20b reliability mods

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Old Jun 9, 2023 | 05:25 PM
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20b reliability mods

So trying to figure out if there's anything else I really should do to my motor before closing it up. I've tried to dig into this topic, but seems everyone has difference in opinions. My goals aren't super lofty (for a 20B at least); I'd be happy with 400hp but really want reliability. Current plans are:

- stock ports with cleaned up runners.
- Cleanup up castings for the oil pump inlet and outlet.
- Rotor tip clearancing.
- "refinished" rotor housings.
- T2 exhaust sleeves
- FD oil pressure regulator
- all OEM seals except apex seals which are i-rotary seals.
- planning on setting side seal clearance to .002-.004"

Anything else I should be looking into? I have a full machine shop, so nothing is out of the realm of possibility.
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Old Jun 9, 2023 | 09:16 PM
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oh lord...i have heard very...very bad things about i-rotary seals lately. multiple people doing a few dyno runs and the seals warp so bad they lose all compression. not sure if it is builder error or what but its more than one build for sure.

For a basic build I dont think there is more for you to do!
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Old Jun 10, 2023 | 10:12 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
if you're going to run the stock turbos you should keep the stock sleeves, its like a matched set.
i would also skip the I Rotary seals. they are good if you're trying to make a ton of power and need like a fuse in the system. if you're just after stock + power, the I rotary seals just take 3x the premix and need weird ecu tuning
obviously IMO, but i did look at all of the warped seal threads i can find
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Old Jun 10, 2023 | 05:27 PM
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From: FL
Originally Posted by need-a-t2
I have a full machine shop, so nothing is out of the realm of possibility.
better balance?
spark plug area cooling mod?

Originally Posted by j9fd3s
... the I rotary seals just take 3x the premix and need weird ecu tuning
wow! this is unfortunate. i had actually gotten excited to try them for my REW.
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Old Jun 10, 2023 | 08:24 PM
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From: binghamton, ny
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
if you're going to run the stock turbos you should keep the stock sleeves, its like a matched set.
i would also skip the I Rotary seals. they are good if you're trying to make a ton of power and need like a fuse in the system. if you're just after stock + power, the I rotary seals just take 3x the premix and need weird ecu tuning
obviously IMO, but i did look at all of the warped seal threads i can find
i'll likely start out with the twins just to get up and running, but eventually I'd like to go single.

so, I've heard so many mixed things about the Irotary seals. I had originally ordered stock seals, but at the advice of the gentleman whos going to be doing the tuning, I exchanged them for the Irotary seals. I'm certainly open to suggestions on the best seal for a street application.
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Old Jun 11, 2023 | 06:24 AM
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From: MELBOURNE AUSTRALIA
For 20+ years i have only used PTS Apex seals and corner seals on all the road and race car engines that i have built and had great success with them .Under all types of conditions. None have warped or broken and seem to be gentle on housings
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Old Jun 12, 2023 | 09:51 AM
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[are I rotary seals the Ianetii ceramic ones? How many versions of seals are there?
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Old Jun 12, 2023 | 10:42 AM
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From: binghamton, ny
Originally Posted by cardmarc
[are I rotary seals the Ianetii ceramic ones? How many versions of seals are there?
no, they are the metallic ones. I think those are the only 2 offerings from Ianetti, but don't quote me on that.
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Old Jun 14, 2023 | 01:11 AM
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From: brooklyn
I read somewhere that early code eshafts suffered failure around the 400hp mark w/ stock twins in low-rpm/high-load scenarios. Not sure if you're worried about this; seems easily avoidable if it's driven properly. Just thought it was worth mentioning in a reliability thread.

Best of luck with the build
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