How to f_ck up a $9,000 Mandeville 20b short block without even starting it
11-10-06, 04:33 PM
#53
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Originally Posted by Black91n/a
It's called an iron, it's made of iron, iron is very difficult if not impossible to weld properly. To do it right you'd have to remove it anyway, just get a new one.
all it has to hold is coolant... weld that ******!
11-14-06, 12:28 AM
#54
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^ 
all it has to do is hold water. and what happens if the crack gets bigger and spreads through the rear plate and ***** the engine while hes skating it sideways at 100mph?
Dont just weld it or try and fix it bodgey, just buy a fricken new or get a 2nd hand end plate and put it on, do it once do it right.
all it has to do is hold water. and what happens if the crack gets bigger and spreads through the rear plate and ***** the engine while hes skating it sideways at 100mph?Dont just weld it or try and fix it bodgey, just buy a fricken new or get a 2nd hand end plate and put it on, do it once do it right.
11-14-06, 12:46 AM
#55
That's an easy fix for a competent welder. I've even had cracked off water jacket walls fixed by welding in a bead and having it machined down. Waste of time and money to remove that rear plate and that can even be done in car. Whatever, everyone has there own idea's and experience's. But from my experience I can tell you that it can be fixed without consequence.
11-14-06, 05:45 AM
#56
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Originally Posted by Nirvana-rx3
^ all it has to do is hold water. and what happens if the crack gets bigger and spreads through the rear plate and ***** the engine while hes skating it sideways at 100mph?
Dont just weld it or try and fix it bodgey, just buy a fricken new or get a 2nd hand end plate and put it on, do it once do it right.
all it has to do is hold water. and what happens if the crack gets bigger and spreads through the rear plate and ***** the engine while hes skating it sideways at 100mph?Dont just weld it or try and fix it bodgey, just buy a fricken new or get a 2nd hand end plate and put it on, do it once do it right.
welding it is much more reliable than getting a used part. just because you don't know how to weld doesn't mean the nobody else does.
11-18-06, 05:27 PM
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My vote is for welding it too, as it is worth a shot IMO. Just remember to drill a small hole at the end of the crack so it does not continue farther in to the iron. Everyone giving you welding advice all seem to be fairly competant in here.
11-18-06, 05:39 PM
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sorry I am blind ia hve bin to his shop quite a few times and wouldnt mind having one of the 13G motors that he has siting around also wouldnt minda the 4 rotor shafts that he gets accasionally you just minor things.
11-19-06, 11:56 PM
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i agree w/ most of the welding comments. To add to that though, say you switch coolant to Evans NPG +, you can run your coolant system at ZERO pressure, with better results. so why not weld it IN the car, modify your pressure cap for zero pressure, run the evans (which does work better btw) and now you have VERY
11-20-06, 09:40 AM
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I replaced it with a new housing and had it ported and installed on the motor by Mandeville. It cost about $620 all said and done. I know I could have gone another route, but I didn't want to take a chance because I have so much other stuff to focus on.
If anyone wants to buy the housing let me know. It is in good shape and has a very nice street port by Mandeville.
If anyone wants to buy the housing let me know. It is in good shape and has a very nice street port by Mandeville.
11-20-06, 11:45 AM
#65
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Sorry to hear that happened. I think we all do it once. I've split stuff trying to drill it out. It's just really iffy when your working with material that thin.
11-26-06, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by rarson
Braze weld... Isn't that an oxymoron?
muahaha lol lol lol
rarson 
Dont forget to grind out the crack before welding it and drill a small hole at the END of the crack (you know were the crack stops) The hole is to keep it from cracking even more after the welding, motor vibration and what not.
Step 1: grind out the crack about half way down and the FULL length of the crack.
Step 2: Drill a tiny hole about 1.5 times the size of the crack. At the END of the crack were it stops. ( in your case i would use a 1/16 drill bit, or at MOST a 3/32.)
Step 3: Preheat the area to be welded to about 750 deg. (reason is, is that cast iron is very porus<---spelling? and has alot of moisture in it, you need to get that moisture out or your going to pinhole your welded joint. And also to prep the area for weld.)
Step 3: Oxy/acl weld with 3/32 non flux filler rod. Start from the beginning of the crack and ending at the Hole that you drilled. Please remember to FILL up the hole that you drilled with weld.
11-26-06, 10:17 AM
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opps sorry forgot. you also need to slight peen it and post heat it at 400 deg, but not exceeding 750 for 30 min the let it air cool or catbox cool.
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