Why won't my car start when it's hot???
#1
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Why won't my car start when it's hot???
As the subject says, my car won't start when it's hot... I drive it for 15 minutes or more, shut it off to talk to someone, and then 2-3 minutes later go to start it, and it'll just crank and crank and crank, but not fire. I don't have the hot start assist motor in anymore, and it starts fine when cool or warm by tapping the gas 2x, but after it warms up in the 40degree celsius Kamloops desert weather, it won't start... Is there something else I can try? Or should I try putting the hot start assist motor back on? I'm tired of almost killing my battery (1050 cca, 120min reserve time) trying to start 'er up when she's hot... It's left me stranded once or twice, and forced me to push start 'er down a hill more than once...
Jeff
Jeff
#2
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All the hot start assist does is slightly open the throttle on cranking which can easily be replicated by the use of your right foot.
How old's your engine? When an engine starts to wear and get low on compression they can be difficult to start when hot. Another possibility is the carb flooding or leaking fuel when the engine's off causing the hard starting and I'd also make sure the battery, starter and wiring are in good condition.
How old's your engine? When an engine starts to wear and get low on compression they can be difficult to start when hot. Another possibility is the carb flooding or leaking fuel when the engine's off causing the hard starting and I'd also make sure the battery, starter and wiring are in good condition.
#3
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well, I definately replicate the hot start assist then...
The engine is out of an '83 GSL, and has relatively low miles I'm assuming (the owner did quite know how many, but he thought it was around 100,000 kms), low compared to my old engine. The battery is brand new from crappy tire, a Motomaster eliminator with 1050cca, and 120min reserve... and the starter seems to be fine, 'cause it cranks it over failry fast.
Any suggestions or tips on how to make it easier to start when it's hot, even with low compression?
Jeff
The engine is out of an '83 GSL, and has relatively low miles I'm assuming (the owner did quite know how many, but he thought it was around 100,000 kms), low compared to my old engine. The battery is brand new from crappy tire, a Motomaster eliminator with 1050cca, and 120min reserve... and the starter seems to be fine, 'cause it cranks it over failry fast.
Any suggestions or tips on how to make it easier to start when it's hot, even with low compression?
Jeff
#4
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I had this problem. It was my carb. It was flooding on hot start. I got a lot of nice white smoke when it would get started (gasoline). Never did solve though, just switched back to my old carb . Sucks cause the other one was modified nicely. I know that doesn't help too much then .
#5
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hmmm... i thought white smoke was coolant?! Oh well.... I'll have to see if I can get one of my friends to stand back there when I hot start it, maybe my carb is flooding....
Any other trick/tips?
Jeff
Any other trick/tips?
Jeff
#6
nice avatar.. i like... really patriotic.. My car does the same thing when its hot.. difference is that I have a switch to turn on my fuel pump.. works awesome.. also works as a theft deterrent as u can go no where without fuel... just crank the engine over.. it will start with gas in the line, then flip ur pump on... works awesome... BTW i have a gsl-se 13b EFI, but that matters very little... hope that helps...
Daryl
Daryl
#7
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hmmm... I do have an extra switch spot in my ash tray area.... maybe I'll make it for the fuel pump, then hope that no one touches it on me...
Yeah, I thought the avatar showed quite well the patriotism that canadians have... especially the chicks
Jeff
Yeah, I thought the avatar showed quite well the patriotism that canadians have... especially the chicks
Jeff
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#9
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haha... yeah, that's it! The "ultra-high performance radials" right? Abbreviated "P.O.S's" for Positive Ontrack Sensitivity....
No, it's a good battery though... $200 cnd...works great, lots of crank, lots of reserve, really hard to kill. Made by Canadian Tire, in case you weren't joking, and for anyone who is candian illiterate....
Jeff
No, it's a good battery though... $200 cnd...works great, lots of crank, lots of reserve, really hard to kill. Made by Canadian Tire, in case you weren't joking, and for anyone who is candian illiterate....
Jeff
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White smoke can be coolant as well, but this was gas. The smell told us that . Plus, changing the carb probably wouldn't fix a coolant leak.
When mine smoked though, it really really smoked. Like a good nice dense cloud visable from airplanes at 25000 ft.
When mine smoked though, it really really smoked. Like a good nice dense cloud visable from airplanes at 25000 ft.
#11
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haha, kinda like the '79 engine out of my car before... couldn't see it at all.... all the time :s
This problem is really annoying me though, I can't go anywhere without worrying if my car will start when I go back out to it... I'm thinking of just insuring my subaru GL instead of the Rex right now...
Jeff
This problem is really annoying me though, I can't go anywhere without worrying if my car will start when I go back out to it... I'm thinking of just insuring my subaru GL instead of the Rex right now...
Jeff
#12
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Gas smoke should be black.
Anyway, putting a fuel pump switch on a carbed car isn't such a hot idea, as you'd have to run the car to empty the float bowls, which takes quite awhile.
Next time it does it, pull the air cleaner lid off and look for gas dribbling down into the venturis. If there is some, you need carb work (possibly needle and seats or sticky floats). If not, compression check time.
Also, don't pump the gas when it floods. Put the gas to the floor ONCE and hold it while you turn it over. Don't let the gas pedal up until it starts.
Anyway, putting a fuel pump switch on a carbed car isn't such a hot idea, as you'd have to run the car to empty the float bowls, which takes quite awhile.
Next time it does it, pull the air cleaner lid off and look for gas dribbling down into the venturis. If there is some, you need carb work (possibly needle and seats or sticky floats). If not, compression check time.
Also, don't pump the gas when it floods. Put the gas to the floor ONCE and hold it while you turn it over. Don't let the gas pedal up until it starts.
#13
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try it one day when you're at home so you can check the plugs when it does it ... hopefully it will turn out to be the carbie/flooding thing that everyone says ...
if not, then i think i'd have to go with revhed on this one. i think one (or both) of your rotors is down on compression. you can either check the compression with a gauge or pour some thick oil down the carb when it's hot and not starting and try to start it afterwards ...
if not, then i think i'd have to go with revhed on this one. i think one (or both) of your rotors is down on compression. you can either check the compression with a gauge or pour some thick oil down the carb when it's hot and not starting and try to start it afterwards ...
#14
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hmmmm.... ok, so carb work or compression... I can deal with the carb work, cause the carb I have on it sat for a year. Maybe I'll put the old carb off the '79 on, so I know it works and isn't flooding. I don't think it's compression, 'cause I'd notice a power lack, and hard low temp starting (-15 celsius and lower), wouldn't I?
Jeff
Jeff
#16
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yeah, that's what I was thinking... Maybe I'll go out and put the old carb on it.... besides, it has less emissions crap on it...
Jeff
Jeff
#18
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Mine was having a very similar problem. Turned out to be flooding due to poor needles/seats. BTW, don't just pull the needles and look at them and think they're fine. My old ones(which looked brand new) only looked bad when next to the new ones. They were bent very slightly at the tips and allowing the bowls to overflow.
BrianHeston
BrianHeston
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My '83 12A had that problem - caused by virtually zero compression in one of the rotors. Since I bought the car for $900 and it had a hockey sock full of things wrong with it I just parked it and cannibalize it for parts.
#20
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Originally posted by Manntis
My '83 12A had that problem - caused by virtually zero compression in one of the rotors. Since I bought the car for $900 and it had a hockey sock full of things wrong with it I just parked it and cannibalize it for parts.
My '83 12A had that problem - caused by virtually zero compression in one of the rotors. Since I bought the car for $900 and it had a hockey sock full of things wrong with it I just parked it and cannibalize it for parts.
Bah, don't say that!! Even though I only paid $250 Canadian for the engine... but I doubt it's compression, 'cause the car still runs like a dream, and I can pass people in 5th up hills.... do THAT with a running-on-one-rotor 12A engine I'll get down to the flooding thing, and probably just swap carbs, rather than rebuild or adjust the one on there...
Jeff
#21
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Originally posted by Pittdp
I had to replace the silver thing up above the arrow. I cannot remember what it is called. I think it is the starter assist, not sure.
I had to replace the silver thing up above the arrow. I cannot remember what it is called. I think it is the starter assist, not sure.
Jeff... again...
#22
Seven Is Coming
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Mine does this same thing right now...Im sure its flooding though...Theres always dark smoke and a strong gas smell after it does start, and sometimes as soon as I start cranking . I guess Ill pull the carb and eventually rebuild, but not until I feel like it .
~T.J.
~T.J.
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yeah, we got lotsa divided highways around here, and truck passing lanes... No, I wouldn't pass on a double solid, up a hill and around a corner
Jeff
Jeff