20B FC Fitting Questions
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From: Tampa, Florida
Just put the 20B in the car (FC)
Ok guys most of you have seen my thread in the 2nd gen forum under (my 20B fc build). Anyway, I just got the engine in the car and lets just say Damn that thing is huge. I recommend that someone have atleast one other person to help you put this thing in as I did it by myself and it sucked. Anyway, all of the mentioned problems are there. Sway bar in the way, water pump neck to high, altentator bracket to high, twin piping in the way, and the engine sits really far foward.
Right now I need some opinions on how to fix the problem. The sway bar, well how can I put this gently, really sucks and needs to be removed. Spacer brackets are not going to work. It sits really low and doesn't even line up with the original holes any more. AS for the rest of the engine bay I have come up with 2 options.
1 Put on a 13B water pump, cut and weld the twin piping, get a coustom piece to go to the throttle body, and cut the hood a little bit.
2 Leave everthing as it is and cut a N/A aluminium hood and blend in a fiberglass cowl induction piece.
Any other options or suggestions would be great. Look forward to hearing some great ideas.
Usfdr
Right now I need some opinions on how to fix the problem. The sway bar, well how can I put this gently, really sucks and needs to be removed. Spacer brackets are not going to work. It sits really low and doesn't even line up with the original holes any more. AS for the rest of the engine bay I have come up with 2 options.
1 Put on a 13B water pump, cut and weld the twin piping, get a coustom piece to go to the throttle body, and cut the hood a little bit.
2 Leave everthing as it is and cut a N/A aluminium hood and blend in a fiberglass cowl induction piece.
Any other options or suggestions would be great. Look forward to hearing some great ideas.
Usfdr
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,233
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
i mentioned this already in the other thread, but the cosmo water pump will fit, but you need a t2 hood, to fit the intake manifold. they do look sweet though, i was thinking about making my manifolds that color
mike
mike
Re: Just put the 20B in the car (FC)
Originally posted by usfdr
<snip>
I recommend that someone have atleast one other person to help you put this thing in as I did it by myself and it sucked. Anyway, all of the mentioned problems are there. Sway bar in the way, water pump neck to high, altentator bracket to high, twin piping in the way, and the engine sits really far foward.
Right now I need some opinions on how to fix the problem. The sway bar, well how can I put this gently, really sucks and needs to be removed. Spacer brackets are not going to work. It sits really low and doesn't even line up with the original holes any more. AS for the rest of the engine bay I have come up with 2 options.
1 Put on a 13B water pump, cut and weld the twin piping, get a coustom piece to go to the throttle body, and cut the hood a little bit.
2 Leave everthing as it is and cut a N/A aluminium hood and blend in a fiberglass cowl induction piece.
Any other options or suggestions would be great. Look forward to hearing some great ideas.
Usfdr
<snip>
I recommend that someone have atleast one other person to help you put this thing in as I did it by myself and it sucked. Anyway, all of the mentioned problems are there. Sway bar in the way, water pump neck to high, altentator bracket to high, twin piping in the way, and the engine sits really far foward.
Right now I need some opinions on how to fix the problem. The sway bar, well how can I put this gently, really sucks and needs to be removed. Spacer brackets are not going to work. It sits really low and doesn't even line up with the original holes any more. AS for the rest of the engine bay I have come up with 2 options.
1 Put on a 13B water pump, cut and weld the twin piping, get a coustom piece to go to the throttle body, and cut the hood a little bit.
2 Leave everthing as it is and cut a N/A aluminium hood and blend in a fiberglass cowl induction piece.
Any other options or suggestions would be great. Look forward to hearing some great ideas.
Usfdr
If you haven't already seen it, take a look at www.cris.com/~Asam/20B.html I can't provide a lot more info than what is on the page, since I'm lazy and hired the work done. If you're near the Virginia/Maryland area, you could check with Peter Farrell and/or Mitch Piper for some guidance.
Mitch and Peter fabricated a custom swaybar for my car, since there was no good way to use the stock one. It's a little more heavy-duty than stock to allow for the greater weight of the motor.
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Re: Re: Just put the 20B in the car (FC)
Originally posted by Attila the Fun
I'm impressed. If you put the thing in single-handedly, you must have a red 'S' on your chest.
.
I'm impressed. If you put the thing in single-handedly, you must have a red 'S' on your chest.
.
I could NOT get the TII hood to close with the 20B water pump and alt. bracket. It wasn't even close so I'm assuming you must have made your own brackets Mike for the motor mounts because the ones that K2RD provides won't allow you to do that.
I made my own dual thermostat housing and relocated the alternator so it is currently where the PS pump used to be. Only way I could get the hood to close.
If you are good at it, then just cut the hood out and do a fiberglass cowl that will fit your extra accessories as it will be much cheaper, far less engineering work to do, and probably get you more fresh air across the top of the motor (not a bad thing at all).
The swaybar... we used the stock one but had to move it forward about 2-3 inches (~about 8-10cm) and weld on different tabs to the trailing arm so the end links of the sway bar had something to attach to. It seemed the cheapest, easiest thing to do at the time. Out of most of the solutions I've seen on here, this seems to be the easist.
MVA motorsport is working on a custom oil pan for a 20B conversion that will allow you to keep your stock sway bar. Who knows when that will ever get done though? (don't flame me... sorry but I've lost my patience with companies doing custom pieces for the 20B as I've been delayed numerous times... and there's no big demand for such an item, it's legitimate to think it will take a while).
Hope that helps some,
Kerry.
I made my own dual thermostat housing and relocated the alternator so it is currently where the PS pump used to be. Only way I could get the hood to close.
If you are good at it, then just cut the hood out and do a fiberglass cowl that will fit your extra accessories as it will be much cheaper, far less engineering work to do, and probably get you more fresh air across the top of the motor (not a bad thing at all).
The swaybar... we used the stock one but had to move it forward about 2-3 inches (~about 8-10cm) and weld on different tabs to the trailing arm so the end links of the sway bar had something to attach to. It seemed the cheapest, easiest thing to do at the time. Out of most of the solutions I've seen on here, this seems to be the easist.
MVA motorsport is working on a custom oil pan for a 20B conversion that will allow you to keep your stock sway bar. Who knows when that will ever get done though? (don't flame me... sorry but I've lost my patience with companies doing custom pieces for the 20B as I've been delayed numerous times... and there's no big demand for such an item, it's legitimate to think it will take a while).
Hope that helps some,
Kerry.
Re: Re: Re: Just put the 20B in the car (FC)
Originally posted by rotaspec
Well, I'm the proverbial 140lb weakling, and I managed to get the 20B with 5spd attached, into the FC on my own with the hood still on. Do I get a prize?
Well, I'm the proverbial 140lb weakling, and I managed to get the 20B with 5spd attached, into the FC on my own with the hood still on. Do I get a prize?
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Originally posted by Turbo 3
I made my own dual thermostat housing and relocated the alternator so it is currently where the PS pump used to be. Only way I could get the hood to close.
I made my own dual thermostat housing and relocated the alternator so it is currently where the PS pump used to be. Only way I could get the hood to close.
If you want more images that's fine and I'll email some to you but they are NOT to be placed on the 'net. If you can handle that, then we understand each other
I've got two of the turbo that that are pretty funny too...
I've got two of the turbo that that are pretty funny too...
Sure email me all the pics you can! I promise to keep them confidential to myself. bridgeported20b@yahoo.com
Thanks bud
Thanks bud
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From: Tampa, Florida
Well I checked it again and with a little cutting underneath the hood it looks like everything will fit, minus the intake elbow. I got the hood to catch the latch without any modifications. I can see what it is hitting and it looks like it will be no problem to cut and get the extra clearance. Its close but I'm pretty sure it is going to clear.
So that means no water pump modifications or altenator relocation. Also that was with the power steering pump in place. Looks like good news.
UsfDr
So that means no water pump modifications or altenator relocation. Also that was with the power steering pump in place. Looks like good news.
UsfDr
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Joined: Oct 2002
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I'd like to post some pics but my friend has my digital camera right now. I know some people are going to be sceptical about this because almost everyone modifies these items. Maybe I can get Evil over to take a look so he can verify for you guys.
Does anyone have pics of how they ran their intercooler piping with the 20B in the FC? I don't suppose anyone has tried keeping their power steering and air conditioning?
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally posted by HyperRex
Does anyone have pics of how they ran their intercooler piping with the 20B in the FC? I don't suppose anyone has tried keeping their power steering and air conditioning?
Does anyone have pics of how they ran their intercooler piping with the 20B in the FC? I don't suppose anyone has tried keeping their power steering and air conditioning?
www.cris.com/~Asam/20B.html
Originally posted by CHEF_EG_1
not if he was still asking the $39,900 that he wanted for it.
not if he was still asking the $39,900 that he wanted for it.
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