Hi,

I am currently saving up for a "THE" conversion and there is a few things I am concern with. I did search the forum as much as I can but still not exactly sure which route to take. My main concern is bumpsteer. Does the Pettit subframe/spindle completely eliminate bumpsteer or is it still noticeable? If using the stock subframe, I understand that I need to have a custom oil pan, using the 13B rear plate, shorten the LIM to clear the hood...anything else? Can a custom oil pan be ordered or does it have to be an on site customization?

Another issue is heat. Right now, my FD is modded with an Apex front mount with a Koyo radiator. Will a Koyo be sufficient or is it just a matter directing the flow? I am sure there are a bunch of little detail that I am missing, so fill me in! I am just contemplating on going single with less headaches or go all out on a 20B.
Any suggestion is appreciated.

 

I'm in the process of doing 20B.. And you do have several choices in which direction you would like to take.. But any direction you decide to do, its not going to be cheap and a lot of work will be involved.

I'm completely rebuilding the engine and even getting my engine ported (it already has pretty big ports). I'm also going to add dry sump to completely avoid the oil pan issue and getting subframe made. I'm expecting to take about a year and up to about 20k in cost. If you are going to do it, do it right first time. Also, you would most likely want to go with fairly large single.. so, I would suggest go with single first than save up and go 20B.

I just got my ported 13b and I'm putting my t76BB in and then when my 20b's ready, I'm putting that same turbo in.

I even picked up another 20B engine manifold and also another manifold just in case I f*ck up..

 

oh.. also 20bs are harder to come by.. so, if you are serious, go ahead and get one..

i have an D series and an number series.

 

Ahhh...finally some suggestions. Thank you for some input, herblenny. Yes, I realize how much it could end up costing (as much or more than the FD itself.) I live in a small town, so custom work is hard to come by. I really like the idea of using the stock subframe, but I am afraid of running into too many obstacle like custom oil pan, shorten the intake, and I am sure there is more to it. Modified/custom subframe, I think, is more straight forward but only if it completely eliminate the bumpsteer issue.

I have saved enough for the motor and subframe right now. It might take me several more months to save for a stand alone and other odds and ends.I will have the motor overhauled and ported but not sure if I want to go single off the bat. Plus, I wouldn't know where to begin having a custom manifold made for it.

For anyone out there that knows a good deal on a 20B, please PM me!

Again, thanks for the reply.

 

Yes, I have access to several 3 Rotor engines, all at $3500.oo + freight.
I have 1 at my shop, and have 2 on the way, will receive in 2 weeks.
I supply a paper compression read out, and I don't accept them, if there is a glitch in the compression. all come out of front clips.
Cansend a pic. of the one I have in house now.

GT1-20b

 

As to the Bumpsteer issue, any time any one alters the position of the rac, that changes the geometry that the Japs. designed, You will not only get bumpsteer, but You WILL loose ALL the AKERMAN built in to the steering.
The car will understeer (push) when turning more than 20* in either direction, specially at cruzing speeds and higher.

GT1-20b

 

does anyone have any pics of 20b's with dry sumps?

 

I'm planning on using Dry sump to avoid custom oil pan and also to stay with stock subframe.

GT1-20B's been wonderful with help. He definitely knows his stuff.. Thanks for all your info GT1-20B.
Dry Sump could also cost as mush as the engine itself. In my case, I need to build the engine from start so, its better method to go with.

 

Yes,
go to : http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/GT1-20b/

GT1-20b

 

Some pix of mine:

 

wow, so just to make sure I am understanding things right, you can use a dry sump setup and retain the factory mounting position?

 

Very nice

 

I can't see the pics?? Maybe its my computer

 

Yes.
You can actually use a flat piece of sheet metal to replace the oil pan also. I opted for a 3/4" aluminum plate to help keep the motor from wanting to twist.

 

I'm guessing this must be really expensive? Heck, if you're spending all that money for a conversion anyway, I would think this would be the way to go.

 

Its about 3-4K for the dry sump kit, complete.. as much as used20B.. but you save a little by not buying the subframe, which is about 1200-1500. So, its about 2500 extra. Also, I think its more beneficial and expecially if you are getting the 20B rebuilt. since my engine is already torn apart, going this method is worth it.

 

That's a really good idea. What else have you done to prevent twisting?

 

The holes for the oil pan bolts were enlarged and retapped to accomodate larger diameter bolts. The combo should be at least, if not better than dowelling the engine.
The 787b engine did the same thing basically but included a second plate on top of the engine iirc.

 

Don't forget the sump tank, all the extra ss line and fittings and i my case, dual remote oil filters and coolers to further complicate things (i.e. increase the cost).

 

that's a super sweet setup!

has anyone tried doing something like that with the stock oil pump? maybe just sending hoses up to a tank? i'm a noob with the dry sump stuff--sorry if the question is dumb.

 

What about adapting a dry-sump system from a porsche or other factory cars with these systems? I have access to this and I think it would be much cheaper.

 

yea, cheap bastards like me wanna be cool too

 

this is all great stuff to help with a future pipe dream ...

i would imagine another advantage to this route is the possibility of equalizing some weight distribution and improving on oil scavenging during corners, right? am i way off?

 

Sure you could. At least the externall pumps etc. which it no doubt has. The oil system in the rotary would still have to be extensivelly modified to accomadate any dry sump system. I am not to familiar with the details of this process as I had mine built.
What makes the rotary drysump setup so nice is that the pump is in the front cover assembly so there is no need for extra pulleys, brackets and pumps. This also allows more room in the engine bay.

Yes, that is the main purpose of dry sump systems to prevent oil starvation under cornering, braking and acceleration. Another benefit is the increased oil capacity to just about whatever amount you want which in turn aids in cooiling. Not to mention the 110+ psi of oil pressure
I have seen some sump tanks in the passenger side of the cockpit to aid weight distribution. Not exaclty where I would want a bunch of hot oil though.

 

Wouldn't be worth it imho.