So Ive been slowly researching the 20B FD conversion, I attempt to do it one day when conditions are right. The thing on my mind right now is subframes. Ive been researching a great deal on all of them, and other mounting methods and have a list of questions about all of them. SO PLEASE anybody with actual experience with these products, chime in.


PETTIT RACING: This what i'm currently leaning towards, as it allows be to keep a set of goals. I want to utilize the factory fd A/C and P/S. Also, I dont want to tuck the engine back in the transmission tunnel, I want the full 3 rotor manifold in plain view. The things that concern me are with relocating the steering rack. We all know moving the steering rack will create bump steer. From what ive been reading pettit seems to have a complete fix with their bump steer correction kit. However, ive read multiple times that moving the rack as a whole destroys the ankerman angle in the steering geometry. SO my question is this, anybody that actually HAS the kit, is handling adversely affected in anyway from the stock FD setup. If so how bad is it? Give examples?

ASPEC: From what I've read, you make a setup very similar to pettit's idea. However what i haven't been able to find out is if you make a bumpsteer correction kit for your subframe. Lastly, is the engine mounted in the same spot as pettits? The reason why I asked, is if I got your GT42R kit for the 20B (love the manifold work, truly a work of art) Would it matter if im using pettits kit or your kit for fitment issues. Also, the handling question would also apply to anybody with this rack.

DEFINED AUTOWORKS: You have a unique approach. You don't have to move the rack which is ideal. But I have a couple of questions with your setup. First of all, you cut and lower the stock lower intake manifold, to allow for hood clearance. Does shortening the overall intake runner length have any adverse side effects? Idle quality effected perhaps? I've heard before runner length and manifold volume size are calculated for driveability reasons. Also, I also read in a thread that you were working on a solution that would allow you to retain the P/S and A/C. I've also heard you say you can retain A/C and P/S if you remove the turbos. Was that the solution you were talking about, or are you actually working on a solution that would allow you to retain P/S and A/C and keep the turbo.


Other suggestions: Feel free to suggest something else, but keep in mind I need to meet these goals. I want the intake manifold completely in the engine bay, I don't want it tucked in the firewall. I want to retain factory P/S and A/C. I would like to avoid modifying the intake manifold if at all possible.

If anybody could chime in thats had some experience that be great!

 

The intake being shortened has no effect at all on drivability or idle quality, or gas mileage. When the 20b was made from the factory, it was FAR from a sports car setup. It was made for a luxury car. And a luxury car needs alot of bottom end power/torque with no real top end at all. The tiny little turbos prove this point as well, all bottom end, no top end. So figure the stock intake was made to length with a peak torque at 5k and below. Removing a couple inches will shift the peak torque a bit higher in the rpm band. Spool and bottom end are not effected, as with our dyno runs vs others I compared to. The torque holds out great making power to 8k+ rpms. Honestly, even if the intake didnt hit the hood, all the stock intake setups we do have a shortened version on it. Its just more ideal, simply put.

The A/c and power steering can be kept with turbo. We made a prototype setup and it has the needed clearance. My machinist has been so slammed that I cant make it into production yet. If someone orders it however, I will just contract out another machinist to do the work.

On n/a the alternator can be placed on the right side of the waterpump, letting the a/c and p/s be kept as well. This was before we figured out the newer prototype.

I dont want to make this into a small book of a response, but moving the rack down, then getting correction makes for a compounded issue. Less rim clearance, sway bar relocation, ground clearance, and more are some things that result.

 

Absolutely fantastic news. No rush to finish it up, I'm just glad to know that it is for sure in the works. Can you tell me some more about this new setup? Is the engine lowered any, and is the entire engine/transmission moved any farther back. I was under the impression that the height and placement was not an issue with your setup due to the shortened manifold, but I want to be sure.

I suppose its to early to tell yet, but I suppose my next question is if ASPEC's GT42R kit will fit with this setup. Maybe we could find out that answer in this thread, provided we get the proper details and measurements from both of you.

 

The transmission is not moved at all forward or backward. The engine is actually just a tad higher than the factory 13b, just enough to clear the rack. The new setup is identical mounts and everything, only difference is how the alternator is placed. Its a bit more elaborate of a machined bracket so the price is $400 more. So the whole kit is pricey, but its the only one to truly keep everything, and have a factory subframe.


It should fit aspecs kit, the only real difference is that the engine is about 2" higher than a subframe version. The shock tower may or may not be the only issue with fitment. We can easily make you a turbo manifold etc to verify it all works if aspec turns out not to fit.

 

If you're planning on auto crossing the car then Logan's (Defined Autoworks) kit is the way to go as the rules are very picky and do not allow for modifications to the subframe that would give an advandtage.

I believe the other kit/subframes would "add additional rigidity" to the entire setup and would not pass a tech inspection (at least in SM/2).