WJM Rotaries . 20B RX8 conversion

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Old Oct 31, 2014 | 07:33 AM
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WJM Rotaries . 20B RX8 conversion

I have just started a 20B RX8 conversion for a customer .1week in and have a fair bit done all ready .Old useless renesis engine removed ,all exhaust system, radiator and oil cooler and all other bits and pieces under hood .
I have fitted new radiator and front mount intercooler and re fitted the air conditioner condenser and re routed the pipes
I will keep you updated as more gets done
Attached Thumbnails WJM Rotaries . 20B RX8 conversion-20b-rx8-002.jpg   WJM Rotaries . 20B RX8 conversion-20b-rx8-001.jpg   WJM Rotaries . 20B RX8 conversion-20b-rx8-003.jpg   WJM Rotaries . 20B RX8 conversion-20b-rx8-004.jpg  
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 03:08 AM
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great thread already. I have a turbo 8 that I would like to swap a n/a 20b into at some point next year. I love the turbo renny but I have always been fascinated with the 3rotor. Hopefully you document the ins&outs well enough for me to know if should really undertake this myself or send it off. Planning on using the stock instrument panel? It's my understanding that some of the little things like the maf sensor must be maintained for the canbus system to operate corerctly. I'm assuming you know a t2 flywheel and cosmo counterweight will work if you are retaining the stock rx8 transmission. 1st series trans is a little weaker than the 2nd series rx8. It seems like some modification will need to be done on the turbo manifold side where you might have to trim a bit off the chassis for fitment and adjusting/adding to the steering knuckle. Of course, you probably already know all these things. Good luck with the build and I'll be keeping a close eye on this one
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 04:53 AM
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thinks that resi clutch slave is also going to clash on the 20b rear plate /oil filter
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Old Nov 3, 2014 | 12:04 AM
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Have done a little more ,fitted rear exhaust system to car
Attached Thumbnails WJM Rotaries . 20B RX8 conversion-20b-rx8-001.jpg   WJM Rotaries . 20B RX8 conversion-20b-rx8-002.jpg  
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 05:51 AM
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A few more parts fitted today 2 new oil coolers and braided oil lines and mounted the new radiator recovery tank
Attached Thumbnails WJM Rotaries . 20B RX8 conversion-20b-rx8-001.jpg   WJM Rotaries . 20B RX8 conversion-20b-rx8-002.jpg  
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 09:50 PM
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More bits fitted to car ,Mesh grills fitted ,& new LED tail lamps with shaded lenses
Attached Thumbnails WJM Rotaries . 20B RX8 conversion-20b-rx8-001.jpg   WJM Rotaries . 20B RX8 conversion-20b-rx8-002.jpg   WJM Rotaries . 20B RX8 conversion-20b-rx8-003.jpg  
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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 02:24 PM
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thanks for the updates.looking forward to seeing what you do next
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by bumpstart
thinks that resi clutch slave is also going to clash on the 20b rear plate /oil filter
Not sure bout that, I'm using the xtreme block off on mine for filter relocation, and the clutch slave does bolt up, tho u do have to bend the fluid pipe a little for clearance.
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 10:54 AM
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Another Aussie build here too. Progress slower tho, on a budget lol n inexperienced
20b rx8 - RX8Club.com
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 02:00 PM
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I follow your build on 8club Sin.... looking good.
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 05:48 AM
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Have been a bit slow lately , But finally got the motor in and mounts made and assembled his motor
Attached Thumbnails WJM Rotaries . 20B RX8 conversion-dsc01971.jpg   WJM Rotaries . 20B RX8 conversion-dsc01972.jpg  
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by WJM ROTARIES
Have been a bit slow lately , But finally got the motor in and mounts made and assembled his motor
Oooohhh man, don't tease!! More pics n info please?? Haha
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Old Jan 16, 2015 | 01:59 AM
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Engine mounts all finished and sump on and fits well
Attached Thumbnails WJM Rotaries . 20B RX8 conversion-dsc01973.jpg   WJM Rotaries . 20B RX8 conversion-dsc01975.jpg   WJM Rotaries . 20B RX8 conversion-dsc01980.jpg   WJM Rotaries . 20B RX8 conversion-dsc01976.jpg  
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Old Jan 16, 2015 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by WJM ROTARIES
Engine mounts all finished and sump on and fits well
U make the sump?

What are the dimensions?

I need to change mine too.
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Old Jan 16, 2015 | 03:33 PM
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And why you go so HUGE with the passenger side engine bracket for the mount? Extra strength for the motor,? Like external bracing
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Old Jan 17, 2015 | 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by SiNfidelity
And why you go so HUGE with the passenger side engine bracket for the mount? Extra strength for the motor,? Like external bracing
Yes is part of my external dowling system
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 03:39 PM
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I have a similar oil sump (not as pretty as yours though). You'll love the added oil capacity. With my twin 25 row oil coolers, my capacity is now 10 quarts. These engines need alot of cooling so this added capacity really helps keep the temps in check. .
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by t-von
I have a similar oil sump (not as pretty as yours though). You'll love the added oil capacity. With my twin 25 row oil coolers, my capacity is now 10 quarts. These engines need alot of cooling so this added capacity really helps keep the temps in check. .
Did u purchase ur sump or build it? I'm looking for an inexpensive option for mine. I need it to be shallower where it's deep and deeper where it's shallow, so basically a flat level bottom- no valleys and mountains lol.

Did u use brand name coolers or cheapie universal? I was goin to use twin setrabs but they're costly and there's so many universal cheapie so around I wonder if ANY of them are actually ok quality?
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by SiNfidelity
Did u purchase ur sump or build it? I'm looking for an inexpensive option for mine. I need it to be shallower where it's deep and deeper where it's shallow, so basically a flat level bottom- no valleys and mountains lol.

Did u use brand name coolers or cheapie universal? I was goin to use twin setrabs but they're costly and there's so many universal cheapie so around I wonder if ANY of them are actually ok quality?
The sump was made by another rotary builder here in Australia .I used cheaper coolers that are good quality
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by SiNfidelity

Did u purchase ur sump or build it? I'm looking for an inexpensive option for mine. I need it to be shallower where it's deep and deeper where it's shallow, so basically a flat level bottom- no valleys and mountains lol.

Did u use brand name coolers or cheapie universal? I was goin to use twin setrabs but they're costly and there's so many universal cheapie so around I wonder if ANY of them are actually ok quality?

I built mine. My engine is moved back and lowered in the fd so the stock oil pan was about 2" from the ground. This was when I had stock tires and lowered suspension. Didn't take long for me to scrape it on a test drive. New sump has 1/2" plate with 2" sump. It's not perfect and leaks at the flange so I still need to tweak it some. To me, heat exchangers are heat exhangers. As long as they hold the pressure and have lots of fins, and have proper ducting, they should work just fine. Coolers I just bought some cheapie black 25 row coolers off ebay. My radiator is a cheapie 3 row off a 2nd gen Supra. It makes a Koyo look like a little boy. They've held up so far.
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 05:24 AM
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Thanks tvon n wjm.

Do either of u know the exact order for the omp lines to connect to the housings?
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by SiNfidelity
Thanks tvon n wjm.

Do either of u know the exact order for the omp lines to connect to the housings?
Does not matter there is no order usually where they all fit neatly
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Old Feb 4, 2015 | 04:13 PM
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Damn I want that sump. Grrr. Sooo expensive.
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 09:24 AM
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How's the progress?

Curious about what rx8 factory sensors u will retain?

Knock, engine water temp, oil pressure etc. I'm unsure whether to use Rene sensors, 20b or aftermarket sensors for this purpose.

I'll have external gauges anyway but I need the rx8 ECU to function properly too.
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 09:56 AM
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I was going to use the reni sensors but owner has pulled the pin on car so looks like I am not going to finish job
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