How to f_ck up a $9,000 Mandeville 20b short block without even starting it
11-05-06, 06:47 PM
#27
I will let it go for my cost.
I paid: 39,600 yen + shipping 24,800 yen for the shipping from Japan.
Thats 64,000 Yen= $545.79
plus whatever the actual shipping from Los Angeles to Charlotte
I wont have it until around the 20th of this month
I paid: 39,600 yen + shipping 24,800 yen for the shipping from Japan.
Thats 64,000 Yen= $545.79
plus whatever the actual shipping from Los Angeles to Charlotte
I wont have it until around the 20th of this month
11-05-06, 06:52 PM
#28
Originally Posted by Japan2LA
I will let it go for my cost.
I paid: 39,600 yen + shipping 24,800 yen for the shipping from Japan.
Thats 64,000 Yen= $545.79
plus whatever the actual shipping from Los Angeles to Charlotte
I wont have it until around the 20th of this month
I paid: 39,600 yen + shipping 24,800 yen for the shipping from Japan.
Thats 64,000 Yen= $545.79
plus whatever the actual shipping from Los Angeles to Charlotte
I wont have it until around the 20th of this month
I guess I could break it down and sell him the complete set of used cosemo Re Irons ( which would be good for spare parts for his 20B) for about $500.00 plus shipping..
11-05-06, 08:08 PM
#31
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Good luck! I've had my share of F up's... I say, you'r already in this deep, buy the rear cast iron and have the shop notch enough area in the firewall to receive the stock coolant fitting and hose.
11-05-06, 08:29 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by wankel_7
Good luck! I've had my share of F up's... I say, you'r already in this deep, buy the rear cast iron and have the shop notch enough area in the firewall to receive the stock coolant fitting and hose.
The Cosmo 13B RE option is interesting, but I don't know too much about that motor. Did they make changes to the design over time as they did with the 20b (adding extra material to stiffen it up)? Does anyone have pictures of it?
11-05-06, 09:31 PM
#33
Passing life by
^ I know what you mean by the plies but ive done full RHD conversions and swapping and cutting portions out in a firewall several times. I’ve done full RHD in less then 4 days of work. I do not se how it took them so long.
11-05-06, 10:38 PM
#34
Originally Posted by Japan2LA
Here is what you need.....
This is NEW cosmo RE
It will work on your 20B
Its coming to me from Japan and I will have it in my hands in about 10 to 12 days.
Only difference is one tension whole needs to be drilled large to accept the larger 20 tension bolt. I can drill it for free at the machine shop...
Problem solved
This is NEW cosmo RE
It will work on your 20B
Its coming to me from Japan and I will have it in my hands in about 10 to 12 days.
Only difference is one tension whole needs to be drilled large to accept the larger 20 tension bolt. I can drill it for free at the machine shop...
Problem solved
11-05-06, 11:08 PM
#35
Originally Posted by GtoRx7
Almost, it has a baby dowel size when compared to the 20B C series and later, such as his.
Secondly, I just pulled out my parts # list for the JC3SE Cosmo RE and 20B JCESE.
I just confirmed my thoughts
All 20B motor generation built from 02/1990- 02/1994 Use
The above part # NF01-10-C50D
I just checked the part number for the rear iron on the cosmo Re...
Same part # NF01-10-C50D
So according to my parts# list from Japan, the cosmo re and 20B rear iron are the same..NO difference
This is true about the intermeadiate iron also.. 20B and Cosmo RE share the same part # NF01-10-D00C
No when talking about the front iron, there is a difference on my part # list from Japan
Front: Cosmo Re part # N390-10-C00B
Front: 20B part # NF01-10-C00E
So, according to my parts # list, the rear irons are the same.. I will compare them once i get the new one in from Japan. I have a New one on myshelf now and will look them both over very closely for differences..
Last edited by Japan2LA; 11-05-06 at 11:10 PM.
11-06-06, 07:20 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by Japan2LA
All 20B motor generation built from 02/1990- 02/1994 Use
The above part # NF01-10-C50D
The above part # NF01-10-C50D
11-06-06, 07:52 AM
#37
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Yeah Japan2LA I appreciate the offer. If an FD housing can be ported out as far as the 20b that will be the cheapest and easiest solution. I spoke to Mandeville this morning. He had a good laugh. He is going to take a closer look at the FD iron and see if he can port it out as far.
11-06-06, 07:59 AM
#38
Originally Posted by CMonakar
Yeah Japan2LA I appreciate the offer. If an FD housing can be ported out as far as the 20b that will be the cheapest and easiest solution. I spoke to Mandeville this morning. He had a good laugh. He is going to take a closer look at the FD iron and see if he can port it out as far.
Ok LMK if you need it.. Also, if you use the FD rear Iron, you will then need a custom oil pan right??? The Stock 20B oil pan may not bolt up if you used the FD rear iron...
11-06-06, 09:40 AM
#41
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what if you cut out the section with the crack and round it off where the crack ends and modify the old tube into a 90 then add some j-b weld on the tube and put it back in.
11-06-06, 11:18 AM
#42
ok, here is the real answer as far as welding:
you CAN weld cast iron. with a arc welder, you buy a special rod with a high nickel content, and also preheat the area to be welded. the rods are expensive and hard to find, but it does work.
you can also weld it with a MIG welder using stainless steel wire. the higher nickel content the better, i have used 316 wire on cast iron with excellent results.
you can also braze it, which is the most common fix for cast iron for those who are not welders....most anyone who has a torch outfit can brase it for you.
any of these solutions should work just fine, after all all you need to do is seal out 16psi water. personally, i would do the welding with the fitting installed. it may damage the fitting, especially if you get it too hot, but it will ensure that you end up with a good fit and no major stresses on the iron from the tapered fit.
you CAN weld cast iron. with a arc welder, you buy a special rod with a high nickel content, and also preheat the area to be welded. the rods are expensive and hard to find, but it does work.
you can also weld it with a MIG welder using stainless steel wire. the higher nickel content the better, i have used 316 wire on cast iron with excellent results.
you can also braze it, which is the most common fix for cast iron for those who are not welders....most anyone who has a torch outfit can brase it for you.
any of these solutions should work just fine, after all all you need to do is seal out 16psi water. personally, i would do the welding with the fitting installed. it may damage the fitting, especially if you get it too hot, but it will ensure that you end up with a good fit and no major stresses on the iron from the tapered fit.
11-06-06, 06:08 PM
#45
Sorry to see your misfortune.
A lot of people make that mistake first time out including myself. Next time use AN thread as it's not a tapered design like pipe thread is plus you don't have to drill the block either as the hole is the right size for an AN plug.
If you don't plan on using the heater outlet then use some sought of expoxy.
You can weld the housing but if the motor is still together you risk the chance of damaging the water seal.
BTW. ALL the later RE housings have the bigger casting around the dowel area. Also the last time I bought one which was some time last year the price from Mazdaspeed was in the high $300 dollar range.
A lot of people make that mistake first time out including myself. Next time use AN thread as it's not a tapered design like pipe thread is plus you don't have to drill the block either as the hole is the right size for an AN plug.
If you don't plan on using the heater outlet then use some sought of expoxy.
You can weld the housing but if the motor is still together you risk the chance of damaging the water seal.
BTW. ALL the later RE housings have the bigger casting around the dowel area. Also the last time I bought one which was some time last year the price from Mazdaspeed was in the high $300 dollar range.
11-07-06, 08:23 AM
#47
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cracked iron
Hello my name is warren and i am a professional welder i do welding for arco chevron shell all those big oil giants and yes it can be welded without having any problems just make sure and use the proper welding procedure and u should be good also it would be a good idea to insert the fitting before welding use some thread sealant and u good. i would also advise u to have it tig welded that's the best and cleanest welding ok bye...
11-07-06, 12:53 PM
#48
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Thanks Warren. However, I decided to buy a new housing: brand new D-series rear housing in stock at Mazdacomp for $276! It is on its way to Mandeville . If anyone is interested in buying my cracked housing let me know. It has a large street port done by Mandeville.
. If anyone is interested in buying my cracked housing let me know. It has a large street port done by Mandeville.
11-10-06, 01:33 PM
#50
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Originally Posted by CMonakar
Step 1: Hire a highly recommended chassis shop in PA to modify the firewall, tunnel, move the motor back 6.5", and discover through first hand experience that they are a bunch of overpriced hacks.
Any suggestions are appreciated. Two people have told me to weld it shut, but another said it will warp the housing. The only other option I see is replacing the rear iron.
Any suggestions are appreciated. Two people have told me to weld it shut, but another said it will warp the housing. The only other option I see is replacing the rear iron.
Their tele is : 724 942 1900, or 800 755 3925.
Good luck.