Ive been debating posting this due to looking like too much of an idiot but here I go

I have already bought a FD for this project, I want to do as much work as possible myself (for some strange reason I enjoy it ). If I fail, I fail . I envision the car as a track car that I plan on keeping street legal but rarely, if ever drive on public roads.

I want a NA motor and my ultimate everything goes great power goal is 400rwhp. I would be very happy to make 350-370rwhp. From what I gather a PP is needed but do I need a semi or full PP to make those numbers? Do I give up any reliabitily between the semi PP and full PP? Im not really concerned about it but if it was a great difference I would look at the options.

Also I don't even want to attempt making the ITBs (seems very difficult) but I have found this kit and was wondering if anyone knew about the company? I haven't spoken with them but it appears to include everything.
http://www.xtremerotaries.com/main2/...ice%20List.pdf

Another thing I have no idea how to determine is the whole header/intake/etc lengths concept. Im totally lost on this stuff. Can someone point me to a good website/book explaining it?

I haven't really seen anything about what computers people are running for NA 20bs. Seems most 20b turbo people are using Microtech, is this true for NA?

From what I understand about this process so far, I need:
20b motor , series doesnt seem to matter w/my power goals and s5 rotors (whats the difference between s4 v s5?) and all the crap for a rebuild
Get everything balanced, eshaft, counterweights, rotors (flywheel needed for this procedure?)
subframe/motor mounts
computer system/ gauges rewired (i dislike electronics haha)

What else am I missing that big stuff or must have to make it work?

It seems very few run n/a 20bs I really am excitied about building this car.

TIA for anyones help and advice, I need it.

 

check out gtorx7's setup, or ask him via PM for some help. . .

 

^ i second that.

check out his thread of his buildup. it should be further down on this page.

 

already read all 22 pages plus everything else i could find on this subject. He didnt really go into details about some stuff. i realize that few people (gtorx7, a few race teams and ?) run this type setup so info is limitied.

Im just trying to limit the amount of money i blow on mistakes lol.

Id like to email speedsource but i dont know how helpful they would be(i actually wouldnt expect any but you never know), plus its right in the middle of the race series for them.

 

I will have a handful of more new information that I have learned over the past 2 years, once the second version of my setup is complete (getting REAL close). Until then I will tell you that to make 400rwhp or even near it, the cost of the n/a 20B more than doubles (which is already very pricey). The intake setup you found is a very nice kit, note the 60mm throttles which are very large, and very race track oriented. I am going to be selling 20B intakes complete, and full 321 stainless n/a headers as well. These will be offered first for side port, then p-port. They are built per order biases. Oh, and you no longer need a pesky aftermarket subframe to install it all .

 

What parts need to be upgraded to make just 350rwhp? As I said 400rwp was the ultimate great goal not a number I have to have.

PMing you soon.

 

hey mate i think i might have some of the information you are after because i am in the process of finishing off my 20b pp project it has been long and sometimes very hard to get information but i have stuck with it and i can see the light at the end of the tunnel Here are some pics of my setup and ps im using the extreme rotaries set up and i can tell you his machine work is second to none.



















cheers dave

 

350rwhp is alot cheaper and pretty easy, its the 400rwhp+ that changes everything.

 

Looks GREAT Dave!

How long have you been at the project?

Mind sharing what you have done with your motor?

Did extreme rotaries build your motor?

 

The fully polished out e-shaft looks GREAT! What does GURU charge to do that?

 

Rx-8 rotors, nice touch! Really the only way to go with a full P-port anyway. Looking good!

 

Hey guys
Very obsevent GToRX7 yes they are RX8 rotors, they have been clearanced and the apex seal grooves have been deepened and widened for 3mm carbon seal, and the plates have been nitrited and all ports filled with special heat resistant resin. Housing are brand new with 45mm pp with 60mm throttle and 75 mm trumpets its all about air speed!!!! Crank has been Xtreme coated which to answer Japan2la's question cost about $400 Australian dollars. The whole assembly has been balenced from front crank pully to clucth. I will be running Microtech lts12 with 3 900cc injectors and 3 550cc injectors. Gearbox is is a supra 5 speed and diff is a 4.3 hilux, Series 6 4 pot brakes on the front. Oh and no i am building the engine myself have a workshop here in australia Guru does all my machine work.

 

Wow, top notch all the way. I think you answered every question I had, lol. Thanks very much for sharing.

What needed to be done to the RX8 rotors to make them work? Why use those over the s5 rotors or some other rotor(age, better design, higer comp?)?

What is your power goal?

 

Hey
Im using rx8 rotor mainly for the 10:1 compression ratio. The only real mod you need for the RX8 rotors is deepening the apex seal groove, the groove is very shallow on these because the apex seal doesnt have to run over an exhaust port as all the ports on an rx8 are side ports. The RX8 rotors also run an oil scraper ring to control blow by which i am not running. i would also recommend shamfering your factory ports on you steel plates as the side seals are much larger this just reduces the risk of them hooking up.

cheers dave

 

Ive never really been able to get a clear answer from anyone whether or not renisis rotors make any more power in an older sideport setup. I know this isnt the same as the engine is being built with a full p-port, but do you have any info supporting the fact that these rotors will make more power, or just hoping? I know they are slightly higher compression than the S5 N/A rotors, but I know some that have tried have actually made less power with them.

 

In a older side port there is no advantage other than weight to use Rx-8 rotors. In a P-port it is a fact that Rx-8 rotors can make more power.

 

Before I attempt to order an ITB setup from X-treme Rotaries, is there a good shop in the US that can make this for me? Nothing against Australia at all but would feel better ordering from a US maker.

Thanks

 

All the engine builders I know of including myself have never made any more power with rx-8 rotors. Actually most made less. If you're going to use rx-8 rotors for the weight benefit then it's also not worth it because you can machine a set of S-5 rotors to a much lighter weight than what's even available by lightened rx-8 rotors and have the assembly balanced. Even with the rx-8 rotors the assembly must be balanced. I'm not even going to get into the problems with the rx-8 side seals.

 

Why are you making less power with the 8 rotors? Sealing issues I assume? How much more mathematical power would a 10:1 versus a 9.7:1 be?

Does anyone know what the 20b race teams are running like Speedsource, JGTC RE Amen?

Crispeed who did you PP work and how much do they charge?

Any help is welcome since some aren't taking me very serious.