Body work
#1
Body work
I'm sure some if not all of you know this, but building an engine to support 5,6, 700 ect. HP takes a toll on the body of a car. I need to know either through suggestions and pics or recommendation from personal experience who can strengthen an FD the point that the car can withstand that kind of power. I am already stripping the car out adding a roll cage and a few other things here and there to add rigidity without adding a lot of extra weight. Does anyone else have any ideas.
And just because I thought about this last night. Aftermarket twin setup. something similar to what you'd see on a JZA80 Supra.Smaller turbos, faster boost same power . Crazy idea I know. Any thoughts.
And just because I thought about this last night. Aftermarket twin setup. something similar to what you'd see on a JZA80 Supra.Smaller turbos, faster boost same power . Crazy idea I know. Any thoughts.
#2
Rotor Head Extreme
iTrader: (8)
The stress on the drivetrain and chasses are more effected depending on how you plan on putting all that the power down. If your just spinning tires then the drivetrain/chasses doesn't get stressed much. Is the car mostly for street or drag? The fd chassis itself is very strong and can handle that level. Mazda built a very strong chassis foundation (even by todays standards). The rest of the drivetrain was slightly overbuilt based on the power levels to be reliable.
Upgrades you will need:
Differential (turbo II clutch based, Kazz or Ford rear) if drag racing the car.
New pillow ball bushings (these aren't hp specfic but bad bushings will cause a change in your rear suspension geometry).
Solid diff mounts (With IRS, diff needs to be stationary and not move)
Upgraded logitudinal arms or solid bushings in front of the stock arms (to help reduce wheel hop).
Axels (regardless if street or drag) ask IronMdnx for his experience on that one.
Transmission (your gonna strip 3rd gear so get ready for an upgrade sooner than later)
A non cracked ppf.
That's about it!
Upgrades you will need:
Differential (turbo II clutch based, Kazz or Ford rear) if drag racing the car.
New pillow ball bushings (these aren't hp specfic but bad bushings will cause a change in your rear suspension geometry).
Solid diff mounts (With IRS, diff needs to be stationary and not move)
Upgraded logitudinal arms or solid bushings in front of the stock arms (to help reduce wheel hop).
Axels (regardless if street or drag) ask IronMdnx for his experience on that one.
Transmission (your gonna strip 3rd gear so get ready for an upgrade sooner than later)
A non cracked ppf.
That's about it!
#3
T-von, i am building this as my shops demo car, but knowing the driver... me... as well as i do it's basically goingto wind up as a street driven track car. 20B massive yet responsive turbo, overbuilt fuel system.Vi-Pec V88 EMU, G-force T-5 trans with dog gearset, upgraded suspension, brakes, im looking into the driveshaft shops cobra rear end swap ( hopefully i can find a way to brace the stock diff well enough), 4in exhaust, 5-point roll cage, ect ect... ther is another post with my initial parts list. all this as i search for a car tame enough for me to drive, but wild enough that others can't .... ell maybe Stig. And can someone lease tell me if the hinson subframe lets you keep the AC. I mean I like Defined's Deluxe kit, but saving money is saving money
#4
Rotor Head Extreme
iTrader: (8)
I don't know about the hinson frame but I know the Rx7specialties frame will keep the A/C. It's designed similar to the one that Pettit racing uses. I actually owned an Rx7 Specialties version and it was well built. I ended up selling it because I wanted to move my engine back and modified my own frame.
Here's a couple pics of my Rx7 Specialties frame before I sold it.
Here's a couple pics of my Rx7 Specialties frame before I sold it.
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