White residue under oil cap
11-22-02, 05:09 PM
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White residue under oil cap
Hello, I have a 82 rx7 and lately when filling up oil I have been noticing alot of white grease like material building up at the top of the oil cap and shaft. I asked a "mazda rx7 speacialist" and he told me that it was normal. He told me it was condensation in my engine. I am located in canada and for the past year I have been using 20w50. After talking to the speacialist he told me that I was lucky I didnt blow my engine and 20w50 was for racing only. I was having problems starting my car when it was cold so I thought the problem was the oil. I started using 10w30 and I have done 2 oil changes since then and still see a white residue around the oil cap. It looks like bacon grease and is watery. Has anyone reading this post experienced this before? Thanks in advance.
11-22-02, 05:23 PM
#2
My wife bought me 2 RX-7s
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Unless you used 20w50 in subzero conditions, it should not cause harm to your motor. The onlty way it could is if it thickened up in the cold and caused oil starvation to the motor. In the summer, it's the way to go. In the winter, use 10w30 or 5w30 if you're so inclined. As far as the residue goes, I've never seen that before, and I live in Saskatoon, which can get pretty cold and presumably cause condensation. How does the car run? Are there any problems or driveability issues?
Matt
1979 SA22C
"Got Wankel?"
Matt
1979 SA22C
"Got Wankel?"
11-22-02, 05:27 PM
#3
Super Newbie
To a point the condensation is normal, but if you still have all the smog stuff, I'd check it out to be sure its working correctly. I didn't get any white buildup until I removed everything.
11-22-02, 05:33 PM
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Condensation is a normal by-product of combustion. Usually it get's burned off once the oil heats up enough and/or get's sucked out through the PCV system.
Make sure all your lines are connected to the nipples on the oil tube, intermediate housing, charcoal canister and PCV valve.
If everything's functioning correctly you can still get a bit of buildup especially during short trips where the oil doesn't get a chance to heat up enough. If it's only a small amount I wouldn't worry about it.
Make sure all your lines are connected to the nipples on the oil tube, intermediate housing, charcoal canister and PCV valve.
If everything's functioning correctly you can still get a bit of buildup especially during short trips where the oil doesn't get a chance to heat up enough. If it's only a small amount I wouldn't worry about it.
11-22-02, 08:53 PM
#5
Retro Rocket
Well, I don't know exactly what's causing it, but I do know the white bacon fat stuff is caused by water in the oil; condensation or whatever. I've never seen it in my '84, so I can't say if it's "normal" or not.
11-22-02, 11:54 PM
#6
EliteHardcoreCannuckSquad
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Let me take a wild guess and say your "specialist" is RX-7 Heaven? If so, run away, run far away!!!! Search the Canadian forum for horror story after horror story. Do not, I repeat, do not, let them touch your car.
The advice you received is absolutely wrong, which isn't surprising given the fact that the folks at RX-7 Heaven do more Old Milwaukee guzzling than they do thinking. I've used Castrol GTX 20W50 for 6 years with absolutely no problem. This is the oil that most of us use and have used for years, there is nothing wrong with it. HOWEVER, you should not be running this heavy an oil in colder weather, as others have mentioned.
REVHED's right, sounds like your PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system is not functioning correctly.
This problem usually occurs when people remove their emissions control equipment, but do not properly allow air to flow through the nipple on the filler neck (best method is a small breather filter).
This is not a "normal" thing. You should fix the problem as fast as you can - it will cause the inside of your oil filler neck to start rusting very quickly.
As REVHED said, run through your PCV system and make sure everything is connected and working properly.
And if you want to talk to people who actually know the first thing about RX-7's, check out the Canadian forum, there are at least a few guys in Ottawa that know their stuff and are more than willing to help out with advice. Leave the drunks at RX-7 Heaven to what they're good at, which is living in the attic above the shop because they lost their licenses from DUI and their wives divorced them.
BTW, if you'd like another hint about their shadyness, how about the fact that the main guy had the Ottawa Citizen publish that he was dead and his teenage daughters ran the shop LOL? Even though when we called the shop to see, he answered the phone. Very, very shady.
The advice you received is absolutely wrong, which isn't surprising given the fact that the folks at RX-7 Heaven do more Old Milwaukee guzzling than they do thinking. I've used Castrol GTX 20W50 for 6 years with absolutely no problem. This is the oil that most of us use and have used for years, there is nothing wrong with it. HOWEVER, you should not be running this heavy an oil in colder weather, as others have mentioned.
REVHED's right, sounds like your PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system is not functioning correctly.
This problem usually occurs when people remove their emissions control equipment, but do not properly allow air to flow through the nipple on the filler neck (best method is a small breather filter).
This is not a "normal" thing. You should fix the problem as fast as you can - it will cause the inside of your oil filler neck to start rusting very quickly.
As REVHED said, run through your PCV system and make sure everything is connected and working properly.
And if you want to talk to people who actually know the first thing about RX-7's, check out the Canadian forum, there are at least a few guys in Ottawa that know their stuff and are more than willing to help out with advice. Leave the drunks at RX-7 Heaven to what they're good at, which is living in the attic above the shop because they lost their licenses from DUI and their wives divorced them.
BTW, if you'd like another hint about their shadyness, how about the fact that the main guy had the Ottawa Citizen publish that he was dead and his teenage daughters ran the shop LOL? Even though when we called the shop to see, he answered the phone. Very, very shady.
11-23-02, 12:57 AM
#7
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White, greasy residues in oil are caused by water/coolant. Normally you should not have this at all. If a piston engine has this problem, it usally means the head gasket is gone. We can all translate that to a rotary, yes? Condensation should not cause this, as this would not contain the stuff that's in coolant. I don't want to frighten anyone, but I would really start thinking "big problem" here. Of course I don't know how bad it all is, but the problem itself is NOT NORMAL. As someone suggested: find another "specialist".
As for the oil: those numbers are refering to the temperature differences the oil can handle. The first being the lower, the second the higher temp. That's outside temperature, not engine. If you use the same oil during winter in Alaska as you use in Mexican summer, you're gonna get in trouble
So normally 20W50 shouldn't cause problems.
My advice: test/repair the PCV, if the problems stays you're in trouble.
As for the oil: those numbers are refering to the temperature differences the oil can handle. The first being the lower, the second the higher temp. That's outside temperature, not engine. If you use the same oil during winter in Alaska as you use in Mexican summer, you're gonna get in trouble
So normally 20W50 shouldn't cause problems.
My advice: test/repair the PCV, if the problems stays you're in trouble.
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11-23-02, 01:17 AM
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EliteHardcoreCannuckSquad
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can all translate that to a rotary, yes? Condensation should not cause this, as this would not contain the stuff that's in coolant. I don't want to frighten anyone, but I would really start thinking "big problem" here
As for the oil: those numbers are refering to the temperature differences the oil can handle. The first being the lower, the second the higher temp.
This should clear it up:
The number designation found on an oil container represents an oil's viscosity rating. Viscosity is a measure of the oil's thickness. Oil viscosity numbers are assigned to the oil by the S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers). The "W" rating means the oil has been rated for winter use and that the oil meets specifications for viscosity at 0 degrees Fahrenheit. Using accepted techniques, measurements are taken at specific temperatures to measure the oil's viscosity number. Oil with too low of viscosity can breakdown and lose strength at high temperatures. Oils with too high a viscosity may not pump through the engine quick enough to lubricate engine components properly at low temperatures. Engine oil should flow easily when the engine is cold and remain thick enough to protect the engine when the oil is hot. The two types of oil viscosities are single viscosity or straight-weight oils, and multi-viscosity or multi-weight oils. Single weight oils are oils that do not change in viscosity. For example, 20-weight oil would remain 20-weight oil at all temperatures, where as 10-30 would be 10-weight oil when cold and 30-weight oil once warmed to normal engine operating temperatures. Look at the lowest temperatures you will encounter in winter driving and the highest temperatures you will encounter in summer driving and base your selection on that range. The wider the viscosity spread the greater the use of polymers to achieve that viscosity spread. Polymers can break down and form deposits that can increase engine wear and decrease engine life so, generally speaking, the lower the viscosity spread the more durable the oil will be. Remember to use multi-viscosity oils with the smallest viscosity spread you can get away with for the temperature range in which the vehicle will operate.
Last edited by SilverRocket; 11-23-02 at 01:23 AM.
11-23-02, 01:25 AM
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Ooops, been away from school way too long I guess... Kind of ashamed now. Anyway, since I have no clue about fahrenheit, can't say much about it (Celsius is the man overhere). Thanks for the update. Still, I really don't like any residues in the oil...
11-23-02, 08:16 AM
#12
Originally posted by AJC13B
White gunk under an oil cap is not a good thing. Do a pressure test on your water system and see if you have any leaks...
White gunk under an oil cap is not a good thing. Do a pressure test on your water system and see if you have any leaks...
What happens is hot air/hot oil from the bottom of the oil pan comes up the tube, and the tube is naturally cooler than the motor is, it then condensates, and forms water vapor ...
11-23-02, 11:30 AM
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Thanks alot for the responces. I am going to check on my pcv system. As I do alot of stuff to my car it would not surprise me that the pcv system is not functioning. Also btw the rx7 speacialist was not from rx7 heaven. I will have to agree with silverrocket in saying the guy is a complete moron. They drink more beer than fix cars. He will give you a car for a mikey. He is definately not dead. I read that article in the citizen also. lol. I would like to do his daughter and get all the rx7 parts for free 
Anybody that reads this NEVER GO TO RX7 HEAVEN unless very desperate for a part. Do not get any work done there or buy any engines etc. He will sell you the crapiest part around. The rx7 speacialist I went to was Mazdees in toronto.
Anybody that reads this NEVER GO TO RX7 HEAVEN unless very desperate for a part. Do not get any work done there or buy any engines etc. He will sell you the crapiest part around. The rx7 speacialist I went to was Mazdees in toronto.
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