zub,
got your pm of the 21st. Did you get mine? (I shoulda tracked it). Could you spec the op-amp? Thanks,

Curtis
'86 GXL autox'r

 

slvr7....if you ever get that rpm project solved, give me a pm, please. Also look at what geek posted. I looked at http://www.ggimages.com/index.html and after looking around under *others* I found the boost voltage clamp along with another project that would increase the primary injectors output above 7psi.

 

slvr7....got your pm.....been really busy lately but have not forgotten.

HAILERS......SWEET find on the homemade mods that's completely kick ***.......thanks.

zub

 

are you gonna tackle the other project hailers
if so let me tell you right now YOUR THE MAN

 

I really dont understand what you are babbling about

I found this DIY and made it within 1 month of buying my TII. Its actually a piece of cake, and didnt take me more than 30 minutes, from start to finish, even taking the FCD to the car and testing it.

Of course, installing the FCD near the boost sensor is 99% wrong, because there are a lot of reasons why the FCD could fail. Just install it near the ECU and you're good to go !!!

 

Slvr7....after looking into what to tack onto the end of your existing circuit and doing some looking around I think I may have found a MUCH better solution to the problem. I have picked up all the external parts (all 6 of them), and have ordered the IC. Will let all know when I make sure it works.

My question is what would people like to see in an RPM switch, shift light. I'm designing off of the premise that it should be able to be adjustable from ~1800RPM-~9000RPM when input is taken from either the leading or trailing side.

Will post the schematic once I get it all figured out and would be willing to make and sell some if people are interested but don't want to deal with the hassle of doing it themselves. packaged of course.


Thanks for the input....will keep you posted.

zub

 

does anyone have a paul stoakes fcd for sale or would possibly be willing to make me one. if so please let me know how much you want for it. i really need one

 

Hey zub,
looking forward to you improved solution.........as I said, the design I built seems to be subject to interference from the ignition.
I think the best way to have your poll question answered is to start a new thread.

Curtis
'86 GXL autox'r

 

zub.....I'd be interested in making a rpm switch cobbled out of parts readily available at RS or Jamecol.

The Ace
Greek Power The BABBLING is not about the Paul Stoakes fcd so much as the combination of his fcd combined with the water thermo sensor to make the primary fuel injectors inject more fuel at boost. Frankly not needed on my car because I'm running in low to mid 11's on my wideband air fuel meter from TECHEDGE. So I won't be making one that incorporates the water thermo sensor.

 

I'd like to be able to come up with good hard proof, as someone had long ago, but I still swear by this.

The ECU only uses the boost sensor for timing control, mainly retarding timing under boost. Air flow meter and temp sensors are used for fuel. This operation is very much in line with other "mass air flow" computer controlled systems, forced induction or not.

SO I wouldn't be terribly concerned about "inferior" FCD's, fuel delivery will be the same either way. If you're running up to and past the stock fuel cut point it's probably a good idea to retard timing from stock with or without the early acting FCD.

One could watch injector pulsewidth (Or a wideband) while driving with a fcd set to clamp at a significantly lower pressure level and prove this concept.
Also could PROBABLY sit in the driveway at 3000rpm with a timing light and see timing fall back with a simulated boost pressure acting on the sensor, or simulated voltage to the ECU.


There are several people that have put together forced induction cars using stock NA ecu's but properly sized injectors without problems.

SUMMARY: ECU provides fuel primarily based on air flow (measured by the AFM). As it should.


Cheap AFC? RPM switch? It's easy and not enough more expensive to matter to use bytes. See Megasquirt, Tomtek ignition (still testing) and soon Megajolt for inspiration. Buy a <$10 microcontroller and go to town!

 

faster7....what post are you responding to???????

http://www.ggimages.com/index.html.......that site. Then other pages, then RX7, then fuel controller is what is being refered to.

No talk about the boost/pressure sensor on a stock car controling the fuel mixture. Just an article of how Stoakes built a fuel cut defender and conbined it with the water thermo sensor to fake the thermo sensors input to the ECU to enrichen the mixure at boost.

 

Was commenting on the "faults" of non-stoakes FCD's, and the concern that when running a FCD the computer won't give the engine enough fuel. Computer giving the car not enough fuel might still be an issue, but has nothing to do with the changed boost signal!

The water thermo sensor hack is slick, I've considered it since Greg worked out the controller long ago. Fast forward: For <$175 you can put together a stand alone fuel computer. Use it just for additional injectors. Stock ECU fuel delivery problems solved! Browse the web for Megasquirt info...It's simple to make it run additionals only instead of the whole show, strip it down to just the map reading and perhaps air temp and go to town.

 

Hmmmmm.......I should think that this could be done easily if you just splice the boost pressure line: one through the FCD going to the ECU in order to get rid of the fuel-cut, and the other to a make-shift standalone to drive the injectors (or perhaps override the pulse from the ECU in order to make their duty cycle go up). I dont think that this should be difficult (I can see that another member has already done this), but I agree with you, way too much hassle for such a *minor* thing....

(anyway, my TII seemed to be able to provide the necessary fuel when my wastegate was stuck closed and I was boosting close to 1bar)

 

I make these FCD's. I can crank them out at about 10 a day if i try.... PM Guru if you want one... They come precalibrated. I make them as waterproof, heatproof and shock-(physical)-proof as humanly possible... Best thing is that they come with the wiring harnesses already attached. All you have to do is plug them in between the boost sensor and the computer (in the engine compartment. Guru will ship anywhere (I think).

 

how much for one

 

Someone might want to go to this site https://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncomm...nbr=501&ctgys=

and buy one of these and make it into a rpm switch. See or click on the spec sheet and look at page 9. That should give you some ideas. Especially those who want to make a rpm activated auxillary port system.

 

I made one about 3 months ago...

Cost me $12.30 and about 40 mins start to finish...

worked first go and only needed to be adjusted to 3.62V

and yes...it is adjustable in .01 V increments so you can get as close to the fuel cut line as possible!

Its fantastic.