Got my new (old style) carb floats installed today. It took a little fiddling with the tabs to get the float levels the way I wanted them, but she is all buttoned back together and running again.

Here are some pics of the old style vs. the new style. The old style definitely take up more room in the bowl. For this reason is why the "experts" say the fuel slosh should be eliminated.

RX-7 style



RX-3 style



Side by side photo





Also, with this style float, the needle valve would not mount up with the little thin wire thinggy that was on the needle. This wire "looks" like it's main purpose is just to keep the needle, pin and spring together. It seems to work perfect.

ANy idea if this thin wire serves any other purpose???

 

So did you end up getting two of the same side Rx-3 floats like I did? What was your method for setting the float levels?

I'm with you, and I think that the thin wire on the needle valves is just to keep them from falling out or slipping off of the float tabs. It will probably work fine without them.

 

Yes I used two of the same side ones.

When I first put the floats in, the level was set way too low. I pulled the floats out and bent the tab inward. The one closest to the firewall adjusted easily. The other one was tough because the level never wanted to come up. I ended up having to bend and play with that one a little more.

Anyhow I don't do the measure method like in the FSM. I adjust, put it in and look in the window....take apart...adjust again.

 

The "little wire thingy's" purpose is to prevent the needles from getting stuck (& possibly varnished) closed.

It uses the weight of the float to pull the needle off the seat as fuel level drops, rather than trusting to the tiny weight of the needle itself do do the job against fuel surface tension and possible suction in the lines caused by fuel cooling.

 

Just a couple of things , when you turn hard left the gas in the float bowl gets pushed to the right ,but even with the small bowl size,and setting the floats still leaves a small amount of air space above the float when pushed the fuel goes up the right wall of the float bowl and as it is being pushed over it uncovers both of the primary Carb jets which as you know creates a stumble or dead spot, the floats may help but will not eliminate the stumble , I also can recommend that you replace the standard fuel pump,which only pumps 20 gal per hour for one that does from 80 to 100 gal,I had a 12a years ago with a stock pump that would empty the float bowls, In first gear ,then stumble and die,due to fuel starvation.

 

My problem is NOT fuel starvation. It was fuel slosh and going pig rich and flooding the engine. Sterling has a write up about this and what he was describing was this to a "T". Also on Sterlings website there was a road racer who had the same problem. He said he 100% fixed the problem with these exact oversized floats..

I will keep my fingers crossed.

 

Glen, I will keep my eye on this. The way these "different" floats are, the springy thinggy was binding up and I am afraid that would be more problematic.

I hope the weight of the needle with the fuel pressure pushing it will be sufficient. Plus this car with super stiff springs and racing tires is so rough.... it would prolly shake the needle open!!!!

If not I will upgrade to some Grose jets!!!

 

Jim,

I responded to your email. Try reducing your fuel pressure until the issue goes away.
Worked for me, and did not seem to perform any differently at the lower pressures other
than the lack of left hand bog.



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