OK i still got this problem that i just cant seem to get rid off and i need help badly
basic problem :
car sputters at around 8~10 psi of boost
checked fuel A/F seems fine
fuel system is up to spec (1000cc prim 1600cc sec/dual walbro`s /upgraded lines /rails and regulator)
checked ,double checked all harness conections and wires
i am now checking timing and i noticed the weirdest thing my CAS is stabbed in correctly , but when i check with a timing light i get something horribly off it seems way too advanced , my microthech says @ idle i should be 18* but when i check i get the timing mark is way off
when i try timing lock (microtech) car has problems idling and agai marks someting way off
And yet the cas is installed correctly
A friend of mine (old rotorhead) told me (i am not really shure if this is even possible ) that if my plugs are fouled i coud get a off reading with the timing light
I am so frustrated now i am willing to believe anything
what should i do ?

 

anything? you need to give me the car, it wont have that problem when i drive it.....

to dial in the timing you need the engines top dead center, to be the same as what the ecu thinks it is.

find tdc on the motor, does it match the pulley? where did you get your pulley? you can mismatch parts and get something thats way off

next, you need to zero out the locked timing on the ecu, when the ecu says -5btdc, the timing light needs to be on -5btdc.

after that its a good idea to make sure when the ecu says 18btdc at idle, that its actually running 18btdc with a timing light.

and if you want to go even further, set the timing in the ecu to something across the board, like 20btdc, and make sure the timing really is 20btdc at several different rpms.

 

the pulley is the original 20B pulley that the engine came with , engine seems to be at TDC ,pulley is on the mark at 5 when i do this ,
but as soon as i try to put the timing gun on it , it doesnt seem no-where near what it says it should ,
when locking the timing i get also some wierd crap that doesnt even come close , plus the engine tries to stall on me when i do that
i havve no clue whats going on here !

PS if the car keeps this **** up , i might really be considering giving it to you !!

 

I had the same problem with microtech.
The unit came from the factory with the first and third rotor ignition wires switched.
I figured it out by marking the pulley at 120 degree intervals, then connecting each coil to the timing light and cranking the engine. (The trailers were correct from the factory). Engine started right up. Happened again, and had to do the same thing with the pulley: but - wires had to go back to factory setting. Had to send the unit back to repair. Try borrowing a microtech from someone and see what the timing light says with the borrowed microtech installed. Then you know if you need to keep troubleshooting, or to send the unit back to Australia.

 

You could also have a faulty CAS. I would source one of those 1st before sending the ecu back to AUS. I know of one 20b forum member whos CAS failed causing him problems like this.

 

the second gen cas and 20B cas are the same right? can i swap a second gen cas in there ?, will it work ?

 

now i remember i am also in posesion of a complete cosmo 13b ....the cas looks almost identical , could that work?

 

^ I think they are but not really sure. Your better off asking someone in the ecu tuning section.

 

i just pulled my 20b front cover off the other day to replace it with an FD one. You can have mine cheap if you want... just give me a holler . -heath

(btw do you have a stock 20b main pulley and 20b accessories or FD accessories? just wondering since they are different sizes)

 

I am still working on the suspension issues, hope you figure this out first. I SHOULD have answers in 2-3 weeks, as I am prepping it for the track.

 

The FC CAS are the same as the 20b CAS

 

yo bastard...like ur nick verymuch...

"The FC CAS are the same as the 20b CAS" +1

 

ok here is where i am at so far
i changed the CAS unit for a cosmo one i had here in the shop lying around
at idle my microtech says i have to be at 18deg , so when i shoot the timing light on it , its about right
but here is where it gets a bit funny
when i go to check timing (timing lock) it goes to 10deg BTDC , (microtech manual states it should be 5deg ATDC) so when i adjust that to 5deg ATDC
and i release the timing lock , i get around 14~15deg BTDC (all this while i am suppose to be idling at 18deg BTDC
So ...what gives??
anybody have had this before ? , am i doing something wrong? , is this how it should work ?
Any input is highly regarded thank you

 

Which microtech are you running?

Is it an X series?

What coil setup are you running?

 

I am running the LTx 12 and I am using the MSd coils , I know there are some coils that supposedly don't go well with the microtech unit ,but these are supposedly the right ones ,I checked that with jon

 

well, i'd be lying if i said that i am an authority at all on microtechs (or anything for that matter), but i've heard from many sources that the ignitors built into the ..X... series are prone to overheating causing damage to the associated circuitry. I'm not sure how the coil combo you have works, so it might not be that, but it's all I got.

Are those coils internally ignited? If so, does the microtech have an option to turn off its ignitors (i'd assume so)?

 

ok , i checked with jon again , seems there is a small thing in the manual that isnt really correct
all this time i was adjusting the cas (with timing lock on ) to the first mark (5deg after) but it seems it must be adjusted to tru zero according to jon
i did that and now the cars timing seems to be about right
i just have to put everything back together now and take her for a spin
let see how that goes
i will keep you guys posted!!