Why no Aluminium radiator?
01-25-04, 04:12 PM
#1
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Why no Aluminium radiator?
I'm continually searching for an Aluminium radiator for the RX-7 to no avail...
Just outta curiousity, anyone have any idea why?
Brass' Cons:
Different metal.. Electrolytic chemical reaction creates corrosion buildup...
Heavier... Weight = teh sux0r
More expensive... I think
Less thermoconductively efficient... Also, I think...
So yeah... To create one, I was toying with the idea of getting a SA radiator (Thick enough end tanks to take 3 row cores) and a tall style FB radiator for the side brackets, and having a local radiator shop recore it with a 3 row aluminium core, using the SA end tanks and the tall style brackets as a measurement for length...
But all the 1st gen radiators I've seen anywhere have brass end tanks... I was looking at some aftermarket radiators for the RX-7 and found some wiht plastic end tanks... Anyone know if the plastic end tanks are avialable from anywhere seperately?
Just outta curiousity, anyone have any idea why?
Brass' Cons:
Different metal.. Electrolytic chemical reaction creates corrosion buildup...
Heavier... Weight = teh sux0r
More expensive... I think
Less thermoconductively efficient... Also, I think...
So yeah... To create one, I was toying with the idea of getting a SA radiator (Thick enough end tanks to take 3 row cores) and a tall style FB radiator for the side brackets, and having a local radiator shop recore it with a 3 row aluminium core, using the SA end tanks and the tall style brackets as a measurement for length...
But all the 1st gen radiators I've seen anywhere have brass end tanks... I was looking at some aftermarket radiators for the RX-7 and found some wiht plastic end tanks... Anyone know if the plastic end tanks are avialable from anywhere seperately?
01-25-04, 08:17 PM
#3
Howe Radiators has a radiator that works with 1st gen. Just Measure yours and go to summitracing.com Must drill bolt holes.
Keep in mind, you don't want a big radiator that's too effective in cooling. I got a 19 x 22" x 1.5" thick Howe aluminum radiator on the blue racecar and my temps are too low in the fall and winter. I have to put three strips of duct tape over the top of the radiator to block flow and warm water up to 180*F.
!!!!On the other hand, my radiator will prevent water getting hot in the summer time!!!!!
Keep in mind, you don't want a big radiator that's too effective in cooling. I got a 19 x 22" x 1.5" thick Howe aluminum radiator on the blue racecar and my temps are too low in the fall and winter. I have to put three strips of duct tape over the top of the radiator to block flow and warm water up to 180*F.
!!!!On the other hand, my radiator will prevent water getting hot in the summer time!!!!!
01-25-04, 08:51 PM
#4
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Originally posted by DriveFast7
Keep in mind, you don't want a big radiator that's too effective in cooling.
Keep in mind, you don't want a big radiator that's too effective in cooling.
01-25-04, 09:59 PM
#5
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Originally posted by Pele
Huh? Why not? Isn't the thermostat supposed to regulate the temps?
Huh? Why not? Isn't the thermostat supposed to regulate the temps?
01-26-04, 01:33 AM
#6
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Originally posted by cdrad51
exactly. getting a different temp thermostat should handle that.
exactly. getting a different temp thermostat should handle that.
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01-26-04, 06:16 PM
#9
I currently in need of a radiator. I have inquired about aluminum on over 12 reputable radiator shops. Prices are not bad at all but the problem is NO ONE WILL WORK ON ALUMINUM RAD if there is a problem or when it comes to rod out. Therefore, I bought a high efficiency 3 row radiator instead.
I guess service/repair is the downside.
I guess service/repair is the downside.
01-27-04, 12:01 PM
#12
for the big race only aluminum radiator I have, let me put it to you this way.
70*F ambient temps, driving @ 100% on the track for twenty minutes, shifting @ 9400rpms, oil was @ 190 and water @ 145-150.
TOO EFFECIENT.
water temps should be 185-200*F
thermostat's primary use is to keep the water from flowing thru the radiator during startup. not during full tilt racing.
70*F ambient temps, driving @ 100% on the track for twenty minutes, shifting @ 9400rpms, oil was @ 190 and water @ 145-150.
TOO EFFECIENT.
water temps should be 185-200*F
thermostat's primary use is to keep the water from flowing thru the radiator during startup. not during full tilt racing.
01-27-04, 08:32 PM
#13
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Originally posted by DriveFast7
for the big race only aluminum radiator I have, let me put it to you this way.
70*F ambient temps, driving @ 100% on the track for twenty minutes, shifting @ 9400rpms, oil was @ 190 and water @ 145-150.
TOO EFFECIENT.
water temps should be 185-200*F
thermostat's primary use is to keep the water from flowing thru the radiator during startup. not during full tilt racing.
for the big race only aluminum radiator I have, let me put it to you this way.
70*F ambient temps, driving @ 100% on the track for twenty minutes, shifting @ 9400rpms, oil was @ 190 and water @ 145-150.
TOO EFFECIENT.
water temps should be 185-200*F
thermostat's primary use is to keep the water from flowing thru the radiator during startup. not during full tilt racing.
Now my main concern is the mix of metals creating corrosion, especially inside the rotor housing coolant passages.
A weight reduction would be nice too.
01-27-04, 08:56 PM
#14
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
I wouldn't go with an aluminum radiator for the RX-7's because they require the use of plastic end tanks, which almost always end up cracking and leaking. Once you have a leak, nobody will work on them to reseal end tanks, and a replacement is more expensive than the standard brass radiator.
On my Q45, the replacement was $230 to replace the stock radiator, and that was discount (dealer wanted over $500 for installation and part!).
Stick with what was designed unless you're trying to build a show car. Someone here has used an E-fan as a pusher in front of the radiator, which presents a very clean appearance in the engine bay - all you see is the radiator core as a flat plate in front of the engine. HTH,
On my Q45, the replacement was $230 to replace the stock radiator, and that was discount (dealer wanted over $500 for installation and part!).
Stick with what was designed unless you're trying to build a show car. Someone here has used an E-fan as a pusher in front of the radiator, which presents a very clean appearance in the engine bay - all you see is the radiator core as a flat plate in front of the engine. HTH,
