mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

If I remember correctly you torqued your whole assembly down to 45 ft/lbs. Was that a recommendation you received from them? Were the threads at the end the same pitch as the front iron? What torque did you used to set them into the front iron also?

One main benefit I can see from these easily over the stock studs is how the torque is applied. The stockers are a long bolt (duh) but there's obviously flex when torquing the whole assembly. With the Mazdatrix/Guru studs the nut allows no deflection. I know this is old news to some but I'm outlining it for others.

It looks like I'm going to be going for the "oem sized" studs. They'll give me a higher clamping force that I really need. I don't "want" to use the Guru shaft yet, I might use the lighter Rx8 eccentric shaft. Next for me is to find the various race clearance notes...

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I don't remember what I used for the front iron torque. I never asked for torque ratings from Xtreme Rotaries. I used that torque rating based on what a local friend had been running on his engine for years using the stock bolts (and what Pettit Racing starting using).

ROTARY BRAIN

iTrader: (2)

Sorry to bring up an old thread, after about four (4) years of contemplating a three rotor install on my FD, I finally decided to it (one life to live). I am not a mechanic, I try to read as much post and topics as possible to gain knowledge. I am not looking for big power, Im happy with 450-500 on low boost. My question is (is a stud kit even needed for this power goal?). Secondly what are your thoughts on ths kit, rotary-works.com: Titanium Stud kit for 20B Street/Race Application. Im trying to avoid doing any sort of maching work as workmanship is poor where i live and i dont trust them at all. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks!

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

You don't need it IMO regardless of the series. Get some good tuning as that would be more important over studding at your perceived power level.

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

We've been making stud kit's for a long time for both engines and it is very important to get the machining done properly by someone who understands the mechanics of it, especially on a 20B if you do not have it done correctly you will create a issue with the centre line bore on the engine relative to the studs. At your power level 500whp or less I wouldn't concern myself with it as much. Just get a good solid oil pan brace to help with movement and if possible balance the rotating assembly.

~S~

ROTARY BRAIN

iTrader: (2)

ty for your advice, much appreciated!

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

Well this is a thread from the past posted by me . I ended up using this stud kit and have had no issues since.

TDIT

Adding input here despite this thread being a tad dated. I'm very happy with the Extreme stud kit in my 20BT. I'm only running 5psi and rev limit of 5000, so they aren't under great strain yet, but I have been driving the car for a year now and can report zero issues as a result of the kit. I sent the engine to them and had them prepare the housings and plates, plus balance and gap. Can't fault their work or product and would gladly use them again!