How many 20B owner stud their motor?
05-01-10, 10:49 AM
#26
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I second that emotion 
Please, rethink a few things. Firstly, I'm going to go so far as to say "You can't build a big HP 20B on a budget". I mean no offense, and sincerely have your engines best interests at heart. Go the Synapse for sure. Go the Guru stud kit (for 800rwhp - god you'll need it - seriously!). Balance and gap your rotors. Work the oil channels. Get a second 044 - ONE IS NOT ENOUGH FOR YOUR HP. Hell, for 800rwhp I'd consider 3. Remember they are rated at 500+/- HP each. Take 15% off for safe keeping, and you can see one will never be enough - two is a grey area. How big is your intercooler? What have you done re oil cooler? Need a big one for sure. Radiator needs to be the biggest cross flow you can fit in the car. Is the clutch a double or triple plate? Double is good for 800rwhp, Triple is better. If a drag car, triple is the go. You will destroy a double with too few big dumps. T4 turbo? I thought a T4 was good for up to around 650-700HP? Have you looked into your turbo's efficiency range? A turbo that is used beyond its efficiency range will become restrictive at high boost and flow levels. In a word it will be inefficient and will not give you what you want. Please look into this and cast an eye over the gt88 from Garrett - or I have heard great things about the 80 also. Can't remember who makes the gt47 - don't think it's Garrett. Also have a look at billetturbochargers.com. They are not local to you, but do make great turbo chargers - just remember to use a pressure / flow restrictor on the line into the oil cooling section - otherwise oil water contamination is possible on high oil psi as you exceed the tolerances of the coolant channels within the turbo - a 50psi limiter is recommended. A 20B turbo with manifold is massively cheap at $1400. My 20B turbo alone was over 3K - and my HP goals are less than yours. Does the manifold match your increased exhaust port size? Have they been opened up? If not your goal is virtually out of reach before you even start. Has your intake been flow balanced? The greater the HP, the more this is needed - and you are after a lot of HP. How hard are you planning to rev this engine? 20B's can take a lot of revs IF the oil is there all the time, and you plan to rebuild fairly often. If not, limit to 8 or 8.5. You'll still make big big power, but it's life will be extended greatly.
These are just the things I can think of off the top of my head. Please understand, I WANT you to succeed in your goal. But I want your engine to last long enough for you to enjoy it.
Have a flick through my thread (the link is above), and look at what I've done and why. There's a lot of useful info in there (compilation of lots of professional input - as well as massive support and info from this site.)
In any regard, I wish you all the best for your build!
Please, rethink a few things. Firstly, I'm going to go so far as to say "You can't build a big HP 20B on a budget". I mean no offense, and sincerely have your engines best interests at heart. Go the Synapse for sure. Go the Guru stud kit (for 800rwhp - god you'll need it - seriously!). Balance and gap your rotors. Work the oil channels. Get a second 044 - ONE IS NOT ENOUGH FOR YOUR HP. Hell, for 800rwhp I'd consider 3. Remember they are rated at 500+/- HP each. Take 15% off for safe keeping, and you can see one will never be enough - two is a grey area. How big is your intercooler? What have you done re oil cooler? Need a big one for sure. Radiator needs to be the biggest cross flow you can fit in the car. Is the clutch a double or triple plate? Double is good for 800rwhp, Triple is better. If a drag car, triple is the go. You will destroy a double with too few big dumps. T4 turbo? I thought a T4 was good for up to around 650-700HP? Have you looked into your turbo's efficiency range? A turbo that is used beyond its efficiency range will become restrictive at high boost and flow levels. In a word it will be inefficient and will not give you what you want. Please look into this and cast an eye over the gt88 from Garrett - or I have heard great things about the 80 also. Can't remember who makes the gt47 - don't think it's Garrett. Also have a look at billetturbochargers.com. They are not local to you, but do make great turbo chargers - just remember to use a pressure / flow restrictor on the line into the oil cooling section - otherwise oil water contamination is possible on high oil psi as you exceed the tolerances of the coolant channels within the turbo - a 50psi limiter is recommended. A 20B turbo with manifold is massively cheap at $1400. My 20B turbo alone was over 3K - and my HP goals are less than yours. Does the manifold match your increased exhaust port size? Have they been opened up? If not your goal is virtually out of reach before you even start. Has your intake been flow balanced? The greater the HP, the more this is needed - and you are after a lot of HP. How hard are you planning to rev this engine? 20B's can take a lot of revs IF the oil is there all the time, and you plan to rebuild fairly often. If not, limit to 8 or 8.5. You'll still make big big power, but it's life will be extended greatly.
These are just the things I can think of off the top of my head. Please understand, I WANT you to succeed in your goal. But I want your engine to last long enough for you to enjoy it.
Have a flick through my thread (the link is above), and look at what I've done and why. There's a lot of useful info in there (compilation of lots of professional input - as well as massive support and info from this site.)
In any regard, I wish you all the best for your build!
I got the motor together last night it toke 2 1/2 hour not bad for the first timer
Well I'm going to try to reach my hp goal but if I don't succeed it doesn't matter much. All I want is to experience what a 20B is. I think my budget rebuilt can hold some abuse but if it blows I know the seal warped not have to junk the motor with other seals. I know the e-shaft will flex under higher rpm so let see how hard I can push it.
05-01-10, 10:56 AM
#27
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I need to get the car running first than break it in before any boost. Once it's broken in I might be tempted to do some low boosting I never use an ebay wastegate but does it sounds cool to have a 4" ebay intercooler to go with the ebay wastegate?
05-01-10, 12:56 PM
#28
If you are kidding then yes. I you don't want to blow the motor then no, get rid of at least the ebay wastegate. I wouldn't use an ebay intercooler either but at the eBay wastegate will not function properly for long if at all and it will blow your engine due to boost creep.
05-01-10, 01:10 PM
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If you are kidding then yes. I you don't want to blow the motor then no, get rid of at least the ebay wastegate. I wouldn't use an ebay intercooler either but at the eBay wastegate will not function properly for long if at all and it will blow your engine due to boost creep.
I understand how bad is the ebay wastegate is but I got to put it in to get the car running. It doesn't take long to rebuilt the motor it's like a 13B but with 1 extra housing and iron. I'm looking forward to rebuilt more 20B I want to find different ways of improve it like I did on the 13B that I built. Please give me but I'm going to try this setup first and if something bad happen I surely will let everybody know. My friend ran a high 8's in his ebay wastegate, that's why I'm tempted to try one.
I will get some pictures if I can find the camera, my daughter keep losing it when she use it.
05-06-10, 01:42 AM
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Sorry David I'm not trying to make you mad I just need to get my car running asap. The manifold I have has a square 4 bolt flange that the ebay wastegate fit perfectly. I will change to a better wastegate once I break in the motor and do some dyno runs.
05-06-10, 05:47 AM
#35
Remember I speak with experience on this as I just saw at Kilo Racing how an eBay wastegate can work/not work. You may get lucky and be fine but what happens if that baby lets loose during the dyno and pops your engine?
05-06-10, 05:13 PM
#37
1000 years, lost in time.
I can't believe what I'm reading.
Completely agree with David's comments and concerns.
You are not only leaving yourself open for trouble with your build, but actively seeking it out.
I'm unsubscribing from this thread. Too much insanity.
Completely agree with David's comments and concerns.
You are not only leaving yourself open for trouble with your build, but actively seeking it out.
I'm unsubscribing from this thread. Too much insanity.
05-06-10, 06:12 PM
#39
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You are not making me mad. I would never do any dyno runs with an eBay wastegate but that is your call and I hope it works out for you. There are some things that eBay is good for but I wouldn't risk my car on it with such a critical part and that is what you are doing with that wastegate.
Remember I speak with experience on this as I just saw at Kilo Racing how an eBay wastegate can work/not work. You may get lucky and be fine but what happens if that baby lets loose during the dyno and pops your engine?
Remember I speak with experience on this as I just saw at Kilo Racing how an eBay wastegate can work/not work. You may get lucky and be fine but what happens if that baby lets loose during the dyno and pops your engine?
It toke me 2 1/2 hrs to put the motor together and it's my first time so if I pop my motor( which I know be pretty hard to do) I just open it up and rebuild it like a 13B
Serious David thanks for your concern I will take my time and if I get the car dyno I'll be sure to get video. Sorry can't update on the project cause the clutch hasn't came yet 
Going to custom fit the fuel rail this Saturday and fuel system if it arrive.
05-10-10, 09:09 PM
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Clutch hasn't yet show up yet it been 3 week since I order it? Sending the turbo manifold, turbine housing and the whole intake manifold to get ceramic coated.
05-13-10, 07:24 PM
#43
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Ok things got worst the microtech lt16 has not arrived and the clutch is no where to be found 
I got the tracking # on May 03 and the package hasn't move one inch since than. I contacted the seller he told me that he's going to ship it Monday how could you get a tracking # when the stuff have not been shipped yet?
I got the tracking # on May 03 and the package hasn't move one inch since than. I contacted the seller he told me that he's going to ship it Monday how could you get a tracking # when the stuff have not been shipped yet?
05-13-10, 07:28 PM
#44
*** Bless The USA
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Ok things got worst the microtech lt16 has not arrived and the clutch is no where to be found I got the tracking # on May 03 and the package hasn't move one inch since than. I contacted the seller he told me that he's going to ship it Monday how could you get a tracking # when the stuff have not been shipped yet?
I got the tracking # on May 03 and the package hasn't move one inch since than. I contacted the seller he told me that he's going to ship it Monday how could you get a tracking # when the stuff have not been shipped yet?
05-13-10, 08:10 PM
#45
Good luck with the build, going to be doing this as well with a 90 gtu roller i have. Yes Ebay wastegates suck but hell PFS put one on my car(why i dunno when i paid alot for a turbo kit) and i have 8k on it(FD) pushing 475rwhp and no issues. But i am replacing it with a precision right now because i dont trust it.
05-20-10, 01:07 PM
#48
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This is my first 20B built I want to try the stock replacement stud to see how it holds up. Maybe my next 20B project I'll do the oversize stud. Man I been waiting for over 2month on the microtech and clutch. My 1 month project turns out to be over 2 month of waiting on parts
