I was hoping to have a little more time in gear and place the motor further up in the powerband on the upshifts by squeezing another 500-600rpm out of her to 8,000rpm limiter, but I think I'm just going to err on the safe side and keep it around 7600, shift at 7500.

I agree that boost is safer than pushing the tolerances of the block.

 

well, i definitely have a better visual in my head now on what's happening. funny though, i have thought of the 20B as a 13B with a rotor hanging off the end of it, but i never made the connection with how the bearings break down. it made total sense when you explained it in those terms.

once again, thanks.

 

Appreciate the complement! I was very green back then but seriously, it shouldn't have taken 3 pages to get an answer. I didn't need to tell those guys I was secretly planning on building my engine NA 1st to learn how to tune everything before going turbo. They were more concerned with the practicality of why I wanted to safely rev my 20b up to the 13b's rev range that they just simply couldn't tell me what the safe limit was for the engine in general. The practicality was for me to worry about and not them. I can't believe how old this thread was though. You know when I read my original question, it amazes me that it took nearly 3 pages just to get a simple answer. The others guys basically wanted my social security, my income, how long I've been at my job, ect oh wait!!!!! I felt like I was applying for a loan just to get a simple answer.


Monsterbox, the 20b in it's factory rotating assembly balance state will safely rev to 8,500rpm before it starts loosing oil pressure from the fd sized oil pump. You can thank Logan "Gto-Rx7" for that info. And no I don't need your social security number, bank statements or any other nonsense to pass that info along. lol!

 

so did you learn anything?

lol, its funny how some threads escalate to the point where they demand a resume... or you forgot the cover sheet to your TPS report (a real thing it turns out)

 

Quite a bit over the last 11 years but it's still a process though. I didn't even begin the swap till early 2007. One thing I will say is I will never cheap out on the components for my experiments. What may work well on the engine test stand is nothing compared to actually putting thousands of miles on the setup. As soon as I started putting miles on, certain components failed to work constantly. R&D most definitely isn't easy. The failed components were minor things but still effected the engines performance so to speak. My bypass exhaust system, my secondary shutter valves. The intake leaks and intermediate housing coolant leaks have been my biggest issues over the last few years. Not being able to start the car hot with coolant leaking inside the combustion chamber. Now over the last two months, I have FINALLY fixed both those coolant and intake leaks and now my engine runs consistent on a daily bases. This makes it soooo much easier to tune now. It was so aggravating to drive the car 700 miles round trip to my nearest Emission test place just to get there and have my engine idling at 1,500 because of intake leaks. I will say this, my PP mechanisms have been the most reliable/robust part of my project. Now that everything's working ok, I can finally get to tuning the PP transition and seeing if all this experimenting was worth it. Only problem is waiting for my new AEM wideband sensor to show up as my Innovate is working like crap.

Edit: My official build thread is almost typed out in full.

 

There is no reason for the condescending nature of the previous posts in this thread. Nothing is wrong with asking questions. It's appalling the behavior of some in such a rare/special community. Alot of these internet hero's would never have that attitude face to face in response to simple, reasonable, questions.

Its inspiring to see T-von's car come so far, and its been one of my motivating factors. So to Re-TED at the beginning of the thread, thanks but no thanks for the answers.

 

Thanks for the info! A prominent builder told me that with the FD oil pressure regulator you should be good for around 8.5K. The 20b oil pressure regulator apparently doesn't put out quite as much, but if Logan is pushing them to 8.5k no problem thats good to hear. I'm contemplating bumping it up to around 8K as the limiter, should be a nice 800rpm added to the powerband past the 7200RPM limit from the dyno

 

Yes that's correct with the regulator. The last time I had my engine out I installed the fd regulator and saw a nice bump in pressure. Shortly afterwards, I did an oil feed split to feed the upper front housing. Since in stock form the oil feeds from the back to front causing the oil pressure to lower at each rotor as it bleeds off. This means the oil pressure in the front rotor is never as high as the rear. I was hoping to equalize this effect by also feeding both the the front and the back. Well, the overall pressure has dropped quite a bit so I need to do more mods to increase the pressure.

 

Yea no doubt! Goodfella "The Administrator" says don't say things behind your keyboard if your not willing to do the same at a car meet or in person. Reted lived in Hawaii. Lol! Funny thing is back in 2008 he sold me the Haltech E11 my car currently runs and gave me a great deal.