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Another option that may work pretty well would be OS Giken. Although they are a full metallic I have had numerous twin and triple plate setups in my various cars and found them easy to daily.
The "R" series has a separate hub that we could specify to fit the T56. I enjoyed my R3C in my FD and although it wasn't OEM drivability the learning curve wasn't bad.
PM me if you need help dealing with them, I have some friends that work there.
ok so i dropped off the bell to the shop and it looks like it will work with no issues plenty of room so i guess the 7.25 clutch myth with the quicktime bell is exactly that...a myth
Howard- what flywheel are you running with the McLeod RST?
What slave cylinder?
That clutch drives awesome behind LSx setups and is super light pedal pressure, non grabby.... rated at 800rwhp.
I sell all McLeod and Tremec products.... but have yet to get a straight answer on what flywheel and slave will work running a Quicktime Bellhousing behind a 13B/20B setup.
i'll give you a clear answer. Any clutch that'll fit onto flywheel with RX7 ring gear seems to give no problem with quicktime bellhousing. It'll be custom setup, but these american companies seem to have no issue coming up with what we need. It's much better than dealing with all these JDM bullcrap retailers charging arm and leg for anything that have to do with rotary. I got my twin clutch setup custom machined by clutchmasters for about $1700 shipped. It included the flywheel, spacers, etc--everything you need. Mcleod also offers the same service for very reasonable price---just about couple hundred over what they charge for off the shelf products.
as for T56, you need to machine the input shaft so that it'll only stick out 6" from the front plate of the transmission and leave 1" for pilot engagement shaft if you are using quicktime bell housing. No off-shelf t56 will work with quicktime bell housing unless you space it out using spacer between the bell and rear iron. but I just had mine machined since it was cheaper and cleaner.
btw, the cost also included hydraulic throw out bearing and lines.
to clarify what i meant by t56 input shaft. The total length you want to stick out from the front plate of the transmission should be precisely 6" which means the splined portion of it should be precisely 5", and the pilot engagement shaft should be precisely 1".
For you guys that are running the OE GM hydraulic release bearing, I assume you spaced it correctly so there's about 1/8" clearance. Are you guys running a clutch pedal stop with the OE Mazda Clutch master cylinder?
Oh man! This is some great information! I'm surprised nobody has done a write up on this swap yet.
I'm new to the RX7 world but pretty detailed oriented and mechanically inclined. I've been using a whiteboard to write down what's needed for a T56 swap (I happen to have a Ford model. Still 26 spline) and will post an easy guide and list of materials needed. I need a lot of parts and will focus on the mating of the T56 first.
Currently I have:
-Auto bellhousing
-Auto Starter
-Auto counter weight (so I won't need to anything…just buy the flywheel, and bolt it to my existing automatic counterweight.)
-T56 (Ford Style) I chose this because the face of the trany to the tip of the input shaft is ~5.64"....THIS IS ~1" less than the GM style
Things I need to buy:
If anybody has any of these I would love to know and possible buy
- Mazda Clutch Master cylinder
- Mazda clutch pedal (FD01-41-30XA)
- Mazda clutch pedal gasket (H00141443)
- Mazda brake pedal (FD01-43-30XB)
- Leather Shifter boot (FD01-64-3306-00)
- Adapter plate Mcleod T-56 adapter plate:
- 8-207 GM style.
I guess there's another style a 8-204 which is for a Ford style but I can't find it for sale.
On this piece of the puzzle I have also sent an email to Mr. Coleman, americanpowertrain (APGM-10003G) and Chipsmotorsports to see if they make an adapter for the T56 to Auto bellhousing. I see Collins makes an adapter for the Nissan 350/370 tranny so I sent them a message to see if they could make one for the T56.
- Strange Transmission 31 spline Yokes U1659
I'm choosing a yoke so that I can be able to use my stock drive shaft wile just modifying one end. But I'm also thinking maybe buying a lightweight Ford drive shaft and modifying the diff side's companion flange. Does anyone know where I could buy a companion flange that will press onto a stock Mazda diff?
- Exedy lightweight flywheel: zf01
As for the clutch I've scoured through EXEDY's product listing (like all 10000 products) and found a couple.
- Exedy 04138 (Its meant for a S10 but it should work)
-Mazda RST 9 11/16 x 1 1/8 26Tooth (this is copied from Mr. Coleman’s setup)
I don't know what kind of hydraulic throw-out bearing to use - McLeod 14-302 Hydraulic throw-out bearing? Or maybe the Tilton 60-6102? Or maybe a cheap one off a Mustang like the EXEDY BRG0159?
If you want to go with Quick time bellhousing I found this spacer RM-199 from Quicktime (I believe it’s to fix the issue of the bellhousing being too short). I have also sent messages out to Holley about which starter to use with there bellhousings (looks like there might be a couple different types of 13b to ______ style tranny now) so I can relay that information on here.
That’s all I can think about for today. I’m really excited to get this project started!
btw, the cost also included hydraulic throw out bearing and lines.
to clarify what i meant by t56 input shaft. The total length you want to stick out from the front plate of the transmission should be precisely 6" which means the splined portion of it should be precisely 5", and the pilot engagement shaft should be precisely 1".
"The McLeod RST Clutch is amazing. You get all the power holding you could imagine in a twin disc, full-face organic setup. It's the ONLY option I'd run with T56 for a street car."
yes...
i haven't been following this thread but my Mcleod setup continues to impress me. i run a Mcleod custom rotary flywheel and the RST clutch package. it is almost stock clutch pedal and feathers like a dream.
my setup is an auto rear iron, auto belhousing w a 1/4 inch shaved off the back end, my adapter plate ($385 plus shipping), auto starter, Mcleod throw out bearing... the Mcleod TOB has a spotty rep so i recommend the Tilton 6000, shortened driveshaft (i run a really nice Quartermaster alum w replaceable U joints), a GTO shifter mechanism, a Lou's Short Shifter w a Hurst (love it) white 2 inch shifter ball.
i wired the reverse lockout switch to one of the rocker switches on the center panel near the shifter.,
Last edited by Howard Coleman; 06-10-18 at 09:31 AM.
that auto starter bellhousing would be bolt on. no cutting of transmission is needed. if you buy manual starter bellhousing, you will need to cut front of t56 whic isn't a big deal imho and will save you some cost and headache of potential clearance issues depending on where your engine is mounted.
both bellhousings are 6" in depth including scatter shield. one thing I don't like about auto housing is that the starter plate is welded with wrong offset. told this to QT and they basically told me to f*** off. i suppose i can weld up the holes and use it as a dog bowl.
it has been a week since i swapped in the Tilton 6051 hydraulic clutch release bearing. works perfectly. do not go near the Mcleod bearing. also, if you go w the RST clutch package i suggest the aluminum flywheel.
08-07-17, 05:52 AM
