what kind of hp is the 20b capable of with out opening the motor. but doing a great amount of work all around turbo, exhaust , fuel injectors and exc.... tryin to do some research before starting this project.

 

123456789101112131415 hp

where in lake county you at?

 

miniola

 

Without opening the motor and using the stock twins, somewhere around 400 WHP. This assumes upgraded fuel system, intercooler, and an ECU to control everything. This would be comparable to the Pettit Banzai 3 rotor.

As for a single setup, I wouldn't put a single turbo on without opening up the engine. I would envision a big kaboom Pettit did have a yellow, very radical 3 rotor that had the Pettit 3 rotor (basically a stock engine although rebuilt) and a single turbo. The conversion work was done about 4 years ago but it was just on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8Nl2...eature=related

It's definitely a single turbo (can't remember which one) and I think it's also been dowel pinned but it's been a while.

 

what psi will the stock apex seals hold and if i open the motor what would be the best thing to do in it, ive ported and bridged 13bs and 12as but this will b my first 20B

 

depending on the cars user, i would do a streetport or brodge. if your going to have such an amazing engine, why not see what its capable of. how bout twin to4rs?

 

Search my Lake County brotheren and then go read the FAQ at the top of the forum if you still can't find anything. Most your questions have been asked all before.
Have you already purchased this 20B you're looking at intalling? If not, you might consider just purchasing my car that it for sale. It will save you big time and money.

 

The stock intake porting is pretty large and will support over 600rwhp. The main restriction is the 20b exhaust sleeves which will effect top end power. The other restriction is the series engine you have. Early pre "A" series engines have weaker e-shafts and less metal around the side plate dowel pin sections. These engines can twist under high boost pressures and need modifications to make them more reliable. The ideal engines are "C" series and up. I know of one 9.7 compression"D" series 20b w/Gt40R turbo that is making over 400LBS at 3,500rpm and has no extra dowels or studs. Older engines would have twisted long ago.

 

do you guys know of any places that have any c or d series 20b been calling different places but that dont know s%$# ,i tried to walk them threw to find out but they seem like idots

 

japan2la on tis forum. PM him.

 

is that person on the board?

 

I think BCool was making around 235HP NA without cracking it open.

 

Yep name is streldoc. I also need to add that his engine was kinda pieced together with newer parts and is not neccessarily a full "D"series engine. He does have a "D"series e-shaft and new plates. Any new parts you get from Mazda will be the most updated parts.


Here's a link to the dyno chart. I was a little off in the torque but danm that's a nice curve.

http://www.7parts.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12

 

What exact spec is that GT40R?

I have one on my 13B right now but I'm trying to piece together a 20B in the longer term.

Considering the low end torque in the dyno, I guess he broke some gearboxes already or how is that turning out for him?

 

Just had my FD on the Dyno last week, fresh C code block streetported, new seals, doweled, etc, etc and it made 550whp @ 10psi and its still needs to really be broken in so just shows what these motors can do when you take a fresh motor and build it properly. Im running a T6 gt42r with a 5" downpipe full spool by 3200rpm and all the supporting goodies.

My point is refresh a C or D block and that way you have a fresh motor and you can be confident about the whole build!

 

Damn that's a lot of power for only 10psi. As if we didn't already know!!!! 20b's are the shizznit.
You mind posting a graph? I would love to see the bottom end torque.

 

the stock exhaust ports limit you to around 450whp. even at that level you will have lag issues. It is still a nice way to get used to the engine and the extra torque if you need to wait to port the engine for budget reasons or something.

 

Next time im at the shop I will get a copy and post it for you guys

 

for a 20B on the street all you really need is a street port, that will get you more than enough power with the right turbo/fuel setup.

also if you were to open the motor just do a full rebuild use upgraded seals do a streetport and put a mild sized turbo on it and go from there. we had a guy come in he has a percision turbo not sure on the size and a streetport and at 18lbs of boost made 585WHP if i remember correctly. but the car is a monster on the street 1** MPH pulls come natural to a car of that power.

 

I'd love to see a dyno of this also. I "only" made 525 at 12 PSI and 649 at 18 Streetported C series with a T78BB.

 

i love all this 20B talk lol "Only 649WHP at 18lbs" i cant wait to get a real job after school and be able to throw those figures around lol.

 

I'm only looking for 500hp at 12 or 13 psi. Sounds doable.

 

its very doable with the proper port and the right turbo and a proper tune 500 is a breeze for the 20B

 

I've got a pre A series engine so 500 is my max safe limit. But yeah it's streetported and the turbo is probably good enough. It's one of those fairly cheap cxracing turbos with a .96 hotside small enough for good spool and driveability but large enough to max out around 500 hp.

Walbro 255 and bosch 1600 secondaries. Still debating whether to size up my fuel send line (from stock 5/16 up to 3/8) and get a second walbro to run them parallel.

 

^^Jeff, do those cxracing turbos have any kind of track record? It theyre the ones I'm thinking of, I havent heard good things.