originally posted by RETed
I find this hard to believe. The (stock) oil injection was designed to lubricate these areas: 1) apex seal to rotor housing contact, 2) the apex seal to apex seal groove, 3) "secondary" seals such as the corner and side seals. Pre-mixing would be superior (over Hurley rotor oil jet mod) for #1. Hurley oil jet mod would be superior to pre-mixing for #2. #3 would be debatable. What is undeniable is that pre-mixes burn a lot cleaner than engine motor oil. Pre-mixes were designed to burn and leave a slight deposits for lubrication. This means all parts of the combustion chamber is affected during combustion. How can it not lubricate anything?
http://www.nmma.org/certification/p...ndex.asp?bhcp=1
Synthetic oil? Yes. I've seen a motor using Amsoil 20W50 which left nasty deposits next to the spark plugs holes. These deposits would cause the apex seal to chatter over them (obvious chatter marks). This made me cringe - I do not recommend running synthetic oils if you are still running the stock oil injection.
Beats the hell out of me? I've seen 30k miles 13BT engines come out with a slight layer of carbon (under 0.5mm) on the rotor faces all the time.
I've got a pre-mix FAQ on my site:
http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/FAQ/premix.htm
-Ted
Originally posted by Marcel Burkett
This isn't just about the time it takes , although I absolutely hate it (lazy ??) , but on the HURLEY site they also say that 99% of the premix is burnt without lubricating anything ,
This isn't just about the time it takes , although I absolutely hate it (lazy ??) , but on the HURLEY site they also say that 99% of the premix is burnt without lubricating anything ,
I find this hard to believe. The (stock) oil injection was designed to lubricate these areas: 1) apex seal to rotor housing contact, 2) the apex seal to apex seal groove, 3) "secondary" seals such as the corner and side seals. Pre-mixing would be superior (over Hurley rotor oil jet mod) for #1. Hurley oil jet mod would be superior to pre-mixing for #2. #3 would be debatable. What is undeniable is that pre-mixes burn a lot cleaner than engine motor oil. Pre-mixes were designed to burn and leave a slight deposits for lubrication. This means all parts of the combustion chamber is affected during combustion. How can it not lubricate anything?
http://www.nmma.org/certification/p...ndex.asp?bhcp=1
Would carbon build up be a concern if I use synthetic oil and my water injection system ?
Synthetic oil? Yes. I've seen a motor using Amsoil 20W50 which left nasty deposits next to the spark plugs holes. These deposits would cause the apex seal to chatter over them (obvious chatter marks). This made me cringe - I do not recommend running synthetic oils if you are still running the stock oil injection.
, also I owned a TURBO 11 with the mechanical OMP injecting engine oil , I opened the engine after about two years and there was absolutely NO carbon !!, so what gives ?.
Beats the hell out of me? I've seen 30k miles 13BT engines come out with a slight layer of carbon (under 0.5mm) on the rotor faces all the time.
I've got a pre-mix FAQ on my site:
http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/FAQ/premix.htm
-Ted
And look here for pics and commentary on the OMP.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=146142
The OMP has poor coverage...
04-26-03, 02:17 PM
#37
Originally posted by Pinfield357
so basically it just says that its for racers only because they dont think the everyday joe will bother with puting in premix a tthe station?
thanx RX7GUY i have always had respect for you and you always have tons of usefull information
so basically it just says that its for racers only because they dont think the everyday joe will bother with puting in premix a tthe station?
thanx RX7GUY i have always had respect for you and you always have tons of usefull information
Yeah I am willing to pour it in and have yet to forget to. Thanks for the compliment but I am just another Rotor Head trying to help everyone out with their RX-7 I think of you all as brothers and don't really mind helping you all out.
04-27-03, 05:56 AM
#43
FB=OS Giken LSD
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Rotary Performance recommends using Amsoil 2 cycle engine oil, not Marvel Mystery oil as I had read on one of these threads. Just my two cents. They seem to know their business.
04-27-03, 04:01 PM
#45
No it will not gush out. I did not do an oil change whe nI went with pre-mix. a little oil came out but not much. I would have done the oil change at the time but I was short on cash and i had just done it like a week pior to that.
04-28-03, 08:53 PM
#48
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A list of all things Amsoil:
http://members.shaw.ca/pdktech/products.htm
RTV is just high-temperature silicone. RTV is the commonly-used name, not a particular brand.
http://members.shaw.ca/pdktech/products.htm
RTV is just high-temperature silicone. RTV is the commonly-used name, not a particular brand.
04-29-03, 09:33 AM
#50
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ok thanx and i was looking at the amsoil stuff
the kind that is actually ment for 100:1 is really expesnsive
and they had another kind called injector oil that is basically the same so im gonna go with that
the kind that is actually ment for 100:1 is really expesnsive
and they had another kind called injector oil that is basically the same so im gonna go with that