FC vs FD

Old Jun 29, 2003 | 03:55 PM
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Question FC vs FD

which rx7 would be the most easiest to put a 20b engine in? i know that putting in a 20b into either car is very hard and very expensive but i would like to kno just incase one day i want a 20b rx7.
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Old Jun 29, 2003 | 05:58 PM
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fc would probably be easier/cheaper since there are a few people who make mounts for them now. Of course fd's have a few people who produce new subframes but they are more expensive and I don't know if any of them have or have not cured the bumpsteer problem associated with relocating the rack.
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Old Jun 29, 2003 | 07:04 PM
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FC is easier in my opinion. But then again, I've never done one. It's just from info I've read here and there. Personally, I'd rather do an FC.
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Old Jun 29, 2003 | 07:12 PM
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The FC is easier/cheaper because two vendors offer engine mounts for under $500. You will not get a quality FD subframe for this price. Also, you can get a decent TII with a blown engine for $1,000 or less. Good luck finding an FD in similar condition for this price.
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 04:32 PM
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thanks for replies i guess if i ever decide to do a 3 rotor ill get an fc
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Old Jul 2, 2003 | 05:14 AM
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Originally posted by RX-Heven
fc would probably be easier/cheaper since there are a few people who make mounts for them now. Of course fd's have a few people who produce new subframes but they are more expensive and I don't know if any of them have or have not cured the bumpsteer problem associated with relocating the rack.

The bumpsteer problem is solved by modified splindles from pettit .

But Doing a 20B in a FC is cheaper

Last edited by SomeGuy_sg; Jul 2, 2003 at 05:16 AM.
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Old Jul 2, 2003 | 08:39 AM
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A friend of mine put a 20b in an FC for under $12,000. That is including the T76 turbo, TEC1 computer, and the CAR!!!!
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Old Jul 2, 2003 | 02:09 PM
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wow thats is almost the same as how much an fd costs!

i kno i should search but how much would a 20b cost?
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Old Jul 2, 2003 | 03:38 PM
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Usually $2500-$3700 or so.
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Old Jul 3, 2003 | 12:27 AM
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Originally posted by f_3s
wow thats is almost the same as how much an fd costs!

i kno i should search but how much would a 20b cost?
Prices for the cars, engines, and especially the labor are less expensive in or near Japan and Australia.
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Old Jul 23, 2003 | 04:38 PM
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Originally posted by IGY
A friend of mine put a 20b in an FC for under $12,000. That is including the T76 turbo, TEC1 computer, and the CAR!!!!

what else did he do? did he rebuild the motor? or use it as it came? i'm asking because i am planning on eventually putting a 3 rotor in my fc, and i know its expensive, and i'm going all out on it. i know i'm crazy, but so are ya'll, so we are one in the same
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Old Jul 23, 2003 | 09:42 PM
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"going all out on it"...

I hope you have an excellent paying job...

what most people fail to factor into the cost of the conversion is everything but the motor/FMIC/ECU/turbo. Like the installation cost, fabrication, all the other parts to make the car look/handle the new power like wheels, brakes, transmission, radiator, sway bar, etc, etc...

Please don't take this the wrong way...but...if you can trust someone overseas from Aus or New Zealand, then have one of them build the motor with all the goodies on it and ship it over here after it's all done and ready to drop in. You'll most likely spend substantially less all told and will only have to deal with bolt-on parts like the rad, FMIC, wheels, etc, vs. having to fabricate parts which consumes a bunch of time/money to do since there is not a high demand and thus, very few businesses who actually sell parts for it.

Just trying to help as that was my attitude as well about 2 years ago and now... X dollars into the project, I shouldn't have been so cavalier with that assumption. It WILL cost much more than you think. Glad I already had my TII to start with at least
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Old Jul 23, 2003 | 11:32 PM
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yea, i completely understand that this project is by no means a cheap upgrade. i'm well aware that it could easily cost $20k+ for going all out. thats why its not going to be done within the next 2 years. i'm still in college, so i'm saving up some money now, and i'm like 95% guaranteed a job when i graduate from college (going for my masters in architecture), so i will be making fairly nice money when i get out of college.

i've made a long list of what i want for my car to be 100% perfect to me, but some of that stuff will have to wait, like paint and body and other cosmetic things. I'm planning on a new tranny, and rear end and brakes, wheels and tires, driveshaft, turbo, fuel rails.........the list goes on and on. I want it done the right way, so i'm doing everything at once and going to make it "perfect" but i realize there will be problems. but it will be worth it in the end.

i might be able to trust someone overseas, but i've been going to don of marvel speed for over 2 years now, and i highly trust his work and experience. this man can do some amazing things. so i think i'll just have him as my main man and fork over the money to a good man that i know and already trust.

thank you much for your insight though. Its always welcome.

also, i'm 20 and have owned RX-7's since i was 16. i've gone from an 87 sport coupe, to my 88 t2 that the 3rotor is going into, and now i own an 87 gxl with 80k miles on the odometer..........should last a long while when taken care of. i just need to be patient enough during the project.

again, thanks for the insight.

erik
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Old Jul 24, 2003 | 09:07 PM
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It'll cost a bunch more than $20K+ by the time your done with the body, paint, fiberglass (if you do a widebody which is my plan to fit as big of wheels in the rear as I can for traction), all the transmission components, the interior, etc, etc. At least for a full pro installation.

My best advice is do everything to the car that you can before removing the motor and doing the transplant. This would include the exhaust, wheels, bodykit (or just the bumper to fit in a large FMIC), interior work (mounting of gauges, dash work, mounting and prepping all the wiring on the ecu), polishing/painting of the motor and the IC piping/compressor housing of the turbo, exhaust manifold, wastegate, struts/coil-overs and camber adjustment, relocate the battery, etc.

That way you won't get upset when there are delays waiting for parts (there will be), you can budget as you go and buy piece by piece, as well as still being able to drive your car in the meantime so it's not frustrating to have a hunk of metal taking up space in the garage that you drink beer and sit in a make "vroom vroom" noises on the weekends because it won't move. Sorry, venting

If you trust Don, then I agree that it's better to stick with someone that is local, you trust, and has a good reputation. The guy building my car for me (when I can afford it) has a good history of building exotics of many different things and I've become friends with him as well. During the build process, we bounce ideas off each other all time and I get work on the car with them to make sure it's exactly what I want.
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Old Jul 28, 2003 | 02:01 PM
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that for the most part is what i am doing. unfortunately my motor in the car is already no good. hence why i decided to go this route. i plan on slowly buying what i am going to need. i already have the exhaust(minus the dp). and all i really need for the interior are the necessary guages. i'll need the wheels and brakes, and i'm stil deciding on the tranny and rest of the drivetrain. but i'm not really planning on doing any body work to the car, as i want it to be as stock looking as possible. that might change, but i'm all about the sleeper thing. so we are both on the right track to doing our cars....too bad its going to cost so damn much but it will be completely worth it in the end

erik
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