DA lowered LIM with aftermarket rails...
DA lowered LIM with aftermarket rails...
anyone have any experience with defined autoworks lowered LIM with aftermarket rails..
currently have kgparts secondary and primary rails.. concerned that the primary is too tall to clear the secondary..
will be running their setup for stock subframe use and will need the lowered LIM to clear the hood..
pics would be cool if you have em..
currently have kgparts secondary and primary rails.. concerned that the primary is too tall to clear the secondary..
will be running their setup for stock subframe use and will need the lowered LIM to clear the hood..
pics would be cool if you have em..
@ hwnd
appreciate the effort though ..
just to clarify...
looking for the distance from the port hole where the primary injector plugs in onto the iron.. to the top of the primary rail..
same angle.. using centerline for both rail and port...
appreciate the effort though ..
just to clarify...
looking for the distance from the port hole where the primary injector plugs in onto the iron.. to the top of the primary rail..
same angle.. using centerline for both rail and port...
anyone have any experience with defined autoworks lowered LIM with aftermarket rails..
currently have kgparts secondary and primary rails.. concerned that the primary is too tall to clear the secondary..
will be running their setup for stock subframe use and will need the lowered LIM to clear the hood..
pics would be cool if you have em..
currently have kgparts secondary and primary rails.. concerned that the primary is too tall to clear the secondary..
will be running their setup for stock subframe use and will need the lowered LIM to clear the hood..
pics would be cool if you have em..
Thanks
unfortunately this advice didnt pan out...
not sure what to do to get the clearance i need to put back the secondaries on.. wont fit..
not even close.. does anyone actually run this setup that can shed some light.. thanks

not sure what to do to get the clearance i need to put back the secondaries on.. wont fit..
not even close.. does anyone actually run this setup that can shed some light.. thanks

Trending Topics
another angle.. anyone have an old set of injectors|primarily rail i can borrow to measure clearance..
although ive got my doubts on that workin too..
anyone have any experience with the hinson subframe setup.. unsure if their kit completely eliminates bumpsteer..
although ive got my doubts on that workin too..
anyone have any experience with the hinson subframe setup.. unsure if their kit completely eliminates bumpsteer..
if the primary rail were shorter - would it help at all?
from the photos - it seems like if the fuel-fittings are in the way - so if you trimmed the rail (length wise) would it give you any room?
from the photos - it seems like if the fuel-fittings are in the way - so if you trimmed the rail (length wise) would it give you any room?
man, on a side note - those welds are awful. didn't even fully penetrate the runners.
on another hand, welding up this nasty cast aluminum can be a pain if not preheated, etc..
on another hand, welding up this nasty cast aluminum can be a pain if not preheated, etc..
primary rail cant be any shorter.. injector port is close to the edge of the rail as it is..
its not just fuel fittings in the way.. its the rail as well.. if you look closely.. the entire primary rail is in the path of where the secondary injectors should be..
its not just fuel fittings in the way.. its the rail as well.. if you look closely.. the entire primary rail is in the path of where the secondary injectors should be..
When we lower the intake, you have to lower the injector bungs. Its impossible not to. I dont see any rail spacers in the pic. We supply spacers for the rail, unless this is a older kit? It moved the upper rail about 1/2" up to make fabrication easier. This might help clearance as well?
Why not use the factory primary rail, and weld on -8an fittings? All the 20b's we do here use factory primary rails with 850cc FD injectors or the 550cc injectors. Easiest solution, easier than changing kits and dealing with bumpsteer.
And to Hwnd, the welds never turn out flawless. The penetration is good, trust me. Manifolds are pre-heated, cast on these things are very hard to make look pretty. And we have a bunch of areas to cut and weld and cut and weld to reposition it all.
Why not use the factory primary rail, and weld on -8an fittings? All the 20b's we do here use factory primary rails with 850cc FD injectors or the 550cc injectors. Easiest solution, easier than changing kits and dealing with bumpsteer.
And to Hwnd, the welds never turn out flawless. The penetration is good, trust me. Manifolds are pre-heated, cast on these things are very hard to make look pretty. And we have a bunch of areas to cut and weld and cut and weld to reposition it all.
this lim was purchased from herblenny.. perhaps one of your earlier ones
moving the secondary rail is not going to work with spacers... the primary is completely in the way as pictured..
only way this would work is if the bungs were raised back or kept at stock location... and spacers used for the secondary rail mounting to the flange
keeping the stock bung oe location allows for a 1.875" section clearing as pic'd...
is this height clearance not enough for this kit...
borrowing phils pic of this lim installed... it appears that perhaps there might be some wiggle room.. elbow would probably need to change though...

moving the secondary rail is not going to work with spacers... the primary is completely in the way as pictured..
only way this would work is if the bungs were raised back or kept at stock location... and spacers used for the secondary rail mounting to the flange
keeping the stock bung oe location allows for a 1.875" section clearing as pic'd...
is this height clearance not enough for this kit...
borrowing phils pic of this lim installed... it appears that perhaps there might be some wiggle room.. elbow would probably need to change though...

The paximus manifold does not have 2.5" removed from the lower intake. Trust me, its a physical impossibility to keep the factory bungs and drop the intake 2.5". The fuel rail will hit the upper intake manifold.
I still dont understand why the factory primary rail cant be used? It will work in setups of over 850rwhp.
When this kit was designed, it was made to keep the factory subframe and stock primary rail.
Which is better, a aluminum primary rail or completely changed geometry of the steering rack?
I will modify a stock rail and put -6an or -8an fittings on it for anyone to work with a aftermarket secondary rail.
I still dont understand why the factory primary rail cant be used? It will work in setups of over 850rwhp.
When this kit was designed, it was made to keep the factory subframe and stock primary rail.
Which is better, a aluminum primary rail or completely changed geometry of the steering rack?
I will modify a stock rail and put -6an or -8an fittings on it for anyone to work with a aftermarket secondary rail.
if the requirement is 2.5 inches to clear the hood with this setup then ive got no other recourse than to use this lim and oe fuel rail..
keeping the oe location would give 1.5 inches to cut off the lim.. perhaps one way around this is to change the orientation or angle of the bungs..
there are a few reasons why ive only considered the aftermarket primary.. one is cost.. already have the rail.. would need the oe rail.. have it modified.. get new injectors and clips..
second.. frankly im concerned with atomization with the relocated bungs.. the pics will reveal abrupt and shortened path to provide the best fuel mixture from...
there are also pockets that might create pooling of fuel... perhaps cause tuning issues from the bad fuel distribution.. injection path is directly to the bend on the runner wall instead of directly to the air flow path...
this car will be used mostly for the course... an occassional drag.. so the stocker subframe is my preference.. reason why you have my pan and bracket
pics below of the front and rear injector ports..
rear..

front..
keeping the oe location would give 1.5 inches to cut off the lim.. perhaps one way around this is to change the orientation or angle of the bungs..
there are a few reasons why ive only considered the aftermarket primary.. one is cost.. already have the rail.. would need the oe rail.. have it modified.. get new injectors and clips..
second.. frankly im concerned with atomization with the relocated bungs.. the pics will reveal abrupt and shortened path to provide the best fuel mixture from...
there are also pockets that might create pooling of fuel... perhaps cause tuning issues from the bad fuel distribution.. injection path is directly to the bend on the runner wall instead of directly to the air flow path...
this car will be used mostly for the course... an occassional drag.. so the stocker subframe is my preference.. reason why you have my pan and bracket

pics below of the front and rear injector ports..
rear..

front..
The fuel gets in evenly, we have had a few 20b turbo cars running around for over 4 years on this intake setup. One has 2mm ceramic seals in it, so detonation is something that cannot happen, not even once. Its running great to this day on our original tune and is a few states away. When we were doing development on the n/a 3 rotor, this same lower intake setup was used. I had three EGT's and widebands on each header tube, balance was excellent on fuel distribution. Airflow is a different story, the factory upper intake favors one rotor more.
All these hard facts let me sleep easy that you wont have any issues.
If you send me the factory rail I will modify it for free.
All these hard facts let me sleep easy that you wont have any issues.
If you send me the factory rail I will modify it for free.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
Sep 16, 2018 07:16 PM
ZaqAtaq
New Member RX-7 Technical
2
Sep 5, 2015 08:57 PM









