quick clarification question about a 20B build
Thread Starter
always modding
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,667
Likes: 3
From: on a tiny island in the middle of a sea
quick clarification question about a 20B build
I was thinking of a NA ITB 20B motor for my FC
I live in the middle of no where with no appreciation for the rotary... I am a lone gunman.. building and tuning my own rotary's
the 20B being so rare and unique is next to impossible to find..
if any do end up in the dubai port(about a 1000km's from me) they get scooped up very quickly to be sold for huge profits to the americans
so i'm stuck with mostly 2 rotor motors..
I have a couple REWs, a couple 13bt's and a Cosmo RE (bought this one accidently when i was promised a 3 rotor doh)
anyway.. so the chances of me finding and shipping a 3 rotor half way around the world makes it mad expensive.. (5k for a stock motor, and around another 2k to ship it)
so I was thinking.. to assemble a 3 rotor shortblock from all the parts I have laying around..
all I would need that's 20B specific... would be the E-shaft, center plate, and the oil pan correct?
front and rear and inter. housing can be from the RE cosmo, flywheel and back will be Turbo II or FD (i have a spare of both) I have plenty of Rotors laying around of various letter codes.. finding 3 with 2 letter stamps and same compression shouldn't be a problem... otherwise there's the RX8 high compression route as well... housings can be FD's or S5 or RE's
front cover will be the S4, with OMP blocked off running premix.
everything else I could basically re-cycle from my other spare motors and then purchase and setup the ITB setup after that..
is my assumptions correct? or am I missing a major component to the equation?
I live in the middle of no where with no appreciation for the rotary... I am a lone gunman.. building and tuning my own rotary's
the 20B being so rare and unique is next to impossible to find..
if any do end up in the dubai port(about a 1000km's from me) they get scooped up very quickly to be sold for huge profits to the americans
so i'm stuck with mostly 2 rotor motors..
I have a couple REWs, a couple 13bt's and a Cosmo RE (bought this one accidently when i was promised a 3 rotor doh)
anyway.. so the chances of me finding and shipping a 3 rotor half way around the world makes it mad expensive.. (5k for a stock motor, and around another 2k to ship it)
so I was thinking.. to assemble a 3 rotor shortblock from all the parts I have laying around..
all I would need that's 20B specific... would be the E-shaft, center plate, and the oil pan correct?
front and rear and inter. housing can be from the RE cosmo, flywheel and back will be Turbo II or FD (i have a spare of both) I have plenty of Rotors laying around of various letter codes.. finding 3 with 2 letter stamps and same compression shouldn't be a problem... otherwise there's the RX8 high compression route as well... housings can be FD's or S5 or RE's
front cover will be the S4, with OMP blocked off running premix.
everything else I could basically re-cycle from my other spare motors and then purchase and setup the ITB setup after that..
is my assumptions correct? or am I missing a major component to the equation?
I was thinking of a NA ITB 20B motor for my FC
I live in the middle of no where with no appreciation for the rotary... I am a lone gunman.. building and tuning my own rotary's
the 20B being so rare and unique is next to impossible to find..
if any do end up in the dubai port(about a 1000km's from me) they get scooped up very quickly to be sold for huge profits to the americans
so i'm stuck with mostly 2 rotor motors..
I have a couple REWs, a couple 13bt's and a Cosmo RE (bought this one accidently when i was promised a 3 rotor doh)
anyway.. so the chances of me finding and shipping a 3 rotor half way around the world makes it mad expensive.. (5k for a stock motor, and around another 2k to ship it)
so I was thinking.. to assemble a 3 rotor shortblock from all the parts I have laying around..
all I would need that's 20B specific... would be the E-shaft, center plate, and the oil pan correct?
front and rear and inter. housing can be from the RE cosmo, flywheel and back will be Turbo II or FD (i have a spare of both) I have plenty of Rotors laying around of various letter codes.. finding 3 with 2 letter stamps and same compression shouldn't be a problem... otherwise there's the RX8 high compression route as well... housings can be FD's or S5 or RE's
front cover will be the S4, with OMP blocked off running premix.
everything else I could basically re-cycle from my other spare motors and then purchase and setup the ITB setup after that..
is my assumptions correct? or am I missing a major component to the equation?
I live in the middle of no where with no appreciation for the rotary... I am a lone gunman.. building and tuning my own rotary's
the 20B being so rare and unique is next to impossible to find..
if any do end up in the dubai port(about a 1000km's from me) they get scooped up very quickly to be sold for huge profits to the americans
so i'm stuck with mostly 2 rotor motors..
I have a couple REWs, a couple 13bt's and a Cosmo RE (bought this one accidently when i was promised a 3 rotor doh)
anyway.. so the chances of me finding and shipping a 3 rotor half way around the world makes it mad expensive.. (5k for a stock motor, and around another 2k to ship it)
so I was thinking.. to assemble a 3 rotor shortblock from all the parts I have laying around..
all I would need that's 20B specific... would be the E-shaft, center plate, and the oil pan correct?
front and rear and inter. housing can be from the RE cosmo, flywheel and back will be Turbo II or FD (i have a spare of both) I have plenty of Rotors laying around of various letter codes.. finding 3 with 2 letter stamps and same compression shouldn't be a problem... otherwise there's the RX8 high compression route as well... housings can be FD's or S5 or RE's
front cover will be the S4, with OMP blocked off running premix.
everything else I could basically re-cycle from my other spare motors and then purchase and setup the ITB setup after that..
is my assumptions correct? or am I missing a major component to the equation?
Thread Starter
always modding
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,667
Likes: 3
From: on a tiny island in the middle of a sea
Thanks for the info guys..
I didn't realize there was differences in the irons as well..
Don't worry Japan2LA I know u're the goto guy for the 20B parts!
I didn't realize there was differences in the irons as well..
Don't worry Japan2LA I know u're the goto guy for the 20B parts!
have you thought about going the short crank?
http://www.kiwi-re.com/wwd_showroom_cat10_1.php
NZ$5,500 for the whole kit. Maybe you could get it cheaper through precision engineering?
http://www.kiwi-re.com/wwd_showroom_cat10_1.php
NZ$5,500 for the whole kit. Maybe you could get it cheaper through precision engineering?
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