Pics of 20B recessed into and FC???
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 595
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From: Northern California
Pics of 20B recessed into and FC???
I know that people usually choose to just use the stock motor mount points in an FC to 20B conversion, but the OTHER option is to recess the motor into the firewall and keep the weight distribution in check.
Does anyone have pics of this type of install? Id love to see what it looks like!
Does anyone have pics of this type of install? Id love to see what it looks like!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 595
Likes: 0
From: Northern California
I ask this for a really good reason:
I spoke with paul at K2RD when i went to his shop 8 months ago and saw his 20b FC. He said that it really messed with his handling and braking once he put the 20B into the car. The car didnt handle very well any more and the breaks werent very good even with brake upgrades. He commented that he wished he recessed the engine back into the car, it would make these things better.
Any comments on this?
Any pics of a recessed 20b?
I spoke with paul at K2RD when i went to his shop 8 months ago and saw his 20b FC. He said that it really messed with his handling and braking once he put the 20B into the car. The car didnt handle very well any more and the breaks werent very good even with brake upgrades. He commented that he wished he recessed the engine back into the car, it would make these things better.
Any comments on this?
Any pics of a recessed 20b?
I found the handling to be basically the same, no real notable difference, as for
braking lets just say even with the stock brakes, the car stops really
well, only once did I have a fade and that was a hard stop from 160+mph.
As for sway bar yes I have had a bar on the car now for some time.
Once the bar was installed handling improved greatly.
so who ever was telling you that the 20b effected handling and braking was telling you a story, and didnt
have the know how to finish the job by adding a sway bar
matt
braking lets just say even with the stock brakes, the car stops really
well, only once did I have a fade and that was a hard stop from 160+mph.
As for sway bar yes I have had a bar on the car now for some time.
Once the bar was installed handling improved greatly.
so who ever was telling you that the 20b effected handling and braking was telling you a story, and didnt
have the know how to finish the job by adding a sway bar
matt
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From: Canada
Yeah, if you search around the forum you will find that the general consensus (sp?) is that it doesn't affect the handling very much, at least not enough to care on a street car (assuming the swap is done right and has the sway bar)
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 26,664
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From: n
Originally posted by now
As for sway bar yes I have had a bar on the car now for some time.
Once the bar was installed handling improved greatly.
As for sway bar yes I have had a bar on the car now for some time.
Once the bar was installed handling improved greatly.
Can you drop any secrets?
We're about to torch the stock bar so it fits soon.
Else, my initial lead for an economical front FC bar fell through (unless we do a 10 unit initial buy in
), but I'm tracking down another lead for this bar now...-Ted
made up my bar last year and it cost me nothing
when i got my first 3 rotor it came in the front clip,
so when i was looking for a bar i took a look at the
cosmo bar and with a little work it fits great.
what is needed is to grind off the welds that hold on
the ends rotate them to put the bend in the correct
place but before welding them back to the bar cut the
bend off that the link bolts to because it needs to be
welded back on to line up with the rx7 link location.
now i am almost sure no one can picture what i just
said I will have to take a picture as soon as i have time.
matt
when i got my first 3 rotor it came in the front clip,
so when i was looking for a bar i took a look at the
cosmo bar and with a little work it fits great.
what is needed is to grind off the welds that hold on
the ends rotate them to put the bend in the correct
place but before welding them back to the bar cut the
bend off that the link bolts to because it needs to be
welded back on to line up with the rx7 link location.
now i am almost sure no one can picture what i just
said I will have to take a picture as soon as i have time.
matt
Originally posted by RETed
Wow, did I miss the thread for this?
Can you drop any secrets?
We're about to torch the stock bar so it fits soon.
Else, my initial lead for an economical front FC bar fell through (unless we do a 10 unit initial buy in ), but I'm tracking down another lead for this bar now...
-Ted
Wow, did I miss the thread for this?
Can you drop any secrets?
We're about to torch the stock bar so it fits soon.
Else, my initial lead for an economical front FC bar fell through (unless we do a 10 unit initial buy in
), but I'm tracking down another lead for this bar now...-Ted
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,857
Likes: 3,243
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally posted by now
made up my bar last year and it cost me nothing
when i got my first 3 rotor it came in the front clip,
so when i was looking for a bar i took a look at the
cosmo bar and with a little work it fits great.
what is needed is to grind off the welds that hold on
the ends rotate them to put the bend in the correct
place but before welding them back to the bar cut the
bend off that the link bolts to because it needs to be
welded back on to line up with the rx7 link location.
now i am almost sure no one can picture what i just
said I will have to take a picture as soon as i have time.
matt
made up my bar last year and it cost me nothing
when i got my first 3 rotor it came in the front clip,
so when i was looking for a bar i took a look at the
cosmo bar and with a little work it fits great.
what is needed is to grind off the welds that hold on
the ends rotate them to put the bend in the correct
place but before welding them back to the bar cut the
bend off that the link bolts to because it needs to be
welded back on to line up with the rx7 link location.
now i am almost sure no one can picture what i just
said I will have to take a picture as soon as i have time.
matt
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,390
Likes: 2
From: San Francisco, CA
My engine has been lowered 1-1/2" or 1-3/4" (I can never remember what I ended up with) and moved back 4-1/2". I do have a dry sump system on the engine as this eliminates the oil pan and allows for me to do this. The flat 'pan' is actually a 3/4" cnc'd aluminum plate that will help eliminate torsional stress many times better than extra dowelling. I did have to take out 1/2" at the deep point of a small area from the sump plate to allow for the steering rack mount and I trimmed off the lips on the rack mount brackets. Basically the engine sits on the rack. The engine mounts were easy as I was able to choose anywhere along the bottom of the sump plate to mount them to. The engine is out of the car right now, as always so it seems.
Shifter relocation was a snap as this is just 1/2" further than where the rear shifter housing bolts will line up with the fronts. Thanks j9 and the guys at Autotech for that tip (check out their engine relocations in fd's @ autotech.com).
The tranny is just a plug at the moment as the internals will be swapped for Guru guts. New tranny mount bracket wasn't a problem. New driveshaft...a drop in the bucket.
I still have not done any of the exhaust/turbo etc. but there shouldn't be any extra issues with that stuff.
Shifter relocation was a snap as this is just 1/2" further than where the rear shifter housing bolts will line up with the fronts. Thanks j9 and the guys at Autotech for that tip (check out their engine relocations in fd's @ autotech.com).
The tranny is just a plug at the moment as the internals will be swapped for Guru guts. New tranny mount bracket wasn't a problem. New driveshaft...a drop in the bucket.
I still have not done any of the exhaust/turbo etc. but there shouldn't be any extra issues with that stuff.
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