RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

So i just got my subframe in the car. had a few problems getting it in but its in finally. now the problem or question that im faced with is how the steering rack arms (coming off the subframe) are "supposed" to be constructed. both drivers and passengers side arms are square tubing with holes for the steering rack bolts, however the passengers side is completely square (id think it should be notched), and the drivers side is "slightly" notched to clear the steering rack bracket (which protrudes somewhat at the bottom) but still doesn't seem to be notched enough. from looking at the stock subframe there are significant dips in both arms to accommodate the brackets.

so my questions are:
1. is it supposed to be asymmetrical or was this something that was overlooked by whoever was constructing this particular frame? (also if they are uneven heights wouldn't this screw up the suspension geometry even MORE than is already induced by this frame?)
2. what would you guys suggest i do? shim it with washers, or take it back out and grind down the arms to clear the stock steering rack brackets?









Thanks as usual for fielding my many-many questions -Heath

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Not sure if I fully understand your question. Pretty much all aftermarket sub-frames that place the engine in the stock location have the rack mounts that way to clear the oil pan. This is where all the bumpsteer comes from. Just go with the bumpsteer correction kit and you should be fine.

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

no i mean, the mounts for the steering rack seem to have been constructed improperly. one side had a groove for the rack, the other side doesn't. the steering rack protrudes from the bottom about 3/8" ... basically when i sit the rack on the mounts there is a gap that i can stick my finger in between the bottom of the rack and the top of the mounts on the subframe. i dont want to go screwing around with it but cam is not returning my calls and candy is the one answering the phone and the only advice that she gave me was "i think youre supposed to modify the rack or something" which im pretty sure is not the case.


(also, regarding the bump-steer correction kit... i have one, but i have no idea how im supposed to tell when its adjusted properly, or how far to adjust it for that matter. also every time i mess with the bump-steer correction kit wont i need an alignment? i need howard coleman lol)

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

heres the problem:

t-von

iTrader: (8)

^ Hmmm I would contact David Hayes. He has a Pettit subframe. Maybe he can help.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

i haven't built a 20b fd although i have spent time determining bump steer.

i clearly see the diff between the two mounting brackets. if they are not level w the lateral brace behind them my guess is that perhaps something might be missing from your steering rack and that it fits where the notch is?

as to bumpsteer... this is a major issue that must be addressed. the 20bfd that i fiddled w had 1/2 inch toe in on two inches of bump. you shouldn't have ANY. bumpsteer can be fixed by spacing the outer steering rod end down. it isn't highly complex once you understand it.

to measure it you remove the spring/shock, disconnect the swaybar. put the car in the air. move the hub to ride height. either use a plubline and paper on the floor or get a bumpsteer plate and move the suspension up one inch and measure the toe, move it another inch and measure. you want the toe unchanged.

if you can't solve the rack problem in a few days i will call my good friend and former GT3 competitor Cam for you.

hc

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

thanks howard! im waiting on him to call back, although i have a feeling that those arms are supposed to be notched (like stock). id think one would want the rack to sit as close to those mounts as possible to clear the motor.