Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Is your bracket kit for FD alternator? I forgot to ask, I'll be using the FD front cover and FD alternator.

If you don't mind, can you post some pics of your set up?? Also, how is the workmanship? Only LIM by Acosta I've seen was Mike's and its been awhile for me.

Thanks!

PHIL

power hungry

I could have done that but Im running a electric water pump and the belt would be in the way of my hoses, but it also looks cleaner.



I can get pics but can someone tell me where the best place to host them is.
Im a NOOB when it comes to inserting attachments.

I guess Marcos did mine for 250.00 since he built the motor as well.

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

Yes it uses the Fd alternator, and a FD p.s bracket.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

When making a new post, just hit the manage attatchments button. Then browse for your pics in which ever folder you have them in on your computer. Upload them. If they are too large resize them to fit. Use the test page to experiment. It took me forever to finally figure it out.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

I got it to host here.. But host it thru the forum as forum will hold the pics forever!!

http://www.PictureTrail.com/

GTORX7,

I would like to purchase your alternator relocation kit. Can you also post a pic of it also? I think another FD owner in town would like to get one also.

Thanks!

streldoc

iTrader: (1)

Here are some pictures of my wife's car that she lets me work on and drive, thank God. The motor has been moved 3 inches back. The intake has been cut about 1" shorter. It is just high enough to clear the secondary injectors. Custom mounts were fabricated using the 20B plates. Oil filter had to be relocated as it was to close to the firewall. A custom oil pan had to be built. The steering rack had to be lowered and moved forward on the stock subframe. A small notch had to be cut in the subframed to clear the power steering. Bump steer is 0.010 inch over 2 inches of travel using bump steer correction on the steering knuckles. Tripoint swaybar had to be moved forward also. I run the Scoot hood but the stock hood will fit also. Bottom line, it can be done with the stock subframe with good results. It will also be nice to have the weight balance better with the engine moved back. It is a little more work/$ than just buying a kit, though. You get what you pay for, I guess.

streldoc

iTrader: (1)

The work of A. R. T. is from: http://www.appliedracingtechnology.com/aboutus.php

Ed Gilfus did all the custom fab work, and don't know if he would want to do it again, but he certainly could answer questions, and if you need a front running spec miata engine, Ed's you man.

Here are some more pictures of the subframe, etc.

streldoc

iTrader: (1)

A few more pictures.

20B3rdgen

iTrader: (8)

Great work, love the craftmanship. What is this plate for? I plan on doing almost the same type of install, but you are a little farther along than I am with mine. I am doing all of the fabrication work meself for my install so it takes more time, but like it that way.

streldoc

iTrader: (1)

That plate is used to mount the six coils. I will send a picture with them mounted when I get home from work.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

That is very nice of you to provide those pics. With the moved rack, did you also have to modify your spindles? I'm thinking of just dropping my rack strait down a bit.

streldoc

iTrader: (1)

Just used bump steer correction that I bought from 20B 3rd Gen.

paximus

iTrader: (1)

I’m mainly making this post as a resource for people in the future doing 20b swaps. I hope it is helpful and allows you to complete your project with one less thing figure out. Also, since pics of shortened LIM’s are hard to come by, I took a lot so you have a reference.

I am using the Pettit 20b-FD subframe, and spindles to correct the bump-steer issue. I’m using the stock FD tranny (for now). Fitment was not great with the Pettit subframe; the front section of my oil pan was hitting the steering rack in 2 locations. One on the 90° hard line fitting for the power steering, (closer to passenger side), and the second hit the bracket for the steering rack, (closer to the driver’s side). Also on this first fitment with my oil pan hitting the steering rack, I had about ¼ inch of space between the UIM and my hood, any torqueing of my motor would have caused it to hit my hood, bad news for a polished UIM.

I grabbed my Dremel and went to work on the bracket as its just stamped steel and cut off the raised edges that were not necessary, and I ground down the corners of the fitting to help gain a little bit of spacing. In theory, the steering rack should have landed in the raised groove of the oil pan, but did not. I’m not sure if anyone else had this problem, Maybe I did something wrong, but it just doesn’t seem to fit. There isn’t any front to back adjustment of the tranny/motor that I am aware of. I also made some spacers for my motor mounts (FC competition mounts from Mazdatrix ~$45) out of Nylon, the same material bushings are made from, to gain the clearance needed. I believe the spacers were ¼ inch. Since I raised the motor, my UIM was obviously going to hit the hood. Solution = cut the LIM like many others have done.

The work was done by Dennis Blackstone of Blackstone Racing. He is located in Boise Idaho, and came highly recommended, and he has done it before, which was a big plus. He mainly builds race cars from the ground up. I think he works like 15 hrs/day, and has more customers than he knows what to do with. So I guess I’m trying to say he’s a REALLY busy guy. I think he did an excellent job. When I called him to find out how much he would charge me, I was quoted $225. I originally called Acosta and they wanted to charge $400 to get it shortened. I thought that was a little high, and they were kind of far away, so I sourced out someone else that had done it in the past and was a little closer. Anyway he’s another option for those that don’t want to pay $400.

The pictures are to show how much he cut off, and where. I also sent him my secondary fuel rail so he could see how much room he had to work with, and what mounting points needed to be kept for the rail. He could have shortened it about another ½ inch if necessary, any more than that my rail would have hit the UIM.

This is my first swap, so there might have been something I could have done different, but hopefully we learn from our experiences and pass on what we learn as well. In retrospect, I should have done a sump system or a custom oil pan, while keeping the stock subframe. Both probably would have been cheaper than the subframe and LIM chop. Next time

teachermechanic

iTrader: (4)

Any pic from this kit?

94RHDFD

iTrader: (3)

Did you have any issues with my bumpsteer correction since you moved the motor back more?

black93RX7

Just realized today that my UIM wont clear my scoot hood, its an inch too high.

Since Im using an RX-7 specialties subframe, my options are:

1) Use the stock hood - not gonna happen
2) Custom intake manifold or a hogans - $$$$$
3) Cut the LIM

Would love a racing manifold but dont want to pay $3000 usd for one right now, so the only option is to cut the lim.


paximus: dp you have the contact info for BlackStone Racing?

Or anybody else have any suggestions for who can cut the LIM?

Could probably get a local welding shop to do it, but would prefer to have someione who has done it before.

black93RX7

pics show uim hitting hood

paximus

iTrader: (1)

i got your pm black93. i dont have it on me. i'll pm it to you when i find it.
Dennis did a great job, but he took forever. He's just really busy, it took him 2 1/2 months to get it back to me. I'll get it to you though.

black93RX7

Thanks, I'll see what his time frame is, Hoping to get it done in the next few weeks.

Anyone else have any other places they know have done it before?

streldoc

iTrader: (1)

Was able to get it to about 0.010" bump out for 2" of travel. You don't happen to make any longer ones?

Erik

94RHDFD

iTrader: (3)

No sorry

black93RX7

Anyone else have a suggestion for cutting the LIM, besides Acosta and Blackstone?

Would Acosta take as long time to get something like this done?

paximus

iTrader: (1)

I pm'd you Blackstone's info Erik

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Your easiest option would be to trim that center duct on the scoot hood. All that center scoop does is draw air to the brake booster and ABS unit. Trimming it may also draw fresh air over the UIM and help cool it.

black93RX7

The hood is already cut and molded to force air onto the UIM, was hoping I could cut it further to make it fit.

However, its the vent that is actually resting on the UIM and Im not willing to cut part of the hood that is visible.

Thought about using the stock hood and adding a scoop to it. Next year splurge and buy a Hogans manifold and use the scoot hood again.

There is a possibility that even if I cut the LIM the hood will still not fit along with my secondary fuel rail.