Short question - HTH do I get this friggin' carb off?

Long story - My car has always started easily, ran pretty well, and got decent mileage. About a year ago, I started to get a slight off idle stumble which has gotten progressively worse ...now just to get rolling I must lightly pump the accelerator until the RPM's come up...then it runs fine...Has no stumble at all when the choke is pulled out...accelerator pump...right? I knew this was going to need attention...later on...until yesterday while adding oil I noticed how clean the accelerator pump area was....looked closer and I could actually see gas weeping (pretty much a steady trickle) from the area. Rebuild time has come!
I've read and watched as countless numbskulls write in needing help getting their carb out...no problem...I could do this easy! Well it's not so easy! This is not a "I'm gonna just wing it" project. I'll start searching old threads and achieves, but in the meantime...if any Guru's could help out a numbskull with some words of wisdom...I'd appreciate it.

 

You looking for help getting all the "stuff" disconnected off of it or getting to the drivers side rear nut to remove it?

 

If its that rear drivers side nut. Its wise to sacrafice a wrench and bend it in the middle so it can get on the nut easily. The Previous Owner of my car didnt know how to work on cars at all and he was the original owner. He only brought the car to the dealer for service. (Was my G/F's Uncle so I know he wouldn't lie) Anyway, the rear drivers side nut for the carb was never put back on my car. So when removed my carb and went to reinstall it, i didnt put one on either simply b.c its a PITA

 

I want to get the carb off the engine so I can rebuild it. My first thought was to just remove the air horn and then the main body and clean all of that up, but there is just so much extraneous crap connected to everything else, I'm thinking it might be easier to remove the entire carb from the intake.....I'm so confused!

I also have a stripped NIKKI and stripped intake that I was going to add in the summer (after I pulled the rat's nest). Might it just be easier to do that now? My problem is I drive this car in the winter (live in WI and it has always started....even on the coldest days), and without a choke...I'm afraid it'll become difficult to start. The plan was to run the stripped set in the summer, and the choked version for the other three seasons.

 

what carb do you have ?? nikki, weber, holley ?

 

Stock NIKKI on a 12a

 

Funny how everyone automatically knows its that driver side rear nut that's the problem... We've all been there lol.

If you don't want to bend a wrench you can usually get it wit the open end of a normal wrench, but modifying one definatly makes it easier. The other 3 nuts aren't too bad to get to, although removing the anti afterburn valve makes the passenger side rear nut easy to get to. Otherwise its just a matter of remvoing the fuel lines, omp rod, a few vaccum lines and electrical plugs for the TPS (useless) and the vent valve (whatever that thing is called by the fuel rail) and don't forget the throttle cable and choke cable...

Is there one part of it specifically that's stumping you??

 

Just get it loose, using an open ended wrench. Then use your digits to roll it off. Gl.

 

+1

*shrug*

the rest is just cables and hoses, i don't know what explanation is needed there aside from pics or labelling and removal versus looking and head scratching.

 

I also had this problem 2 weeks ago. But I don't need to get my carb off yet so I'm gonna leave it in for now. It is kinda crazy to get off, especially when I'm nervous as hell to try and not break anything

 

The FSM and a digital camera or camera phone are your friends. Take pics of everything before you remove. Also have either a bent or shoretened wrench handy....

 

Get those $5 wrench sets at parts store. Bend them. I put a dab grease on the closed end, this helps hold the nut so you can seat it.

 

+1 83Limited - a digital camera is your best friend. Take multiple pictures of every connection, hose, and part. When disassembling the carb I found it helpful to have the new carb kit ready and a box with separate bins for keeping parts separate and organized. Good luck. I found it to be quite a fun project.

 

Thanks to all! I couldn't have done it without you.
I ended up bending a cheap 12mm combination wrench...wasn't difficult, just slow and laborious.

I do have a couple of self induced problems...which I'm sorting through...basically the carb was surprisingly clean (acc. pump was toast), although I did take everything apart and soaked it overnight in carb cleaner. put it all back together and got the car started pretty easily...although...I've lost that off idle stumeble ....I'm now stumbling once it gets over 4k rpm?
Starting out it'll run fine....I can even bring it up through the gears to about 5k if I drive like a Grandma....but any kind of hard excelleration and it'll sputter & spit at about 4K....What's up with that?
I'll start a new thread about things I broke (hint..when I pulled the sub-zero hose it split and it's currently uncovered...same thing with a little green plastic valve on the passenger side that hooked into the lower throttle body...I broke the plastic...now it's just open)...

 

you can replace just the accelerator pump diaphram. then find another carb and get to learning...thats what is would do

 

You're probably leaning out some, & possibly your secondaries are't opening right.

Cap that open line on the psg side, it will probably help -- likely a vacuum leak for you -- & make sure your secondary linkage is not binding.

Also check your teeter-totter, make sure it hasn't flipped.

 

Getting the nut off isn't too bad. Getting it back on is another issue!

 

Getting it back on without dropping it down here, you mean...

 

I put the nut over a screwdriver, slide it up and hold on to it. Then put the tip if the diver on top the stud. Then use your other hand and start the nut.

 

I do a similar thing with a steel pick. Haven't dropped one in a long time, but when you do, that's where they go.

To get them out, I use a magnet retriever. Which is why I did not and will not switch these nuts out to stainless steel!

 

I did switch to SS. I use one of those claw grabbers to get the ones I drop.

 

That's the trick!